Cutting an in or so off Id think wouldnt affect anything at all esp reliability wise. Doesnt make as much a difference as youd think until the runner gets real short. Opinions may vary
Only get so much through the stock heads/exh anyway

 

Change of plans, decided it would be better to convert to a carb
my budget is $775, this is what i have picked so far

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...50vs/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-2429
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...4/applications



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1423/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...50vs/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gtr-4060855


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-072
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...px?Item=6500-R




http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70239/overview/

750 carb for future engine build up, will probably jet it down for the time being
bracket for throttle valve cable and hopefully be able to use cruise control, if the bracket fits correctly
3/8" NPT fittings are for fuel pressure regulator
The wideband air/fuel sensor i intend to use with the existing O2 sensors for better carb tuning
The belt is for the AIR pump delete
I think i will need a fuel pressure regulator since i am converting to carb and have a electric fuel pump
The hose is if i need any vacuum line and for fuel since i will probably have to reword atleast part of the existing system
I am unsure if i can use the current computer controlled distributor so i picked one incase, if i do not need it or anything else here please say so
The valve covers are because one of the stock valve covers has a crack
The break in additive is just to add some ZDDP to the oil


I am not going to be changing the headgaskets and cam now due to a shortage of funds, and the fact that i will likely see similar gains from changing to a carb anyway

One of my concerns is that will all of my functions of the multifunction display work, such as oil press/temp coolant temp and everything else, i know that the MPG meter might not work since it may be linked to the fuel delivery system or it might just read off the tank float and i am concerned that nothing connected to the ECU will work since i plan to leave it in to control all of the electronics
Not going to change the headgaskets (for higher compression) or change the cam at this time but will do at a later date

If i am missing or have anything i dont need there, please say so and any advice would be helpful

 

Shortening the runners rises the RPM that the intake will contribute to peak tq and hp, but in practice, it won't make a meaningful difference if you shorten it an inch or two. My CFI with a SBC 400, 224/234 cam, ported intake, bored TB's headers, larger injectors and other changes, made ~300 hp and it repeatedly got 24 mpg on the highway. Of course, I didn't go backward to carb technology so....



Ha ha ha...that's good. You don't have enough money to buy a die grinding bit and a drill bit extension....but you're going to spend $775 on a carb?? I'm pretty sure that the grinding route would have been a lot cheaper. You're going to spend all that dough and end up with a ~220 hp dog. You'd get more power from porting the stock intake (all the way), adding a cam, and spend hundreds less in the process, but good luck!

 

 

probably would be cheaper to continue porting the intake, or even buy a renegade intake but in all honesty im tired of screwing with crossfire and its really pissing me off

plus the carb helps with my long term plan which is to buy a manual third gen camaro and swap the 350 from my C4 in and swap a 5.3 LM7 or 6.0 LQ4/LQ9 Vortec into my C4
Of course a T5 thirdgen would die very quickly behind a 350 but i would be looking hopefully for a early saginaw/muncie/T10 4spd third gen, or if worse comes to worse i could always swap in a T10 or build up the T5

 

decided to use this AFR guage and this fuel line instead

what i am trying to find out is if this fitting will work between the carb and the fuel pressure regulator so that i could have a fuel pressure test fitting

using this carb
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...50vs/overview/
and this regulator

 

Huh. You know, Crossfire isn't that complicated and it's not hard to work on at all. IDK what "screwing with" you're doing, but it shouldn't be much. As for a T5 not lasting behind a 350...all depends on how you drive it. Anyone can break anything if they're a big enough tool...I ran a T5 behind my 400 for YEARS and 100's of passes in my Trans Am. It worked great for me. Well it sounds like you've got a plan, and you're off and running.

 

im just tired of dealing with crossfire, it has always run extremely rich in this car to the point that it was stripping the carbon out of the tailpipe and spewing black flakes out the exhaust and getting 14-15MPG highway even stock, and after i replaced the O2 sensors, to my knowledge the crossfire ECU cant be tuned, parts for it are expensive and most dont result in much power gains, it stalls if i let it idle too long and then hit the gas hard, even after replacing all vaccum lines and the MAP sensor it idled between 1100-1400RPM which is the main reason i want to get rid of everything crossfire that i can

as for T5s, i want it to be able to sustain hard launches with 3.73 rear gears and most T5s will not be able to do that, especially non WC T5s

 

You need to run a return style fpr like a 4309 Mallory. 750 carb way too rich. Change front jets to .100 , rear jets to .095 and use .070x047 rods for base setting. Use a 1/2" carb to intake insulator to prevent fuel percolating. Use your new non computer hei. If you are going to eliminate your ac compressor use a dorman 34157 delete kit with a 87.5" serp belt.

 

Well...I guess if you can't diagnose some basic issues, you're better off to get rid of it. Yikes though. It's a damn simple system. Mostly, it's obvious that you're lacking information; how to diagnose, that "parts are expensive" (I wonder what parts those are??)...

As for the T5...I jsut TOLD you how it is w/that trans. I've done sustained launches w/one (a non WC version) and that was behind a 400 w/a 3:45 gear which is harder on the trans than a 3.73 gear. I guess that IDK what your definiteion of "hard launches" is, but I was 1.8 60'ing mine. You won't be doing any better than that w/your stock cam/heads 350, that is for sure. You CAN bust anything, or you can drive what you have to success. It doesn't seem like you would be "that guy" though.

 

i have diagnosed all of the issues as far as i can, its no longer giving me any codes from the ALDL and the root cause of the problem is the throttle bodies are worn and need to be rebuilt and have a lot of slack

as far as what parts are expensive, the throttle bodies, and the intake manifold along with the ECU, i need to replace/rebuild the TBIs, i can continue porting this intake its a pain in the *** and i wont see as much gains as i would with an aftermarket manifold anyway, and i would like to run a aftermarket ECU that can be tuned

i have an 87 Z52 C4 also and other than minor issues it has been completely solid and reliable and far easier to work on and deal with, i also had a G-Body Grand Prix that had a carbed 350 and T5 swapped in and the 350 in it was extremely reliable and far easier to work on than this 84 C4, but after having to rebuild the T5 3 times after stripping 3rd twice and finally breaking the input shaft i am very wary of dealing with another T5 and i dont want to spend a ton on full aftermarket internals

as for when i pull this engine, i will certainly not be leaving the stock heads on, most likely i will put vortec heads and a carbed vortec intake on it

and in my 87 C4 i have pulled 1.8 60' launches and 13.4s 1/4s
along with mid-high 12s when i had my grand prix




Pic is of the 87, i did not put the camaro wheels or later body on it
that was done by the previous owner who also put seats from an 08 in it

 

I'll respond to a couple things point by point...

You can get TB's from a junk yard, GM 4 cylinder cars from the '80's and use them on your CFI lid with a little adapting. Cheap.
If you port the intake correctly (fully) You WILL see gains as great as an aftermarket intake and beyond. Certainly, it will easily match the performer intake that you have selected above.
Last, You can run any aftermarket ECM on there that you could on your '87. That it is a CFI doesn't make it incapable of running off the same ECM that any '80's GM Speed density car would run off of.



I had my CFI car for 12 years and it was totally reliable. Break-downs included a vacuum leak and a fuel pump. As for the T5...i did say that "you can bust anything". Being that you're the guy that does bust T5's, you are probably right to steer clear of them going forward.


So why waste your money on a regular performer intake now then??



Right...but we were talking about a stock cammed, stock head '84 with a performer intake and a carb here. That is a 220hp wonder and you won't be running any 13.4's, 12', or 1.8 60's with that thing, that is for sure.



Those wheels look retarded with that offset. I hope you've gotten rid of them by now....

I have to wonder why you posted in the first place; you were looking for porting/upgrade advice, now you've got several build versions planned, so it really doesn't seem like you need any help.

 

as for repairing the CFI, i probably could and it would most likely be cheaper and may or may not result in better performance but the issue is i can either spend $525 on a renegade intake, or finish the stock one but either way i would end up carbing the motor down the line regardless and i would still have to buy all the parts except the performer intake anyway

as for the wheels on the 87, the original reason i bought the 84 was actually to use as a parts car for the 87 since the 84 is pristine both inside and out, it literally does not even have a scratch in the paint anywhere and the seats are like new and i wanted to put the built TPI from the 87 in it but i decided i would rather have 2 decent C4s that can be improved upon rather than just a single great one
here is a series of pics of the 84 http://imgur.com/a/pk7o0

originally when i started this thread i actually intended on finishing the CFI manifold but the more i work on it the more it seems pointless and i end up spending a tremendous amount of time to save $133 (the only part that wont end up getting transferred when i pull this motor is the manifold)

as for the different builds, its very simple
i plan to buy a third gen camaro in the next 6 months, and i want a manual with a 350, but of course all manuals are 305s
so i will swap the 350 from my 84 C4 into it and build up whatever transmission it has or swap in a super T10, and wiring harnesses are both expensive and a lot of work so i would end up carbing it anyway and spend the same amount of money (except $133)
i have always wanted a LS engine in both of my C4s so when i remove the 350 from the 84 it gives me a great opportunity to swap in a 5.3 LM7 (or 6.0 LQ4/LQ9 if i can find one for cheap enough) which i will keep the stock ecu of the 5.3/6.0 and install it