Rocker arm change
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Modesto Ca
Rocker arm change
I've got a 96 mt with 97k miles.
It's time to replace the original rockers.
I don't drag race this car.
just romp on every now and then, and my rpms never get to 6000.
My question is, should into back to the self-aligning crane roller rockers or my original choice, comp pro magnums, new studs and guide plates.
Like I've mentioned, this car is not driven hard.
What would be the best for this engine?
Fyi: Haven't changed rocker studs in an aluminum head before.
Should I heat up the head a little before trying to remove the stud(s)?
Should I avoid using an impact gun to help on the removal?
Would I use never seize on the threads before installing new studs.
Any threads or advice I could find on doing this work.
The last time I did a rocker stud was 1979 on a big block w/iron heads.
Any advice and help would be appreciated
It's time to replace the original rockers.
I don't drag race this car.
just romp on every now and then, and my rpms never get to 6000.
My question is, should into back to the self-aligning crane roller rockers or my original choice, comp pro magnums, new studs and guide plates.
Like I've mentioned, this car is not driven hard.
What would be the best for this engine?
Fyi: Haven't changed rocker studs in an aluminum head before.
Should I heat up the head a little before trying to remove the stud(s)?
Should I avoid using an impact gun to help on the removal?
Would I use never seize on the threads before installing new studs.
Any threads or advice I could find on doing this work.
The last time I did a rocker stud was 1979 on a big block w/iron heads.
Any advice and help would be appreciated
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
great time to replace valve seals and springs( I just bought behive springs to replace mine) as well. I would stay with the self aligning and not go with the guide plates. the 1/6 ratio arms or 1/6, 1/5 combo. Yes, use anti-seize on anything going into aluminum.That stuff has little tiny glass ***** in ,so it works. I wouldn't let a impact anywhere near my engine. But that's just me.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Try to break the studs free first before you try heating them up. I would use heat as a last resort. Stuff the holes in your head so that nothing drips down them. Spray PB blaster on the stud threads and try to go loose, and then tight, try to work it back and forth. Take a small hammer and repeatedly tap the rocker stud right on the tip. Keep spraying PB plaster and tapping, then try to break it free. This will take a long time if they are stuck in there but you need to be patient. Remember, if you heat up aluminum, you run the risk of warping it and then you will be worse off than when you started.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Heat works fantastic for removing stubborn fasteners, and GOOD mechanics have been using heat...forever.
Same goes for impact guns. They work. I wouldn't torque the new studs in w/an impact, but I'd certainly zip the old ones out w/one.
OP, why don't you try putting a wrench on the studs and see what happens; I bet they come right out. They're in a well oiled environment, that doesn't get too hot. Should be no problem there at all.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Modesto Ca
The needle bearings from what I've read can do a lot of damage when they do go bad.
I did find one of the rockers not centered on the valve stem, made me think it would be a good investment to go to guide plates, new pushrods, etc.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
Honestly, I think your going to be doing too much work for no reason. If you not hard on the car you problay do not need to do anything.
Maybe valve springs and valve guide seals at most. Studs/rockers don't really wear out especially at 97K. LT1/LT4's's properly maintained (oil changes) can run upwards of 200K without being opened up at all.
Modern engines really don't wear much with proper lubrication. I run my car MUCH harder than you do and I would never worry about the studs or rockers. I did the springs and valve guide seals and nothing else. Everything else looked brand new at 60K.
Unless your planning HP upgrades down the road leave it alone. Stock parts are just fine for stock HP ratings. Its a SBC they are quite durable and tough engines and last forever with minimal maintenance.
Maybe valve springs and valve guide seals at most. Studs/rockers don't really wear out especially at 97K. LT1/LT4's's properly maintained (oil changes) can run upwards of 200K without being opened up at all.
Modern engines really don't wear much with proper lubrication. I run my car MUCH harder than you do and I would never worry about the studs or rockers. I did the springs and valve guide seals and nothing else. Everything else looked brand new at 60K.
Unless your planning HP upgrades down the road leave it alone. Stock parts are just fine for stock HP ratings. Its a SBC they are quite durable and tough engines and last forever with minimal maintenance.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
Stock gm rockers are know to be inconsistant, anywhere from 1.3-1.5 ratio(maybe not for LT's). I read on here many times the stock rocker studs are weak, but I agree you don't need bullet proof if you don't rev the engine above 4500-5000. That being said mine will see just 6000 and I'll use good 7/16 ARP studs, good moly roller rockers, good moly thicker pushrods, beehive springs and a stud girdle. The girdle is overkill, but I like to run zero lash and the girdle lets me not have to lash the valves all the time and that is priceless to me.
Also fyi alum rockers last about 20,000 miles or so, the alum bodys fatigue.
Also fyi alum rockers last about 20,000 miles or so, the alum bodys fatigue.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,589
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From: DrunkDefender
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 Veteran
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St. Jude Donor '07-'10
The stock stuff in an LT4 is pretty darned good. It has 10mm studs from the factory. I know its only one example but I ran mine to 100k miles with no issues. The last 50k of that was with a hotcam. I had the rev limiter set to 6700rpms and saw it hit that quite a bit, never had an issue. There was a recall on ssome of the very early LT4s for needle bearings going bad but most of them were identified and replaced.