In the middle of a 383 build and I think this is the correct way to align guide plates, but can't fine a lot of info on the site or Googling.

I have a fresh set of Edelbrock E-210 heads, C.C. Pro Magnum 1.52 rocker arms, & Edelbrock's recommended pushrods. Everything is going great, and with the limited time I had today, I wanted to check for valve/piston clearances.

I noticed while looking the heads over, it didn't look like the guide plates were aligned up very well, just by eyeballing it. They aren't the 2 piece "adjustable" ones, but when I loosened up the rocker studs, you can move them around quite a bit.

So I loosened #1's rocker studs just enough so I could still tap the guideplate around, but it was a little snug. Then I dropped in a couple solid lifters & pushrods, then the 2 rockers and adjusted the rockers till I felt just a little resistance while turning them.

As you can see from the pic below, the left pic (it's the same intake valve, just before and after I moved the guide plate around, with the right side is after) is where the guide plate originally was. I tapped the guide plate over so that when I wiggled the rocker arm left to right over the valve, it was centered as best I could with my 52 year old eyes, then tightened down the rocker studs enough to keep the plate from moving while I took the arms & pushrods back off. Then I'll torque them back down to specs. (putting some thread sealer on before I start anything so I don't have to remove the studs again.)

Does this sound about right, or is there a better way?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Carl

 

Thats about the only way to do it. Just rotate the engine so each pair of rockers and guideplate you position have the lifters off the cam lobe lift (both valves closed on compression stroke). This makes it easier to set and move the guide plates without spring load being a factor too.
I even had to grind a couple of guideplate holes a little on the side in order to get a more even alignment. No need to fully torque down the studs either each time you check alignment. Keep just a little rocker stud friction on the guide plate while adjusting the plate each time you check it. You can tap the guideplate under light friction as necessary between alignments to get both intake and exhaust where you want them without losing what you have already. I just set the rocker on the stud with the pushrod in place each time I check it with the polylock just barely hand tight. Should be all that's necessary. Good luck.
Rick

 

That's the way it's done. Only things I have to add are:

1. Verify that the pushrods still move freely after the guide plates are adjusted. A number of years ago - I had one pushrod that was rubbing against the head in one spot - I had to file a little aluminum off the aftermarket head to get a nice clean fit - and that's more than a little annoying to do when the heads are already torqued in place.

2. If you need to "open anything up" to get the alignment just right - make the rocker stud hole a bit bigger - it seems most guide plates are induction hardened, so if you grind into the slot where the pushrod goes - you risk grinding right through the hardened portion, and getting into much softer steel. It doesn't take very much metal removal to do this (ask me how I know).

GOOD LUCK !!!

 

Great. Thanks guys!

Carl

 

Quote:
2. If you need to "open anything up" to get the alignment just right - make the rocker stud hole a bit bigger - it seems most guide plates are induction hardened, so if you grind into the slot where the pushrod goes - you risk grinding right through the hardened portion, and getting into much softer steel. It doesn't take very much metal removal to do this (ask me how I know).

Ditto. Never grind on the hardened pushrod slots to get alignment.
Grinding was also required on my AFR heads for pushrod clearance.
From past experience, I use old head gaskets for fitup and alignment prior to torquing up heads with new gaskets so removal of heads and grinding for pushrod clearance is not a problem.
R

 

Thank you very much for that note. I finally had some time today to get to work on the engine, and upon trying to get the alignment right, I did notice a few of the pushrods were hitting the sides of the holes in the head before the "travel" of the guide plate stopped.

Luckily I had not put my new head gaskets on, and only had the heads fastened with a few bolts tightened lightly so removal of the heads to do the Dremel work was easy.

Thanks again for the tip.

Carl

 

It may be just the angle, but it looks like the rollers are on the edge of the valvestem. Make sure when the valvetrain goes through a cycle, the roller covers the middle of the valvestem.

 

Yes, thanks for the heads up. Will double check. I have already put redneck Dykem (sharpie) on top of the valves to check where they are riding.

Thanks!!