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If it still doesn't start, it could be the 4 pin plug on the distributor or pickup inside the dist.
I'd start with the "pole piece" in the distributor. A module also? Maybe or maybe not but a check of the wiring is a must. A pole piece will generally show corrosion at the connector but not always.
Not sure I understand pole piece, the cap, rotor & coil are new, I changed out the ICM with another one I had, made no difference on no hot start. Car runs fine if started cold no stalling or missing drive it 30 miles to offce no issues. I am going to recheck injector signal pulse again when hot
Not sure I understand pole piece, the cap, rotor & coil are new, I changed out the ICM with another one I had, made no difference on no hot start. Car runs fine if started cold no stalling or missing drive it 30 miles to offce no issues. I am going to recheck injector signal pulse again when hot
Pole piece (pickup-coil) are synonymous and I don't see where you mention you've done anything with it. I quickly scanned the thread but I didn't see it mentioned.
GM 1977207 would do an '87 stock distributor and it's failure is generally only "heat related"!
This was a quick image search and I believe is correct:
Joe I have tested the injector harness with light I get no signal when hot that would be my evidence, is all I can say,when it's running I get a signal therefore there is a problem. The FSM dose not fully address a fail to start when hot believe me I have read it many times
post #9 or so, does tach show rpm while cranking" this is from the FSM chart, not a WAG.
the FSM treats all crank won't run the same, yes. obviously, when it is running, there is no need to check the signal.
I was having the same problem ended up being a loose connection at the maf sensor one of the contacts in the plug was not making good contact with the sensor prongs. When cold it was fine, when running it was fine but when I went in a gas station and came right back out it would not start. Wait a half hour or so and it would. Probably not your problem but worth checking.
OK maybe I’m crazy, maybe I’m delusional, maybe I have been sucked up into the way-back machine. Tonight I drive the car back home 30 miles pull into garage try to restart it dose wait 15 minutes starts again try again in 15 minutes starts again starts, 3 times within the hour. I am clueless although I will thank the Great C4 in the sky for dare I say fixing whatever was wrong. Thanks to all on here also I will let you know if it stays this way. Maybe it just needed some miles after sitting so long I will never not drive it again.
Just a short up date yesterday I changed out the damper which was causing fast bleed off in the fuel line, now pressure holds 4 hours before bleed off to around zero. I also had a spare ICM here so I switched that out the old one had no dielectric grease under it, Ohm check injectors hot all checked out around 17 .1 - 17.5 I did find a bad connector on injector harness was loose no change on no start. Yesterday I also replaced cap and rotor was about 7 years old . I still have to reset IAC and base idle, will get some new plugs also. Runs great but still hard to start when hot after sitting. I just checked spark again on no start color is orange blue.
I had similar problem with Jeep, turns out the CPS was failing when warm and sending faulty data to ecm. Had spark ok just wasn't properly timed. Maybe worth a shot?
Good luck with it staying fixed, seldom works that way for me. Things wait till the worst possible time and fail again. At least it starts reliably when cool.
Well I really didn't drive it for about 1 1/2 years so it will take a while before I fully trust it. However I have now gone through most of it so we will see how it goes. Cold starts were never the problem.