Play in Tilt column
As indicated on the website, there are 4 reverse torx head bolts that usually come loose holding the column together. There are also two pivot pins on the left and right side of the tilt piece that is behind the part that holds the ignition cylinder. These pins have threads in the center of them.
You have to remove the housing with the pins in it to get to the torx bolts. To do this, first remove the spring that moves the tilt mechanism up. Its held in by a metal plug that has a four sided hole in the center of it. I used a needle nose plier and pushed the part that covers the spring a 1/4" towads the column and turned it to the left and let it slide out. Watch out for the spring. It has a lot of grease on it. The hole is a little messed up but not too badly.
To get the pivot pins out that are on the left and right side of the column, you'll have to get some 8-32 screws that are about 3 inches long, a washer and two nuts to go on the screw. Its best to get some steel screws but you can use the zinc plated home depot ones also. I used those. I took a 9/16" 1/4" drive socket and put the bolt end over the pin face. Then I threaded the screw with the two nuts and washer already attached through the socket drive end into the pin. Once the screw is threaded all the way into the pin, I tightened the nuts to pull the pin out.
Do the same for the other side. Then pull the tilt handle and the housing should come out. You'll have to make sure the iginition switch linkage setup is out of the way when you pull the housing out. You should see the 4 torx fastners at this point. Tighten them with lock tite. I used blue on mine.
The website mentioned just tighten the two bolts you can get to. I did not want to do this and a socket had fallen into the column so I had to get into it anyway. Be sure to lube the various parts.
One other suggestion. To reinstall the spring loaded steering wheel lock mechanism retaining ring, I used a deep socket big enough to slide over the steering shaft to push the ring back on. This eliminates the need for the tool to hold the lock wheel down.
[Modified by AquaMetallic94LT1, 6:59 PM 7/16/2002]
Yes, there are some things you can do to assist getting those pesky wire bundles out.
First, when removing wires, make sure the tilt wheel is in the neutral position. Adjust as required. Secondly, the ones that cause problems are the pivot switch wires and the turn signal bundle. One Corvette tech at a dealer told me to fold back the connector, tape, string a wire through the tape, send wire down the column, pull wire. Well, its not quite that easy. When you first meet resistance, look through the top of the column, use a thin screw driver and work the tape area through the narrow part, and it will go. Make sure you remove the small plastic friction guard near where the steering column bolts to the dash. Forget this, and you will never get the wires in or out. I assume you have the service manual. The column schematics helped me. After getting one of the bigger bundles out, the rest get much easier. Sounds like you've been pretty deep into the column and know what's there. On the larger bundles, I would consider taping the connectors before pulling them through, just for protection.
Dealer techs hate this work and it can be quite expensive. I feel their pain. Show no fear.
As far as removing the smaller wires, VATS wires, etc, I usually pull the smaller ones first, getting them out of the way. The biggest restriction seems to be at the top of the column. Fortunately, you can see this and do some maneuvering with a screwdriver.
Let me know if you have any questions.
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