Valve stem seal replacement time
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,426
Likes: 229
From: Pennsylvania
Valve stem seal replacement time
I'll be sending my 85 to the garage this spring after the weather breaks to have the old stock valve stem seals replaced. I get the little tell-tale puff of blue smoke at start-up after it has been warmed up and driven a while. Normal worn and dried up seals after 28 years and 44,000 miles. I was quoted about $600.00 parts and labor. Does anyone have any thoughts on this job or what type of seals I should be using? Is this a good deal on the price?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Do it your self over the winter and save.I would suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals all the way around. I replaced the ones on my 85 years ago. I had never done it before and I just took my time working on and off for a weekend. Went very smooth. I changed out the springs at the same time (had 130,00 on the engine).
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 763
Do it your self over the winter and save.I would suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals all the way around. I replaced the ones on my 85 years ago. I had never done it before and I just took my time working on and off for a weekend. Went very smooth. I changed out the springs at the same time (had 130,00 on the engine).
- not a hard job - a bit time consuming though. fel-pro is pretty much the way to go for the seals. I did the pressurized cylinder method, with a lever arm spring compressor tool. did my 85 around 130K or so...
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
After 29 years and 44,000 miles, I would just pull the heads and have them freshened up. Valveguides wear, springs get tired... The heads will be just like new (or better with some port clean up) and might last you another 29 years.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,215
Likes: 694
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Have never found a video of this being done to on an early C4 but did find seals being done on a 305. Pretty similar for those of you have done this?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
If your going to get new heads and lower end (per 383vett)....time to just take the keys out of the ignition and roll in a new C7. 
Just change the seals and springs if you have no desire to increase HP and be done with it.
If you have questions about doing this yourself, send me a PM and I will write up documentation for you.
Just change the seals and springs if you have no desire to increase HP and be done with it.
If you have questions about doing this yourself, send me a PM and I will write up documentation for you.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 763
If your going to get new heads and lower end (per 383vett)....time to just take the keys out of the ignition and roll in a new C7.
Just change the seals and springs if you have no desire to increase HP and be done with it.
If you have questions about doing this yourself, send me a PM and I will write up documentation for you.
Just change the seals and springs if you have no desire to increase HP and be done with it.
If you have questions about doing this yourself, send me a PM and I will write up documentation for you.
, but I'd forget about the ignition keys, and jack up the license plate, and slide in that new C7! -- with changing the seals, but I'd stop short on changing the springs unless I was getting into the rest of the valve train (just my 2 cents). funny how we went from valve stem seals to rebuilding his engine to buying a new corvette. let me see, $100 to $65K in 10 posts - 
to the OP - that $600 estimate sounds pretty good about now, doesn't it? -
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
It would be a smart move to replace the springs also. You will be compressing the old and now brittle springs more then they have been compressed sense new. Personal opinion I think you would be looking at trouble if you dont
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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come on now, you guys are making this more complicated, than needed. introducing new springs, could induce parasitic losses and more stress on remaining components - mostly rocker arms and cam lobes. gawd forbid the OP should install stiffer springs! if the OP is concerned about the springs, any competent machine shop can inspect and test the valve spring tension. the FSM gives dimensions, both free length and installed height, and open and closed pressures. springs should only be replaced if not within 10 lbs of specified loads per factory specifications. I would ONLY change them if they were out of spec (my 2 cents).
Last edited by Joe C; Dec 27, 2013 at 05:14 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
Not sure what labor rates are in you area 600. seems a little steep. If you are mechanically inclined it is more time consuming than difficult. Watch video see if you are comfortable trying it. Nothing wrong with enlisting help...(beer is not help) of someone more familiar with repair. It would be worthwhile to replace spark plugs since you will have them out anyway. I would also install the vinton intake seals on all 16 guides along with the little o rings in the 2nd groove of valves. If your a going take it to someone or a shop to do make sure they actually know what they are doing....I don't know why but there are "mechanic"s who claim to know but can't seem to do it right.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
come on now, you guys are making this more complicated, than needed. introducing new springs, could induce parasitic losses and more stress on remaining components - mostly rocker arms and cam lobes. gawd forbid the OP should install stiffer springs! if the OP is concerned about the springs, any competent machine shop can inspect and test the valve spring tension. the FSM gives dimensions, both free length and installed height, and open and closed pressures. springs should only be replaced if not within 10 lbs of specified loads per factory specifications. I would ONLY change them if they were out of spec (my 2 cents).
never said a thing about heaver springs. But age alone will weaken and break down the metal. I am less concerned about pressure then hair line cracks, break down in the metal after 28 yrs. I gave a honest opinion for the problems Iv seen on older SB. For the peace of mind and being right there having the springs out and for a add 100.00 bucks or so I would do it. just my opinion
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
You know Willie (383vette) that there is talk of dividing California into 6 States. If he thinks a little bigger than just a ranch...he could by the right amount of acreage and be a land Barron and perhaps Governor. 
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,426
Likes: 229
From: Pennsylvania
I'll definitely have them take a close look at the springs for any signs of wear. If they do find anything wrong with them, I'll replace them with the correct factory springs. Nothing heavier. I don't have any time that I can dedicate to doing this project myself. I'm bringing it to a shop that I've used and trust. I'm very picky with this car. They seemed to think it would take about six to seven hours to complete. The "50 something year old" mechanic there doing my work has a few hundred thousand dollars invested in his Mopar muscle cars that he built himself and races occasionally. He knows what he's doing for sure. I was interested in any preferred name brand (GM?) or specific type of seals anyone else is satisfied with. I guess $600.00 sounds like a fair price for this job according to what responses I've gotten so far. Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL