C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Dana 36 help please

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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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Default Dana 36 help please

i have an 84 corvette.when at stop then turn corner i hear grind noise and a slippage in the rear end.then goes away when straightened out.was told carrier bearings and/or carrier its self and many other options.need to know the highest possibility it could be?
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tat2guy
i have an 84 corvette.when at stop then turn corner i hear grind noise and a slippage in the rear end.then goes away when straightened out.was told carrier bearings and/or carrier its self and many other options.need to know the highest possibility it could be?
Drain the fluid completely, refill with GL5 80W90 and 2 bottles of GM 1052358 additive and drive it. Maybe do some figure 8's in a large parking lot. You'll need to pump the fluid out using a suction pump. I don't believe I'd use the synthetics in your particular situation. Have you ever checked the rear differential fluid? Check for obvious leaks at the differential, the front at the pinion, right and left sides to each wheel.

While you do the change or have it done have all of the u-joints checked. There will be two in the drive-shaft and two in each half-shaft to each wheel. Is your car an AT or a MT?
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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What is condition of fluid - black and/or smelling burnt. It will need to come apart. The differential case and /or components (posi unit) more likely. Pinion and carrier bearings usually will make noise all the time. Noise only when turning normally involve parts required for turning: Wheel or hub bearings, half shafts, and the differential pinions within case. When turning one tire speeds up the other slows down. If your question is costs, you need to diagnose where noise is coming from first.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
Noise only when turning normally involve parts required for turning: Wheel or hub bearings, half shafts, and the differential pinions.
Or the Posi clutches
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
What is condition of fluid - black and/or smelling burnt. It will need to come apart. The differential case and /or components (posi unit) more likely. Pinion and carrier bearings usually will make noise all the time. Noise only when turning normally involve parts required for turning: Wheel or hub bearings, half shafts, and the differential pinions within case. When turning one tire speeds up the other slows down. If your question is costs, you need to diagnose where noise is coming from first.
It cost's very little to inspect the u-joints and visually check the balance of everything external. It also costs very little to just service the rear with the correct fluids and see what the results are. I'd think it very foolish to just "tear it apart" on a "whim"! Maybe it truly needs torn apart but there's very inexpensive places to start that don't require a tear down.

If he responds with I've never added fluid, checked fluid and have driven it 100K miles well then maybe BUT I believe there needs to be a "PLAN" and the tear down isn't the first step.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:06 PM
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I actually just got the car last summer.Put around 200 miles on it since.I will have the rear drained and filled with the fluids mentioned,then go from there i guess. If i have to i will take it apart.Just never delt with this problem or worked on a vette rear end before.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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Thank you for all the replies..
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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Auto by the way
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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Drain the fluid completely, refill with GL5 80W90 and 2 bottles of GM 1052358 additive and drive it. Maybe do some figure 8's in a large parking lot. You'll need to pump the fluid out using a suction pump. I don't believe I'd use the synthetics in your particular situation. Have you ever checked the rear differential fluid? Check for obvious leaks at the differential, the front at the pinion, right and left sides to each wheel.

While you do the change or have it done have all of the u-joints checked. There will be two in the drive-shaft and two in each half-shaft to each wheel. Is your car an AT or a MT?
Good advice IMO. Especially if it gets worse when it's hot. Seen it many times when a fluid change and some whale sperm was the ticket. Bought a 12 bolt one time for $100 that needed a fluid change and was good to go. Guy thought it was junk.
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