remote mount turbo setups
#42
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
So i should be getting my car back Monday evening from the exhaust shop. I had them run the hot side and fabricate the mounting bracket for the turbo. After this I can run my oil lines and fabricate the cold side.
Now my question is what gap spark plugs should I get... I have heard about using colder plugs for boosted motors but I don't quite understand what that means exactly
Now my question is what gap spark plugs should I get... I have heard about using colder plugs for boosted motors but I don't quite understand what that means exactly
Last edited by Impala Balko; 06-06-2014 at 11:25 PM.
#44
Melting Slicks
So i should be getting my car back Monday evening from the exhaust shop. I had them run the hot side and fabricate the mounting bracket for the turbo. After this I can run my oil lines and fabricate the cold side.
Now my question is what gap spark plugs should I get... I have heard about using colder plugs for boosted motors but I don't quite understand what that means exactly
Now my question is what gap spark plugs should I get... I have heard about using colder plugs for boosted motors but I don't quite understand what that means exactly
You may want a colder plug, again, depending on boost. Basically a "colder" spark plug has a shorter insulator to firing tip length allowing it to cool quicker then the longer insulator "hot" one. Boost will make the combustion temperatures rise. If the spark plug gets hot enough, it can start to ignite the mix before it sparks. (detonation) If you use too cold of a plug, you can foul the plug with rich mixtures or oil. I wouldn't recommend any of the "fancy" plugs either.
#46
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well I have the tail pipe assembly, wastegate, oil feed line run (just need to tap the block), and the scavenge pump is mounted but I just need to build a more secure mount.
#47
Melting Slicks
What are you using for a scavaging pump? From the pics it looks like a basic diaphragm pump for a differential cooler or similar. You need to determine what the flow rate of that pump is.
I have tried something similar on my car before I went with a more traditional system and I had to limit the oil flow to the turbo to let the pump keep up and it killed the turbo after a short period of time. If I didn't limit the flow it over ran the pump and started coming past the turbo seals.
And as the oil temperature changes the oil flow into the turbo will also change. Oil will flow much more when it is warmed up. If you look at the STS oil pump it is a pretty heavy duty pump. I believe it is not a diaphragm pump and flows a good deal.
As an experiment you may want to disconnect the turbo drain line and put a bucket under it and then put the pump hose in the bucket and just see if the pump will keep up with the oil draining into the bucket. Make the bucket is spotless before you start of course.
I have tried something similar on my car before I went with a more traditional system and I had to limit the oil flow to the turbo to let the pump keep up and it killed the turbo after a short period of time. If I didn't limit the flow it over ran the pump and started coming past the turbo seals.
And as the oil temperature changes the oil flow into the turbo will also change. Oil will flow much more when it is warmed up. If you look at the STS oil pump it is a pretty heavy duty pump. I believe it is not a diaphragm pump and flows a good deal.
As an experiment you may want to disconnect the turbo drain line and put a bucket under it and then put the pump hose in the bucket and just see if the pump will keep up with the oil draining into the bucket. Make the bucket is spotless before you start of course.
Last edited by mn_vette; 07-03-2014 at 04:06 PM.
#48
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What are you using for a scavaging pump? From the pics it looks like a basic diaphragm pump for a differential cooler or similar. You need to determine what the flow rate of that pump is.
I have tried something similar on my car before I went with a more traditional system and I had to limit the oil flow to the turbo to let the pump keep up and it killed the turbo after a short period of time. If I didn't limit the flow it over ran the pump and started coming past the turbo seals.
And as the oil temperature changes the oil flow into the turbo will also change. Oil will flow much more when it is warmed up. If you look at the STS oil pump it is a pretty heavy duty pump. I believe it is not a diaphragm pump and flows a good deal.
As an experiment you may want to disconnect the turbo drain line and put a bucket under it and then put the pump hose in the bucket and just see if the pump will keep up with the oil draining into the bucket. Make the bucket is spotless before you start of course.
I have tried something similar on my car before I went with a more traditional system and I had to limit the oil flow to the turbo to let the pump keep up and it killed the turbo after a short period of time. If I didn't limit the flow it over ran the pump and started coming past the turbo seals.
And as the oil temperature changes the oil flow into the turbo will also change. Oil will flow much more when it is warmed up. If you look at the STS oil pump it is a pretty heavy duty pump. I believe it is not a diaphragm pump and flows a good deal.
As an experiment you may want to disconnect the turbo drain line and put a bucket under it and then put the pump hose in the bucket and just see if the pump will keep up with the oil draining into the bucket. Make the bucket is spotless before you start of course.
#49
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Quick Boost/Vacuum Reference question.... Can I just get my boost/vacuum reference for my Blow Off Valve/boost gauge off of any manifold vacuum source or do I have to use a specific one. The write up that I have been following states to use the brake booster hose but I figured it would be way easier to just use one directly off the intake manifold like the one the cruise control module gets its vacuum source off of.... Is this correct?
#50
Melting Slicks
I would pull the BOV vacuum line off of the intake manifold directly. When you close your throttle and you get good vacuum in the intake it will help pop the BOV open. I wouldn't try to add it to another function, just make a new tap on the intake(remove one of the plugged ports)
The brake booster may be suggested since it is a larger tube from the manifold and it is always going to be there on any application.
#51
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That pump definitely looks like it will do the job.
I would pull the BOV vacuum line off of the intake manifold directly. When you close your throttle and you get good vacuum in the intake it will help pop the BOV open. I wouldn't try to add it to another function, just make a new tap on the intake(remove one of the plugged ports)
The brake booster may be suggested since it is a larger tube from the manifold and it is always going to be there on any application.
I would pull the BOV vacuum line off of the intake manifold directly. When you close your throttle and you get good vacuum in the intake it will help pop the BOV open. I wouldn't try to add it to another function, just make a new tap on the intake(remove one of the plugged ports)
The brake booster may be suggested since it is a larger tube from the manifold and it is always going to be there on any application.
#52
Melting Slicks
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/...mp_Manual.html
#53
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Here's a link to the manual for the pump. It says to use a 10A fuse.
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/...mp_Manual.html
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/...mp_Manual.html
#54
Melting Slicks
How do you have it wired up? Are you using a relay, switch, or what?
As a sanity check you may want to take a 12V battery and wire it directly to the motor with a 10A fuse. This will let you know if the wiring is a problem or the motor has a problem. If the wiring is ok then you'll need to give turbowerx a call.
If this blows the fuse then you've got motor problems.
Batt+--------10AFuse--------Motor+==Motor- ----Batt-
As a sanity check you may want to take a 12V battery and wire it directly to the motor with a 10A fuse. This will let you know if the wiring is a problem or the motor has a problem. If the wiring is ok then you'll need to give turbowerx a call.
If this blows the fuse then you've got motor problems.
Batt+--------10AFuse--------Motor+==Motor- ----Batt-
#55
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
How do you have it wired up? Are you using a relay, switch, or what?
As a sanity check you may want to take a 12V battery and wire it directly to the motor with a 10A fuse. This will let you know if the wiring is a problem or the motor has a problem. If the wiring is ok then you'll need to give turbowerx a call.
If this blows the fuse then you've got motor problems.
Batt+--------10AFuse--------Motor+==Motor- ----Batt-
As a sanity check you may want to take a 12V battery and wire it directly to the motor with a 10A fuse. This will let you know if the wiring is a problem or the motor has a problem. If the wiring is ok then you'll need to give turbowerx a call.
If this blows the fuse then you've got motor problems.
Batt+--------10AFuse--------Motor+==Motor- ----Batt-
#56
Redirecting...???
here very good side. about turbo charger . is all you need to know about turbo. you can download step by step instructions. and is free
http://www.junkyardturbos.com/index.php
http://www.junkyardturbos.com/index.php
#57
Burning Brakes
#58
For now you can find the information here http://web.archive.org/web/201310050....com/index.php but there was no free download you had to buy it.
#59
Burning Brakes
Thanks ChevyOwner! I have a '76 and installed a '95 LT1/4L60e, which gave it a good spankin', but a turbo would just Kick It's ***! Probably will get the "General Turbo" and "F-body Rear Mount" books/downloads. Hopefully, I'll make this a project someday, but will be some good reading, none-the-less!
#60