C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Lost bolt down the distributor hole

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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #21  
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I replaced the oil pressure unit, and cold the pressure is up to 20 (still low) sooooo, off to drop the pan.

As for the permatex theory - I don't think so, I used a small amount on the intake front and back and that is it. As for the idea that there is coolant in the oil - don't think so. No sign of that - the head gasket issue is solved.

The manual tells me the problems could be:
- Slow Idle speed - Nope - not that
- Incorrect of malfunctioning oil pressure switch - Don't think so
- Incorrect of malfunctioning oil pressure gage - Nope - it is new
- Improper Oil - same oil - Nope
- Diluted oil - Nope
- Oil Pump worn or dirty - Maybe
- Plugged oil filter - maybe (with a bolt?)
- Oil Pickup screen plugged - Maybe
- Excessive bearing clearance - Nope
- Cracked or porous or plugged oil galleys - Very possible
- Galley plugs missing or miss installed - Nope

So, the pan is coming off. AHHhhhhh
-
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #22  
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Bolt couldn't make it to your filter or past the pickup screen. GL hope it's a simple clogged pickup.

You did put a new oil filter on after the headgasket fix right? Oil pumps are cheap and might as well put a new one on and if you don't tac weld the pickup use one of these http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...51362/10002/-1 and make sure you check the pickup clearance from the bottom of the pan.

Last edited by BOOT77; Nov 29, 2013 at 12:44 PM. Reason: dirrrrrrrr
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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It is not the oil filter - the old one was clear and there is a new one in there now.

The pan is loose, and I am having a few issues getting it free. The pressure was at idle only, I did not push it. I have to get the two 45 degree braces out and the two studs closest to the trans. Any idea where the coolant line runs? One side (left) has a rubber hose that was easy to separate, but the other side runs above the cross member and I can not see the termination yet.

Dirt, dark and tight

Last edited by Frank-in-San-Diego; Nov 29, 2013 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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BTW dropping the pan is easier with #1 at the top of its stroke.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Coolant tube on a 90 tee's into a heater hose below the AC compressor.

Luck with your project.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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Here's a thought. you notice how the distributor or any of the priming tools have a collar down low. That's to seal off the feed for the lifters so that the oil flows up through the push rods to the rockers, etc... I wonder if it could have fallen in there somehow and is restricting the flow? Not sure but it could be possible that is where the sending unit takes its feed from as well.

I haven't been able to find an oil flow diagram to verify any of this. Also another thought is that it may have actually broken something and created leakage somewhere internally. Low pressure could also be caused by oil by passing the normal route i.e. a small hole allowing oil to drip back into the the crankcase.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Well, I have the pan out and the bolt was in the bottom of the pan. The distributor hole goes directly to the crank and it looks like the bolt rode the crank into the top of the casting and broke in half. From there I think it hit the oil pump shaft. I am going to replace the shaft and the oil pump and see if that does it. i think the shaft is bad, but I will know soon.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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arp makes a real reliable one lotta work eh? May as well pop a few caps and check bearing condition just to do it.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Baller
Here's a thought. you notice how the distributor or any of the priming tools have a collar down low. That's to seal off the feed for the lifters so that the oil flows up through the push rods to the rockers, etc... I wonder if it could have fallen in there somehow and is restricting the flow? Not sure but it could be possible that is where the sending unit takes its feed from as well.

I haven't been able to find an oil flow diagram to verify any of this. Also another thought is that it may have actually broken something and created leakage somewhere internally. Low pressure could also be caused by oil by passing the normal route i.e. a small hole allowing oil to drip back into the the crankcase.
GM dist fit nice and tight, is what I've read and some cam manufactuers reccomend you accually cut a small path on the bottom so it bleeds oil onto the dist/cam gears. MSD distributors have an o-ring on the top and bottom too seal and you are supose to prepare the block so they don't cut/break when installing the distrib. I never knew that with my 1st one and the o-rings came installed. The bottom o-ring ended up in the pickup and top is still on that dist. My new msd doesn't have the o-rings installed. MSD has a pic explaining the prep for their dist o-rings. MSD aslo reccomends leaving the bottom off to oil the gears as well I think.

FYI I have a groove cut dist and have bout 30psi warm at idle


Hope the new pump & shaft helps!

Last edited by BOOT77; Nov 30, 2013 at 03:44 PM. Reason: dirrrrrrrr
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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I dont use the orings either

This sprays a stream of oil on the gear no noticeable oil pressure loss



Dont think its needed though soon as the engine turns 1 revolution even by hand the gear will be doused in oil

Last edited by cv67; Nov 30, 2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 03:55 PM
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Good to know...
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank-in-San-Diego
it looks like the bolt rode the crank into the top of the casting and broke in half.
I'd be worried about what the bolt did to the crank and casting. And the advice to pull some caps and have a look at bearings is good. Plastigage (sp?) will let you check the bearing clearances.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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The factory sbc distributor has a oil groove it the body that is not fully machined like the aftermarket on pictured, so if the distributor body is positioned different then it could cause pressure problems. I've seen the part clogged up on poorly maintained sbc too.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #34  
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Thank you one and all - You (all) were very helpful. 50psi at cold idle, drops to 40 at warm idle, no overheating problems. I think I messed up the timing a little (no timing light) but running well. Done, completed, fix, el finnito!!

Ahhhh
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank-in-San-Diego
Thank you one and all - You (all) were very helpful. 50psi at cold idle, drops to 40 at warm idle, no overheating problems. I think I messed up the timing a little (no timing light) but running well. Done, completed, fix, el finnito!!

Ahhhh
Glad that worked out for you. That coud have been really bad.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 03:07 PM
  #36  
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that was fast!
Wanna come finish up installing my trans for me getting too old for this and its funner to watch others work
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Thanks - Actually It does not seem fast to me. I feel like I spent a lot of time at it. It was an education. I think I will put a jag down that hole next time.
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 12:57 AM
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Glad it worked out for yah.
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