When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just installed a ported intake (Stage 3), American Racing Headers (1 7/8") long tubes, Xpipe.
The headers I ordered were supposed to have the EGR tube, but shipped with out it. I thought about removing the EGR and adjusting the tune according.
To block off the EGR, could I just leave the actual EGR bolted to the top of the intake (under the plenum), and just use the EGR block off plate for the port in the intake that would connect the tube from the exhaust to intake? Or would I need to remove the EGR too and block that off as well?
I was assuming there is a passage inside the intake that travels from the actual EGR to the port in the rear of the intake that the tube to manifold bolts too.
Also until I get my tune from "91tpiman" here in the forums, is there a trick using that sensor that is threaded into that tube (temp sensor?) that connects the exhaust to intake to not throw a code?
I ran with the EGR valve on the manifold and unconnected to anything else with no apparent issues. Computer scan has no codes stored either. I cant guarantee the same no codes for you but until you decide what to do I would leave it be. I finally removed my EGR valve when I redid my head gaskets and fabbed a block off plate. There are some nice ones on eBay for about $15 and I wish I could have found the one I bought when everything was accessible.
To block off the EGR, could I just leave the actual EGR bolted to the top of the intake and just use the EGR block off plate for the port in the intake that would connect the tube from the exhaust to intake?
Sealing the port at rear is purely cosmetic.
If the valve is in the closed position then that is all you need
You can get block off plates from TPIS for about $12.00.. They make both the plate for the egr hole and the one for the rear near the distributor... As Vettoz says, you don't really need it , but it looks better having a plate , then having an open hole there..When my tuner deleted the egr in my tune, that's when I installed the Dewitt's radiator and high speed fan and had my fan on/ fan off temps changed to a lower setting... I was afraid of getting pinging with the slightly higher cylinder temps after eliminating the egr...With the new radiator , new fan, I lowered my running temps down to around 180 to 183 degrees, eliminating any possibility of pinging, especially in the heat of summer........WW
You can get block off plates from TPIS for about $12.00.. They make both the plate for the egr hole and the one for the rear near the distributor... As Vettoz says, you don't really need it , but it looks better having a plate , then having an open hole there..When my tuner deleted the egr in my tune, that's when I installed the Dewitt's radiator and high speed fan and had my fan on/ fan off temps changed to a lower setting... I was afraid of getting pinging with the slightly higher cylinder temps after eliminating the egr...With the new radiator , new fan, I lowered my running temps down to around 180 to 183 degrees, eliminating any possibility of pinging, especially in the heat of summer........WW
I already installed the cooler fan switch, thermostat and have the 2nd fan. My temps never see anything higher then 190, normal temp around like 180. I am gonna leave the EGR under the plenum, and cap off the open port in the back of the intake.
I already installed the cooler fan switch, thermostat and have the 2nd fan. My temps never see anything higher then 190, normal temp around like 180. I am gonna leave the EGR under the plenum, and cap off the open port in the back of the intake.
Ill be blocking off my EGR pipe at the exhaust (mainly because of an exhaust leak sound at the pipe/exhaust connection) and putting the cover over the hole in the manifold also. Did you have any issues with codes or performance issues? I have the upgraded radiator and cooling fans reprogrammed already. I also have the smog pump delete kit installed. Did you leave the egr temp sensor plugged in or did you unclip it and remove totally?
Ill be blocking off my EGR pipe at the exhaust (mainly because of an exhaust leak sound at the pipe/exhaust connection) and putting the cover over the hole in the manifold also. Did you have any issues with codes or performance issues? I have the upgraded radiator and cooling fans reprogrammed already. I also have the smog pump delete kit installed. Did you leave the egr temp sensor plugged in or did you unclip it and remove totally?
I drove the car for a week before the EGR was tuned out. I left the vacuum lines, EGR and I disconnected the exhaust EGR temp sensor. I plugged just the rear port that travels to the exhaust and had no trouble codes or Service Engine light.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Someone here had trouble getting his parts from 91tpiman. I hope you paid by credit card just in case you got stiffed too.
You can really clean up the engine bay by removing the AIR diverter valve and the "smog" pump.
I got my kit from Corvettemods here on the Forum. Gives you a little more bling and a lot more room for maintenance and cleaning.
Here is the pic of the kit just after installation:
Last edited by corvetteronw; Mar 31, 2014 at 07:51 PM.
That looks great Ron. A little bird told me someone took care of Mr Soden's programming issues and he's up and running just fine. He can leave everything intact, and because it's no longer calling for either EGR, or AIR neither needs to be removed. However, it would be wise to install a EGR block off plate at some point to eliminate any chance of a carbon filled valve that could possibly create a small vacuum leak. Removing any unused vacuum hoses will clean things up, and lessen any chance of future hose cracks and leaks also.
That looks great Ron. A little bird told me someone took care of Mr Soden's programming issues and he's up and running just fine. He can leave everything intact, and because it's no longer calling for either EGR, or AIR neither needs to be removed. However, it would be wise to install a EGR block off plate at some point to eliminate any chance of a carbon filled valve that could possibly create a small vacuum leak. Removing any unused vacuum hoses will clean things up, and lessen any chance of future hose cracks and leaks also.
I did receive the tune, but idle was really poor. MrWillys was able to provide another tune which was on point and the car runs very good.
I have the EGR block off plate installed on the back side of the intake, I left the EGR in place as it can not pull any air since the block off plate is installed... If you think it's wise to remove the EGR, I will and block that off too.
The AIR has been disconnected in my Corvette. I left the pump in place and pulled the wires guts and tubing. I like the OEM bracket compared to the aftermarket AIR pump replacement pully.
That looks great Ron. A little bird told me someone took care of Mr Soden's programming issues and he's up and running just fine. He can leave everything intact, and because it's no longer calling for either EGR, or AIR neither needs to be removed. However, it would be wise to install a EGR block off plate at some point to eliminate any chance of a carbon filled valve that could possibly create a small vacuum leak. Removing any unused vacuum hoses will clean things up, and lessen any chance of future hose cracks and leaks also.
I deleted the egr/air....just wondering what lines can I dixconnect...or actually what now needs vacuum?....those canisters in my drivers headlight well still have lots of hoses hooked up. is there a simpler way to do it???
I deleted the egr/air....just wondering what lines can I dixconnect...or actually what now needs vacuum?....those canisters in my drivers headlight well still have lots of hoses hooked up. is there a simpler way to do it???
The way I see it playsdixie, the vac coming off the bottom of the throttle body is the feed creating the vacuum for the EGR system. I left that in place just in case something else is running off that.
There are 2 vac lines running with the wiring harness on the drivers side, front fender, one is for the EGR which connects to the EGR Control valve mounted on the stud for the T-Stat housing, that feeds the valve with vac so when the ECM calls for EGR function, that valve will open, and vac will pull the EGR from the valve.
I left those in place, since I left the actual EGR valve on the intake and just plugged the port in the rear of the intake. No need to plug exhaust since the headers have no EGR port.
One thing I was told and read here, keep that engine running cooler so the EGR function is not needed.
The way I see it playsdixie, the vac coming off the bottom of the throttle body is the feed creating the vacuum for the EGR system. I left that in place just in case something else is running off that.
There are 2 vac lines running with the wiring harness on the drivers side, front fender, one is for the EGR which connects to the EGR Control valve mounted on the stud for the T-Stat housing, that feeds the valve with vac so when the ECM calls for EGR function, that valve will open, and vac will pull the EGR from the valve.
I left those in place, since I left the actual EGR valve on the intake and just plugged the port in the rear of the intake. No need to plug exhaust since the headers have no EGR port.
One thing I was told and read here, keep that engine running cooler so the EGR function is not needed.
i'm in s florida....ran it today....in the 80.s....never goes over 180
but I also have that vac line under my throttle bdy and only one on the drivers side...I completly removed the egr...any idea's where that one goes"....if nothing else needs vacuum, i'll rip it all out...clean it up a bit...lots of lines down by those canisters...wondering if I need them...i'm sure somebody...probably everybody but me...will know...that's why I love the forum....
MrWillys....thanks for the great diagram...if i'm reading it right, with the egr lines disconnected, the only purpose for the canister is to provide some vacuum to the fuel tank....would this be for emission purposes? or safety?....does it show vac to distributer in 85??? Also, whats the little round canister next to it...thought that was a vacuum line.???.. got to stop drinking when i'm doing this....thanks.....Paul nam 67