Oil leaking
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 50
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From: West Columbia SC
Oil leaking
It appears that my valve cover gaskets are both leaking a little bit of oil, as it starts smoking on both sides. My question is how easy to replace these gaskets and what does everyone prefer for replacement. I called the shop and they said FO hundred, I was like yeah whatever. I know its usually a few bolts and clean up the old junk, and replace with the new one.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
It is not too difficult. Just many things to move out of the way to get to the driver's side. I also believe the 86 also has the EGR cross over tube on the passenger's side that is a PITA to remove and re-install. It uses a crush ring around the pipe flange to hole it in place.
I suggest that you use Fel-Pro gaskets.
I suggest that you use Fel-Pro gaskets.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: West Columbia SC
It is not too difficult. Just many things to move out of the way to get to the driver's side. I also believe the 86 also has the EGR cross over tube on the passenger's side that is a PITA to remove and re-install. It uses a crush ring around the pipe flange to hole it in place.
I suggest that you use Fel-Pro gaskets.
I suggest that you use Fel-Pro gaskets.
Ok, that sounds good. Now is anything that will need to be replaced when removing? This crush ring, is that something that is easily removed and replaced.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 50
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From: West Columbia SC
Well hope not, I just ordered the gasket set, and will pick up today. I may start tearing in to it this weekend, and hope I get it back together.
If anyone else has any hints,tips or tricks please let me know.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
.Also when tightening the bolts on the valve covers, just go down until the bolts touch, then go about a half turn more.. The mistake alot of guys make is, they over tighten the valve cover bolts deforming the gaskets causing a leak. If you do it this way and you get a small leak, wipe off the oil, tighten them all another 1/8th to 1/4 turn, and run the car again to see if it leaks.Taking the bolts down a small amount at a time will guaranty you don't deform the gaskets while sealing the valve covers.....Good luck.....WW
Last edited by WW7; Mar 7, 2014 at 08:13 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 50
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From: West Columbia SC
ok I am hoping I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. I of course have all the bolts removed and the valve covers loose, but of course it is all being a pita. What needs to be removed from each side to get these damn things off. I see there is some metal tube over the valve cover on the passenger side. It has a reagular screw head clamp on the bottom, but it seems to be at an angle that is hard to get to. Also I was trying to remove the windshield wiper motor cover but it seems to be unable to be removed without removing a bunch of stuff. Any help would be great.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Anaheim CA
Well, since I just did this tonight...
On the driver's side you have to back off on the bottom bolt on the A.I.R. pump (I cut mine off years ago so I don't have to do this any more). The rear of the valve cover hits the spark plug wire bracket on the back of the head. The first time I removed mine I pried the valve cover to the rear enough to clear the rear of the A.I.R. pump bracket. Be aware that there is a metal baffle for the PCV valve inside the valve cover that hits the rocker arms and limits how much you can move it.
On the passenger side, unbolt the EGR tube at the intake manifold. It is corrugated flexible tubing and will bend out of the way. You do NOT have to remove the Oetiker clamp at the bottom. You need to remove the "steam tube" rubber hose also. I have to take the top two studs out (inverse Torx size E6) to allow the valve cover to move far enough up and to the rear to clear the hose behind the AC compressor for the A.I.R. injection. i have taken the valve cover studs out with a small socket, but after rounding a few off I bought new studs and an inverse Torx socket set.
On the driver's side you have to back off on the bottom bolt on the A.I.R. pump (I cut mine off years ago so I don't have to do this any more). The rear of the valve cover hits the spark plug wire bracket on the back of the head. The first time I removed mine I pried the valve cover to the rear enough to clear the rear of the A.I.R. pump bracket. Be aware that there is a metal baffle for the PCV valve inside the valve cover that hits the rocker arms and limits how much you can move it.
On the passenger side, unbolt the EGR tube at the intake manifold. It is corrugated flexible tubing and will bend out of the way. You do NOT have to remove the Oetiker clamp at the bottom. You need to remove the "steam tube" rubber hose also. I have to take the top two studs out (inverse Torx size E6) to allow the valve cover to move far enough up and to the rear to clear the hose behind the AC compressor for the A.I.R. injection. i have taken the valve cover studs out with a small socket, but after rounding a few off I bought new studs and an inverse Torx socket set.