Just got done getting VERY familiar with the fuel system on this car, ended up changing the fuel pump and the FP wiring harness.

So I finally got it cranked an running, thanks in large part to information in this forum. I've been reading over the tune up recommendations here. I'm wondering if I am missing anything;

Changed oil/filter
Changed coolant
New FP
New FFilter
New plugs
New plug wires
New air filter
New injectors
New FPR

New cap and rotor soon, I guess my question is since it's been sitting for 3 years is there any recommended "warm up" method, or clean out method you guys have used before?

Would really like to not have much else engine wise with this car for now, have plenty of wiring to go through, not to mention the rag top and the windows.

 

It wouldn't hurt to run a can of seafoam through the fuel, maybe even use a vacuum hose to run a can through the motor as well.

I would suggest changing the PCV valve as well, cheap part.

Check the trans and rear diff fluid as well. Wouldn't hurt to change those out.

 

I would certainly flush and refill the brake fluid. Check for any leaks at the calipers and around the master cylinder. It's possible that one or more caliper piston may be stuck. With the car off the ground, rotate each wheel to see if there is any problems with the calipers. I would also replace the flex hoses at each caliper.

Check out the tires too. If the tires are more that 5-6 years old, I would suggest replacing them regardless of the tread remaining. Dry rot would be an issue given that they have set for some time. In any event, don't drive the car very fast. Avoid hard braking, tight turns, hard acceleration and high speeds.

Do you know how old the shocks are? Might be worth getting a new set.

 

Black89Z51 Sounds good, when you say use a vacuum line and run a can through the engine what do you mean?

c4cruiser I'll add all that to my checklist, just trying to concentrate on one system at a time, starting with the engine. For all I know the shocks could be original lol. This car wasn't taken very good care of. It needs some TLC for sure.

 

Some people put Seafoam directly into the engine. The most common method is to disconnect the vacuum hose at the brake booster and put a funnel in it. Start the engine and pour in the Seafoam.

Some people let it trickle in until it's all gone. Another method is to let it trickle in until half the can is gone and then pour it in fast. The engine will stall. Pour in the rest and let it sit for half an hour. Turn the engine over by hand a few times. This lets the Seafoam run down into the combustion chambers and dissolve the deposits on the tops of the pistons. Start the engine and expect a LOT of smoke...

 

I see, thanks for the details. Seems kind of aggressive but I'll give it a shot!

 

If you haven't done so already, siphon all of the old gas out of the tank and use fresh premium grade gasoline. With new injectors, pump and filter, all you may need is fresh gas and a couple bottles of Chevron Techron additive. Get the engine running smoothly and after you're sure the brakes and tires are OK, drive the car for awhile.

 

On the first crank up I would disconnect the power lead to the distributor and turn the engine over while watching the oil pressure gauge until the engine builds pressure and oil is dispersed thru out. It shouldnt take much if everything is ok. Then fire it up.

Get an extra fuel filter when your at the auto parts picking up the little list of stuff suggested above You may have some trash in the tank or fuel lines. I like to use transmission fluid in the crank case to clean the oiling system. Just sub one quart, run it for 100-200 miles and change it to your regular oil. Tranny fluid is a light weight oil that is full of detergents and will clean up any gunk in the system without the dissolving nature of SeaFoam.

Good luck and we need pics of your project!

 

from your post sounds like you already have it running. I would let it just idle for a while watch your temp. and dont rev it to much just take things slow and easy

 

Man, lots of wiring issues with this car. Sadly the previous owner, while a decent mechanic it seems, was by no means an electrician.

I went ahead an put some Sea Foam in the fuel tank per the directions, and put some in the crank case as well, less than what the directions said.

c4cruiser The tank was dry, I put in 9 Gallons of Shell V-Power, plus the Sea Foam.


HlhnEast Good advice, I'll have to pick up a spare filter, and I'll make note of that tranny fluid in the crank trick. Wish I had known about that sooner.

I sure appreciate all the tips, just wanted to have a better feeling about running her today, got her up to temp a few times and couldn't get the fans to kick on. Spent a few hours troubleshooting that mess. Looks like the PO upgraded the fan relays to c5's? Anyway, he used all same colored wire (blue) on all the terminals, no labels of course. He also used about 7 rolls of electrical tape to re wrap the wire loom all the way back to the fans lol.

Anyway, after replacing a fuse in the dash, I found he had the relays connected to the negative post of the battery, and the fan of course was grounded to the frame. Easy fix, fans kick on at 187 degrees.

My brother in law processes used cars for a large local dealership, we drove her about 6 miles round trip, quick wash and detail, with the top down of course.

Quick question then the pics, I'm assuming my MAF sensor is suppose to have 3 very fine "filaments" and not just one around the "blade" on the inside? I have it unplugged right now, and the idle is better. Really not looking forward to buying one.


87 in a 92 body, kind of like my wife ;/

 

Wheels are on the wrong sides of the car.

 

Looking good! I've got an '87 as well and the PO must have used the same electrician yours did! I've got most of it straightened out so if you run into anything you need help with I'll be more than happy to help with any advice I can give.

 

The way this is going it won't be long before I take you up on that offer!

Looks like a new MAF sensor is next, have to wait till end of the month for that. In the meantime, when I turn the key on my oil pressure reads 80, and never changes. I didn't get to read over the FSM for the oil pressure sending unit today because I got " tied up" in a rats nest of wires.

Seems 92' headlight motor harnesses are different from 87. PO cut them all out and spliced in about 6 different colors of wire, through 3 sections of wire loom, just to find out there ain't no relays lol. There is a hole already drilled in the dash below the headlight pull ****. I started pulling new wires from the headlight motors to the dash, installed a momentary on- off- momentary on switch. Was getting ready to terminate when the clouds rolled in. Had to shut it down till next weekend.

Are these headlight motors usually pretty weak/ finicky? Seems like I'll need to get these perfectly aligned through the entire range of travel. They bind up fairly easily. On 12vdc .05 amps off my voltage generator anyway.

 

.05 amps seems WAY too low to me. I would expect them to take several amps each.

 

Thanks, my little device is no longer adjustable, I'm relying on the fixed 12vdc output for testing.

 

Looks great. ...good luck! :-)