'89 rear sus upgrades..advice?
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 204
Likes: 3
From: Bristol Rhode Island
'89 rear sus upgrades..advice?
My 60k mile base softride sus coupe is undergoing VERY extensive resto/mods.The NEW L98 and 700/r4 are basically stock.Baer drilled/slotted rotors/pads all around/w reman..calipers.The front suspension is new/w bushes,ball joints,tie rods,Bilsteins,wheel bearings,Powdercoated engine chassis cradle,New VBP SPORT spring and VBP 32mm sway bar.I am moving to the rear now..I intend on VERY thoughroughly refinishing the AL components.NEW wheel bearings,bushes,U-joints.i intend to install VBP SPORT spring and VBP 26MM sway bar.I am CLOSELY looking at VBP package consisting of their SMART struts/Trailing/Toe rod combo.I never want to go back in to correct anything on this SPORTY little car so i want to do it ALL once.
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Is there anything i've missed or gotten wrong?
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[/IMG]Is there anything i've missed or gotten wrong?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
I went with the Banski Heim Link Rods. The Heim Links are Teflon coated and are quieter plus never need lubed. You can order rubber boots also to help keep junk from getting in. For shocks I went with QA-1's single adjustables. They can be adjusted by turning a small **** at their base and don't have to be removed to set them up. For brakes I bought the BrakeMotive set of slotted disc and pads for a great price. For wheel bearings I went with WBI tapered bearings in the rear and Timken in the front both at low pricing from the net. While your in there don't forget new Teflon coated axle washers and U-Joints. DannysDriveshaft.com has great pricing on Spicer U-Joint kits with new caps and bolts. PartsGeek.com has remanufactured Calipers for less then fifty bucks each plus went with SpeedBleeders and stainless wrapped brake hoses. I cleaned everything with Simple Green and ScotchBrite pads. I didn't go crazy like some guys but it did clean up nice. Here are some pics:
Last edited by Klyde; Dec 31, 2013 at 12:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 204
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From: Bristol Rhode Island
"Teflon axle washers"?? Are those the big washer behind the axle bearing where the axle spindle slides thru the bearing bore? With the inside diameter lip?
Last edited by DucXL; Dec 30, 2013 at 09:31 PM.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
They are Teflon "coated" washers and are located on the axle spline on the inner side of the bearing. On my 96' they have a small step stamped on them and should only be mounted one way. When they wear down they cause a clicking sound when going slow. You should coat these and the axle spline with never-seize to help the spline and bearing hub slide around easier. You can get them at a local dealer or I got mine from GMPartsDirect.com.
Part: 14076924*
Category: Rear Wheel Hub/Knuckle
Description: WASHER
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $4.59
Quantity: 2
Ext.Price: $9.18
Core Charge: $0.00
Part: 14076924*
Category: Rear Wheel Hub/Knuckle
Description: WASHER
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $4.59
Quantity: 2
Ext.Price: $9.18
Core Charge: $0.00
Last edited by Klyde; Dec 31, 2013 at 12:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 204
Likes: 3
From: Bristol Rhode Island
THANKS! Great advice.I thought those were the washers you meant.Last night i immersed my "Knuckles" in our hot tank a few hours then used Scotch brite/w EXCELLENT effect.I really like your setup.and will look at the Banski products.Dunno how the greaseable joints compare/w Teflon joints for longevity..More stuff to consider
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
The Banski with the Teflon joints are mechanically quieter. I can not tell they are there other then the fantastic change in rear end handling. I also did the rest of the mounts in poly. Coat all your polys in never-seize heavily to avoid squeaks.
