To get a code 15 the ecm is seeing a temp of 0 or less. a 160 stat should not cause the code. my quess is a bad sensor or a bad connection at the sensor. I would still replace the stat for the simple reason for I think GM knows more about these cars and where they need to be to be running at then any boby. I still run the 195 stat and never had a problem and with you failing I would waant to get what I can back in spec.

 

Fan switch not really. Thermostat has more to do with operating temperture. The cooling fan switch merely turns fan on, does fan constantly run? OEM fuel system designed for 195-205 operating temp. Since port style fuel injection came out there really isn't and advantage to the super low operating temp. The exception would be an engine that has carburetor or that won't run properly with available fuel and trying to combat pre-ignition/detonation. I would suggest trying 180 long term or swap 195 in to get through I/M test. O2 is the bigger issue, you will not pass if car won't go into closed loop.

 

This could also be a problem with too much fuel, driving the HC's up.. you need to get this problem under control..

 

Do i have to send my chip back to pcm4less to have them change the thermostat setting when i change back to stock degree thermostat?

 

Yes, among other things.

I'm afraid you might be in for a very expensive and frustrating time.

Be prepared to remove the Headers along with the modified exhaust and also, the Catalytic Converters which might be damaged due to the high unburned fuel they were exposed to.

Here in California, Emission testing is No Joke!!!...

 

Try to focus on what O2 is doing that is the bigger problem. Car is not being driven during testing. Odds are it will get hot enough. Recalibration for higher operating temp on a street car is unlikely unless spark knock is present.

 

Mcgee, have another chip reflashed, to have it run leaner, and you will need to keep a little more heat in the engine, here in Jersey they put the older car on the dyno and simulate a certain speed. When you start playing around changing cams and tunes on the old OBD1 here in Jersey they become a problem to get thru inspection. The OBDII don't go on the rollers, they're check at idle speeds. That's why when my vette turned 25 yrs old I put the historic plates on it.
Randy

 

Does a code 14 have to come up before 15?

 

Don't worry about a chip until you get the car running on closed loop.

 

No, not necessarily.

 

Do i have to clear the codes after new o2 sensor?

 

I would disconnect the battery for about ten minutes. This clears all the learned fuel to air mixture/ratio's and any other learned data including error codes. Start the car without pressing the gas pedal and let it idle for five minutes making sure that it get's up to operating temp so it goes to closed loop. Next take it for a ride and ramp up speed wise multiple times getting more aggressive each time. Next hit the highway and hold it at a steady speed for five minutes. By this time it should have learned new mixture rates and idle rates. Now check for codes and see if they are the same or something different. This should be done each time you change any fuel related components/sensors.

The reasoning for this is it will try to run the engine with bad data learned from misleading sensors prior to you changing them. This could cause error codes which are themselves misleading. Clear everything out and give it a chance to relearn with the new part/sensors. Try not to hit the throttle for the first five minutes because that just confuses the data and makes the new learned data questionable which could lead to new errors.

I agree with everyone else. You need to get this into closed loop. You will never pass smog testing without it. Closed loop ties the injector pulse width timing to the O2 sensor readings trying for the perfect fuel mixture. The fact that the car thinks you have perfect fuel mix readings and yet at the same time it's running rich means you have a bad sensor somewhere. Most likely an O2 sensor misreading. You may have to go to a four wire self-heating O2 sensor if it is too far away from the exhaust manifold. They won't read until they reach a certain temperature and therefore won't go into closed loop. Most people with headers have to use them.

 

Changed out plugs, 4 of them had carbon on them.Changed fan switch and thermostat car runs a little over 200 degrees still getting a dtc 13 any suggestions?

 

DTC 13 is o2 sensor open which means the computer thinks it is not plugged in or not grounded.

 

I think i solved this problem now the service abs/asr lights stay on when i start moving after starting the car any suggestions?

 

Not necessarily; more likely a bad sensor.

For >12yrs I ran a 160deg t-stat with fan on and easliy passed the OH E-Check in the middle of Feb.

 

My failed when I took it on a cold day. I have my fans on a switch. Which I turn on so it wouldnt over heat. It failed because it never got hot . The next time I got it hot. And it passed. And has ever since. And I have some motor work done.

 

take all that aftermarket crap off and trade me even up for my stock stuff

 

This may not make sense but it seems to relate to abs lights at times.
Try charging up your battery. Seems if the battery is down or the alternator isn't putting out enough juice it can trigger the SES and/or abs lights.
Had the abs light on mine, charged the battery up and the light went out.

Good luck

 

Just to clarify a point, on your original post you did mean an HC reading of 252ppm not 2521 no? (the NJ standard is 220ppm).