Loose battery cable
I had my one and only underdrive and also experienced lousy power steering when trying to parallel park; never again!
The newer the car, the more gee-whiz E-stuff; the higher the draw while sitting, the more need for some kind of battery tender. I've too many stories; trust me, but I will offer one (expensive lesson) caution: two different 'tenders' on a different brand car cooked 2 batteries and a third tender would've cooked a third. I reason that the parasite draw as you call it, is above the threshold of all these tenders, indicating the battery needs charging, constantly, hence the 'cooking'. After a short overnight session I discovered both the new Schumacher, special purpose charger and a new, fully charged battery, were hot; not good. My solution for this long-term storage was to disconnect the car from the battery, leaving the charger connected.
BTW, my Vette has more than a .5VDC difference between direct read battery and the dash, but my battery is behind the pax seat (#2 cable). Also, I expect your Vette can sit for a week or so, without needing 'help', if it gets driven enough to get it recharged.
A tool I recently bought (+ for my car pals) is a accessory-plug-in LED voltage gauge. Twas primarily for a troublesome German luxomobile (no gauges) with electrical problems, but it's proven handy for monitoring or for a quickly checking other 12vdc sources; no cables to unwind and attach anywhere.
Back to you, ensure those big negative connections are clean, uncorroded and secure, especially in an area with salt issues.
Had to pull the car out of the garage yesterday to put Christmas back in the attic. Started right up after 3 days in the cold garage and charged fine. I left it running in the driveway until engine got to operating temp. Getting a tender soon. Good to have even if I decide to put stock crank pulley on down the road.
If the voltage of the battery itself is in the mid-12s and the alternator output at idle is in the low-12s, then it might not actually be charging at all. I think I mentioned it before in this thread, but we suggest typical alternator output to be in the range of about 13.7-14.7 volts.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries




Had to pull the car out of the garage yesterday to put Christmas back in the attic. Started right up after 3 days in the cold garage and charged fine. I left it running in the driveway until engine got to operating temp. Getting a tender soon. Good to have even if I decide to put stock crank pulley on down the road.




Also the charging while cruising does make up for it, but if it is charging below what the battery's should be charging at, at a minimum then it will hurt the battery.
Please correct me if I am wrong Optima.
The concern you might have is how much strain you are putting on your alternator. When Brady Basner from Powermaster Alternators and I did an experiment where we deeply-discharged my battery and measured temperature and output before and after, we saw numbers that weren't so good for alternator life. Normal operating temperature was 158°F, but after we deeply-discharged the battery and made the same drive, the temperature shot up to 299°F.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
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