Another opti question but this time it's different
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
Just an update..Opti was sent back to petris, apparently they forgot to put a seal between the cap and plastic lower housing and the screws were lose. When I ordered the distributor he was going to show. I am guessing mine was meant for display and a worker quickly put it back together without thinking about the seal. He's honoring the warranty and it should be arriving this week.
On a side note this vehicle speed sensor has been a b***h to find. The one I ordered off amazon did not fit. I went to O'reily and they ordered the wrong one, then the one they ordered which was supposed to be the right one did not fit either. I'm going to order it through Raptor Transmission, I believe they will have the right one from my car. The gm part has been discontinued.
On a side note this vehicle speed sensor has been a b***h to find. The one I ordered off amazon did not fit. I went to O'reily and they ordered the wrong one, then the one they ordered which was supposed to be the right one did not fit either. I'm going to order it through Raptor Transmission, I believe they will have the right one from my car. The gm part has been discontinued.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
Hi,
New here and need help. I need some help/info on the replacement of the optispark. I have a 93 which I got new. 20 years later I have had the optispark replaced 6 times. Each time cost over a grand. I have babyed the car all that time and now I have just pass it on to my son. With only 41,000 miles on it I just could not trade it in when I got my new stringray. So with that said. has anyone out there themselves installed the optispark on a 93 40th anniversary with the lt1? I would like to replace it with my son as a father and son project. So it's something he will have to learn down the road where he has to do it himself. Pulling off the water pump and the optispark seem easy enough. But the front pulley in front of the distrubitor will be a problem. If anyone out there have done it please let me know how It can be done. With only about no more than 2 inch between the front of the pulley and the front cross bar. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you
New here and need help. I need some help/info on the replacement of the optispark. I have a 93 which I got new. 20 years later I have had the optispark replaced 6 times. Each time cost over a grand. I have babyed the car all that time and now I have just pass it on to my son. With only 41,000 miles on it I just could not trade it in when I got my new stringray. So with that said. has anyone out there themselves installed the optispark on a 93 40th anniversary with the lt1? I would like to replace it with my son as a father and son project. So it's something he will have to learn down the road where he has to do it himself. Pulling off the water pump and the optispark seem easy enough. But the front pulley in front of the distrubitor will be a problem. If anyone out there have done it please let me know how It can be done. With only about no more than 2 inch between the front of the pulley and the front cross bar. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you
There are 3 bolts. I'm not sure what size. Get them lose then take them out with your hand. I actually got the socket wrench stuck between the bar and pulley because I wasn't paying attention. If the pulley starts to move, pressed down or pulled up (can't remember) on a crow bar placed between the smaller pulley and bigger pulley. Make sure you mark the position where the pulley was originally in on the pulley it self and the place it came off of because it may move (i'm not sure why but my dad said to). To get it off after the bolts are out, jiggle it back and forth while trying to pull it out and it will gradually come off.
Also, make sure to put new gaskets on your water pump before you put that back on. Check for oil leaks, the optispark will suck up any liquid. I had an oil pan leak for about 2 weeks and Chris Petris at Petris Enterprises could see oil in my Optispark. Putting the pump and optispark back on is the most difficult part, in my opinion. You could order one from him and send him your old one I'm sure he will be able to tell you what went wrong.
Lastly, have you checked the codes to make sure its a code 16? 6 optisparks sounds excessive. I would check and see if there are any other codes that would cause your optispark to break. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,682
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
Hi,
New here and need help. I need some help/info on the replacement of the optispark. I have a 93 which I got new. 20 years later I have had the optispark replaced 6 times. Each time cost over a grand. I have babyed the car all that time and now I have just pass it on to my son. With only 41,000 miles on it I just could not trade it in when I got my new stringray. So with that said. has anyone out there themselves installed the optispark on a 93 40th anniversary with the lt1? I would like to replace it with my son as a father and son project. So it's something he will have to learn down the road where he has to do it himself. Pulling off the water pump and the optispark seem easy enough. But the front pulley in front of the distrubitor will be a problem. If anyone out there have done it please let me know how It can be done. With only about no more than 2 inch between the front of the pulley and the front cross bar. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you
New here and need help. I need some help/info on the replacement of the optispark. I have a 93 which I got new. 20 years later I have had the optispark replaced 6 times. Each time cost over a grand. I have babyed the car all that time and now I have just pass it on to my son. With only 41,000 miles on it I just could not trade it in when I got my new stringray. So with that said. has anyone out there themselves installed the optispark on a 93 40th anniversary with the lt1? I would like to replace it with my son as a father and son project. So it's something he will have to learn down the road where he has to do it himself. Pulling off the water pump and the optispark seem easy enough. But the front pulley in front of the distrubitor will be a problem. If anyone out there have done it please let me know how It can be done. With only about no more than 2 inch between the front of the pulley and the front cross bar. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you
Do you clean the engine bay? Pressure wash the front of the engine?
If so, then that could be how water intrudes.
I dab rtv silicone around the perimeter of the seals and drive shaft gasket edges, just to be safe.
Basically the car runs hot which causes seals to shrink/crack and allow water to get in. The rtv silicone is a backup seal....
,,
,,,and since the 93 is a non vented setup, the water has nowhere to go once its in there.
You should add a custom vent harness (like on 95 thru 96, gen 2 optisparks) to your gen 1 optispark for reliable operation.
Now heres the next part....what brand optispark is being put into your car?
Ac delco new old stock...? Which is about a $700 part, if you can find it..
Or, is someone putting some other brand optispark in there?
Some people here will disagree with me, but i am convinced all other brands (summit, msd, etc.) are crap and have no place in my car. They do not use a mitsubishi optical sensor.
Ac delco makes a 'remanufactured in china' 'rest-assured' optispark, however i had one of those fail. The issue was they replace cap, seals, bearings, but recycle the mitsubishi optical pickup. In my case tHe optical sensor was cracked and they spraypainted over it to cover that up.
That said, id rather take one of those then the off brand optisparks, good luck
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Wow, you replaced your opti 6 times in 41,000 miles. I just replaced mine at 120,000 only because the water pump was bad and figured since I was already that far into it. Found the rotor and cap were pretty worn. If it's been off six times the pulley should come off pretty easily. I suggest doing what I did and do a search on this forum.. This has been addressed many times as has the brand of opti you should buy. Great to hear your keeping the C4 in the family and making it a father/son project. 
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
first, lets try to understand why you have to get the optispark replaced all the time...
Do you clean the engine bay? Pressure wash the front of the engine?
If so, then that could be how water intrudes.
I dab rtv silicone around the perimeter of the seals and drive shaft gasket edges, just to be safe.
Basically the car runs hot which causes seals to shrink/crack and allow water to get in. The rtv silicone is a backup seal....
,,
,,,and since the 93 is a non vented setup, the water has nowhere to go once its in there.
You should add a custom vent harness (like on 95 thru 96, gen 2 optisparks) to your gen 1 optispark for reliable operation.
Now heres the next part....what brand optispark is being put into your car?
Ac delco new old stock...? Which is about a $700 part, if you can find it..
Or, is someone putting some other brand optispark in there?
Some people here will disagree with me, but i am convinced all other brands (summit, msd, etc.) are crap and have no place in my car. They do not use a mitsubishi optical sensor.
Ac delco makes a 'remanufactured in china' 'rest-assured' optispark, however i had one of those fail. The issue was they replace cap, seals, bearings, but recycle the mitsubishi optical pickup. In my case tHe optical sensor was cracked and they spraypainted over it to cover that up.
That said, id rather take one of those then the off brand optisparks, good luck
Do you clean the engine bay? Pressure wash the front of the engine?
If so, then that could be how water intrudes.
I dab rtv silicone around the perimeter of the seals and drive shaft gasket edges, just to be safe.
Basically the car runs hot which causes seals to shrink/crack and allow water to get in. The rtv silicone is a backup seal....
,,
,,,and since the 93 is a non vented setup, the water has nowhere to go once its in there.
You should add a custom vent harness (like on 95 thru 96, gen 2 optisparks) to your gen 1 optispark for reliable operation.
Now heres the next part....what brand optispark is being put into your car?
Ac delco new old stock...? Which is about a $700 part, if you can find it..
Or, is someone putting some other brand optispark in there?
Some people here will disagree with me, but i am convinced all other brands (summit, msd, etc.) are crap and have no place in my car. They do not use a mitsubishi optical sensor.
Ac delco makes a 'remanufactured in china' 'rest-assured' optispark, however i had one of those fail. The issue was they replace cap, seals, bearings, but recycle the mitsubishi optical pickup. In my case tHe optical sensor was cracked and they spraypainted over it to cover that up.
That said, id rather take one of those then the off brand optisparks, good luck
Do I clean the engine bay? Pressure wash the front of the engine? NEVER
No oil or water leaks. replaced water pump even when the old one was good.
they have tried 2 CHEV OEM at around $ 650 plus labor. 1new from NAPA and 2 rebuilt from Autozone who knows what brand and the other times they might have just change the cap and rotor for all I know..
I am thinking of trying to install a MSD PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR with vent line. I don't need something for track. just something that I can count on. Does anyone know if they work and are they any better? Does the vent line really work to solve the poor design of the stock optisparks ? I need something that I can rely on since the car is going to my son.
Thank you for the info.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,682
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
Do I clean the engine bay? Pressure wash the front of the engine? NEVER
No oil or water leaks. replaced water pump even when the old one was good.
they have tried 2 CHEV OEM at around $ 650 plus labor. 1new from NAPA and 2 rebuilt from Autozone who knows what brand and the other times they might have just change the cap and rotor for all I know..
I am thinking of trying to install a MSD PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR with vent line. I don't need something for track. just something that I can count on. Does anyone know if they work and are they any better? Does the vent line really work to solve the poor design of the stock optisparks ? I need something that I can rely on since the car is going to my son.
Thank you for the info.
No oil or water leaks. replaced water pump even when the old one was good.
they have tried 2 CHEV OEM at around $ 650 plus labor. 1new from NAPA and 2 rebuilt from Autozone who knows what brand and the other times they might have just change the cap and rotor for all I know..
I am thinking of trying to install a MSD PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR with vent line. I don't need something for track. just something that I can count on. Does anyone know if they work and are they any better? Does the vent line really work to solve the poor design of the stock optisparks ? I need something that I can rely on since the car is going to my son.
Thank you for the info.
Not a fan of MSD optispark.
Do a forum search and you will read about all kinds of failures.
That said, theres 2 people I know on here will disagree with me. They are having good luck with their MSD optispark.
A/C Delco is the brand you want. Not autozone or ebay stuff. Good luck.
Petris used to make an optispark upgrade with vent harness, however its my understanding that his cores now do not use the mitsubishi optical sensor.
You must add a custom vent harness to the 92-93 optispark. This includes both a vacuum vent (With one-way check valve and flow-reducer) and a filter air inlet line.
To do mine, I bought a gen 2 optispark cap, that has an air hose fitting. That became my filtered air inlet. I put that on my gen 1 optispark. It fits it fine.
I then drilled out one of the 3 weep holes to 1/8" and epoxied a hard plastic connector in place and used that as the vacuum port. Dont forget to use a flow reducer (the hole is pinhole size) and check valve. You dont want too much vacuum collapsing the optispark cap.
Oh yeah, you also have to seal shut the other 2 weep holes with epoxy.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 663
Likes: 1
From: Nashville TN
Just an update..Opti was sent back to petris, apparently they forgot to put a seal between the cap and plastic lower housing and the screws were lose. When I ordered the distributor he was going to show. I am guessing mine was meant for display and a worker quickly put it back together without thinking about the seal. He's honoring the warranty and it should be arriving this week.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
That was not his excuse. Before I bought the part there was a notice saying he was going to show and I am assuming that is what happened. I know you have had a bad experience with the part but I cannot say mine has been the same. He was professional about the warranty exchange. I am still confident his optispark is more reliable than any other on the market or else I would have asked for my money back. If it breaks again my view will change, and this forum will know if it breaks prematurely again.
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Cruising
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I suggest you get a Factory Service Manual, and follow the procedure it lays out.
A few tips (I'm going from memory here, so I'll probably forget a few things):
Drain the cooling system.
Disconnect the MAF sensor and IAT sensor and remove the air intake duct with the MAF and IAT as an assembly.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and remove it from the water pump.
Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
You may find that you’ll need to unbolt the coil/ICM bracket from the front of the right cylinder head. I can’t recall for sure whether or not I did.
If you're planning to replace the plug wires while you're in there, (recommended unless they're fresh) unbolt, but don't remove the power steering pump. This will help you to sneak the new plug wires in/out behind the pump, but may also be somewhat helpful when working on the water pump/Opti.
If you want more room to work, you can remove the radiator, but it isn't strictly necessary, and it involves considerably more work to remove it (I left mine in place).
The FSM will tell you that you need a special Kent-Moore puller to remove the crank pulley/damper. You don't. Here's how to get it off:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle enough that you can get under the car (it's also helpful to have it at a more comfortable height while you're working from above).
2. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley/damper to the hub.
3. Mark the damper and hub so that you can easily see how to realign them to each other later.
4. Slide under the car with a long pry bar or hardwood dowel (I use a jumbo Snap-On screwdriver that's around two feet long) and a mallet.
5. Place the tip of the pry bar against the rear face of the damper, as close to the hub as possible (Ideally rest the tip alongside of the hub).
6 Give the pry bar a few whacks with the mallet, and with any luck the damper will pop off without too much of a fight.
You may find it helpful to apply a few whacks, then rotate the crankshaft in 120* increments, whacking it a few times at each interval (I haven't needed to do this).
It's also helpful to, if possible, shoot a bit of penetrating oil where the damper meets the hub, a day or more in advance of doing the job.
After you get the damper off, clean the damper/hub mating surfaces to remove all corrosion, etc, and apply a very thin coating of anti-sieze compound to these surfaces before you reassmble the damper to the hub. This should make it a lot easier to get the damper off next time.
Once the damper is removed, rotate the crankshaft so that one wing of the damper hub is at the six-o'clock position. This will position the other two wings at around the ten- and two-o'clock positions. In this orientation, the Opti will clear the hub as it is being removed/installed.
The Opti basically unbolts and pulls off as you'd expect, once you have the water pump and damper out of the way.
Once the Opti is out of the way, inspect the shaft seals for the Opti, water pump, and crankshaft. If they show any signs of leakage, replace them now.
When you install the new Opti, be sure to align it correctly with the cam gear, and don't force it into place against the timing cover (do NOT use the bolts to draw it into place). At most, give it a gentle bump with the heel of your hand to encourage it to pop into place.
Reassemble everything else.
Follow the cooling system refill procedure in the FSM carefully, and you'll have no problems with this. In particular, be sure to bleed the air out of the system as it's being refilled.
Hope this helps a bit. Good luck with it.
Live well,
SJW
A few tips (I'm going from memory here, so I'll probably forget a few things):
Drain the cooling system.
Disconnect the MAF sensor and IAT sensor and remove the air intake duct with the MAF and IAT as an assembly.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and remove it from the water pump.
Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
You may find that you’ll need to unbolt the coil/ICM bracket from the front of the right cylinder head. I can’t recall for sure whether or not I did.
If you're planning to replace the plug wires while you're in there, (recommended unless they're fresh) unbolt, but don't remove the power steering pump. This will help you to sneak the new plug wires in/out behind the pump, but may also be somewhat helpful when working on the water pump/Opti.
If you want more room to work, you can remove the radiator, but it isn't strictly necessary, and it involves considerably more work to remove it (I left mine in place).
The FSM will tell you that you need a special Kent-Moore puller to remove the crank pulley/damper. You don't. Here's how to get it off:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle enough that you can get under the car (it's also helpful to have it at a more comfortable height while you're working from above).
2. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley/damper to the hub.
3. Mark the damper and hub so that you can easily see how to realign them to each other later.
4. Slide under the car with a long pry bar or hardwood dowel (I use a jumbo Snap-On screwdriver that's around two feet long) and a mallet.
5. Place the tip of the pry bar against the rear face of the damper, as close to the hub as possible (Ideally rest the tip alongside of the hub).
6 Give the pry bar a few whacks with the mallet, and with any luck the damper will pop off without too much of a fight.
You may find it helpful to apply a few whacks, then rotate the crankshaft in 120* increments, whacking it a few times at each interval (I haven't needed to do this).
It's also helpful to, if possible, shoot a bit of penetrating oil where the damper meets the hub, a day or more in advance of doing the job.
After you get the damper off, clean the damper/hub mating surfaces to remove all corrosion, etc, and apply a very thin coating of anti-sieze compound to these surfaces before you reassmble the damper to the hub. This should make it a lot easier to get the damper off next time.
Once the damper is removed, rotate the crankshaft so that one wing of the damper hub is at the six-o'clock position. This will position the other two wings at around the ten- and two-o'clock positions. In this orientation, the Opti will clear the hub as it is being removed/installed.
The Opti basically unbolts and pulls off as you'd expect, once you have the water pump and damper out of the way.
Once the Opti is out of the way, inspect the shaft seals for the Opti, water pump, and crankshaft. If they show any signs of leakage, replace them now.
When you install the new Opti, be sure to align it correctly with the cam gear, and don't force it into place against the timing cover (do NOT use the bolts to draw it into place). At most, give it a gentle bump with the heel of your hand to encourage it to pop into place.
Reassemble everything else.
Follow the cooling system refill procedure in the FSM carefully, and you'll have no problems with this. In particular, be sure to bleed the air out of the system as it's being refilled.
Hope this helps a bit. Good luck with it.
Live well,
SJW
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Not a fan of MSD optispark.
Do a forum search and you will read about all kinds of failures.
That said, theres 2 people I know on here will disagree with me. They are having good luck with their MSD optispark.
A/C Delco is the brand you want. Not autozone or ebay stuff. Good luck.
Petris used to make an optispark upgrade with vent harness, however its my understanding that his cores now do not use the mitsubishi optical sensor.
You must add a custom vent harness to the 92-93 optispark. This includes both a vacuum vent (With one-way check valve and flow-reducer) and a filter air inlet line.
To do mine, I bought a gen 2 optispark cap, that has an air hose fitting. That became my filtered air inlet. I put that on my gen 1 optispark. It fits it fine.
I then drilled out one of the 3 weep holes to 1/8" and epoxied a hard plastic connector in place and used that as the vacuum port. Dont forget to use a flow reducer (the hole is pinhole size) and check valve. You dont want too much vacuum collapsing the optispark cap.
Oh yeah, you also have to seal shut the other 2 weep holes with epoxy.
Do a forum search and you will read about all kinds of failures.
That said, theres 2 people I know on here will disagree with me. They are having good luck with their MSD optispark.
A/C Delco is the brand you want. Not autozone or ebay stuff. Good luck.
Petris used to make an optispark upgrade with vent harness, however its my understanding that his cores now do not use the mitsubishi optical sensor.
You must add a custom vent harness to the 92-93 optispark. This includes both a vacuum vent (With one-way check valve and flow-reducer) and a filter air inlet line.
To do mine, I bought a gen 2 optispark cap, that has an air hose fitting. That became my filtered air inlet. I put that on my gen 1 optispark. It fits it fine.
I then drilled out one of the 3 weep holes to 1/8" and epoxied a hard plastic connector in place and used that as the vacuum port. Dont forget to use a flow reducer (the hole is pinhole size) and check valve. You dont want too much vacuum collapsing the optispark cap.
Oh yeah, you also have to seal shut the other 2 weep holes with epoxy.
Fixing An Opti-Spark Distributor Without Reaching For A Hammer
Read more: http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/#ixzz2zWC4qG1A
I was thinking of trying this myself. I have a new rebuilt I have been saving to try before Spending big bucks like MSD. Which seem everyone hates. Did your vented cap work for you and for how long? and have you had to swap out again after your install. Thank You
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 4
From: middle TN
Gotta make an observation, forgive me as an infrequent poster over the years. The AC Delco opti seems to be in vogue now, as "the other brands are crap"...or words to that effect. HELLO...NEWS FLASH...Isn't AC Delco what came on the car? Wasn't it "crap" to begin with?
I'm not necessarily bashing the opti mind you, but it seems over the years people are ready to bash whatever brands give them trouble and become champion of a new brand, which in this case may actually be an old brand.
Opti probs are the nature of the late C4 beast...best we can do is learn to mitigate the probs with venting, etc.
For the record, my '94 is on it's 3rd opti with 57K miles. I am the original owner of the car. Current opti was the most reputable and expensive brand available at the time (7 yrs ago), which shall remain nameless for obvious reasons.
I'm not necessarily bashing the opti mind you, but it seems over the years people are ready to bash whatever brands give them trouble and become champion of a new brand, which in this case may actually be an old brand.
Opti probs are the nature of the late C4 beast...best we can do is learn to mitigate the probs with venting, etc.
For the record, my '94 is on it's 3rd opti with 57K miles. I am the original owner of the car. Current opti was the most reputable and expensive brand available at the time (7 yrs ago), which shall remain nameless for obvious reasons.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Gotta make an observation, forgive me as an infrequent poster over the years. The AC Delco opti seems to be in vogue now, as "the other brands are crap"...or words to that effect. HELLO...NEWS FLASH...Isn't AC Delco what came on the car? Wasn't it "crap" to begin with?
I'm not necessarily bashing the opti mind you, but it seems over the years people are ready to bash whatever brands give them trouble and become champion of a new brand, which in this case may actually be an old brand.
Opti probs are the nature of the late C4 beast...best we can do is learn to mitigate the probs with venting, etc.
For the record, my '94 is on it's 3rd opti with 57K miles. I am the original owner of the car. Current opti was the most reputable and expensive brand available at the time (7 yrs ago), which shall remain nameless for obvious reasons.
I'm not necessarily bashing the opti mind you, but it seems over the years people are ready to bash whatever brands give them trouble and become champion of a new brand, which in this case may actually be an old brand.
Opti probs are the nature of the late C4 beast...best we can do is learn to mitigate the probs with venting, etc.
For the record, my '94 is on it's 3rd opti with 57K miles. I am the original owner of the car. Current opti was the most reputable and expensive brand available at the time (7 yrs ago), which shall remain nameless for obvious reasons.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
Just an update. I received the new Petris opti, put it on, still had a code 16. When I drove the car, the fuel would get choked on acceleration past 2.5k-3k. I called him up and ask him for refund. He agreed to giving me a refund, no problems whatsoever. He told me that he didn't believe the opti was the problem and I agreed I thought it was bizarre receiving a new faulty device. Chris was very informative, and gave me instructions possible leads to the problem. For example typical places for bad grounds, and checking them at the ECM. After cleaning off and testing a handful of grounds the code 16 and SES light would not go away.
So, I bought a Chandler opti and put it in a few days ago. The code 16 went away but, I still had an SES light on with this unit. That day, I decided to take the car to the gym for it's first test since it is a short 5 mile drive and there was no more code 16. On my way there, the car stalled at a red light but started back up I figured it was because the coolant was still being cycled and may have hit an air bubble and got a little hot or something (it couldn't possibly be the opti again right
). I was a little nervous so I took a detour in a neighborhood that could park in, in case the car wanted drive like crap after. It passed my test and I drove to the gym with no problems.
I got out of the gym and the vette does not want to start. I finally get it turned over and pull out of the gym and the analog temp. sensor is going of the charts so I pulled over immediately and waited for it to cool off. I put a whole bottle of 50/50 in the car. I get about a half mile down the road and it stalls at a redlight, it this about 2 more times until the battery died I had to push the car around a right turn to get it in a safe spot. 1.5 hours later the tow truck driver comes (my last tow this year
) gives me **** saying he doesn't tow lowered cars and I tell him just jump it. I get it jumped and I'm off with him following behind me. It stalls right after he pulls a U turn about a 1/4 from the turn to my neighborhood . 
With luck, I got it started and got home. The whole ordeal cost me 3-4 hours.
Here's the twist. I was getting a code 15 low coolant temp./voltage when the intial opti broke and had been disregarding it. I had already put a new sensor in when I put the 2nd petris in, and still got the code. Could I seriously be this unlucky with buying car parts? I didn't believe so. After about 30 hours of troubleshooting I look at my digital gauge for some reason, I have no idea why. The temp. showed 142 and the engine was stone cold. I knew this was the key. I researched the forum and found this post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...and-input.html. I knew immediately this was my cure. I put a 220 ohm resistor between the black and yellow CTS and the bam no more SES light.
I still think I had a bad intial opti and the 2nd opti was bad too or all Petris give off code 16's. Putting the Chandler in and getting no code 16 proves I had some type of opti problem but it may have not been what was causing my car to stall and not turnover. I'm thinking the new CTS is bad also. I guess I should never go to Vegas. EVER.
Unfortunately, my speedometer still does not work and have more research to do. Maybe the VSS I was sent was bad too. OR I have a broken digital dash/bad connection. I am getting a code 72.
So, I bought a Chandler opti and put it in a few days ago. The code 16 went away but, I still had an SES light on with this unit. That day, I decided to take the car to the gym for it's first test since it is a short 5 mile drive and there was no more code 16. On my way there, the car stalled at a red light but started back up I figured it was because the coolant was still being cycled and may have hit an air bubble and got a little hot or something (it couldn't possibly be the opti again right
). I was a little nervous so I took a detour in a neighborhood that could park in, in case the car wanted drive like crap after. It passed my test and I drove to the gym with no problems.I got out of the gym and the vette does not want to start. I finally get it turned over and pull out of the gym and the analog temp. sensor is going of the charts so I pulled over immediately and waited for it to cool off. I put a whole bottle of 50/50 in the car. I get about a half mile down the road and it stalls at a redlight, it this about 2 more times until the battery died I had to push the car around a right turn to get it in a safe spot. 1.5 hours later the tow truck driver comes (my last tow this year
) gives me **** saying he doesn't tow lowered cars and I tell him just jump it. I get it jumped and I'm off with him following behind me. It stalls right after he pulls a U turn about a 1/4 from the turn to my neighborhood . With luck, I got it started and got home. The whole ordeal cost me 3-4 hours. Here's the twist. I was getting a code 15 low coolant temp./voltage when the intial opti broke and had been disregarding it. I had already put a new sensor in when I put the 2nd petris in, and still got the code. Could I seriously be this unlucky with buying car parts? I didn't believe so. After about 30 hours of troubleshooting I look at my digital gauge for some reason, I have no idea why. The temp. showed 142 and the engine was stone cold. I knew this was the key. I researched the forum and found this post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...and-input.html. I knew immediately this was my cure. I put a 220 ohm resistor between the black and yellow CTS and the bam no more SES light.
I still think I had a bad intial opti and the 2nd opti was bad too or all Petris give off code 16's. Putting the Chandler in and getting no code 16 proves I had some type of opti problem but it may have not been what was causing my car to stall and not turnover. I'm thinking the new CTS is bad also. I guess I should never go to Vegas. EVER.
Unfortunately, my speedometer still does not work and have more research to do. Maybe the VSS I was sent was bad too. OR I have a broken digital dash/bad connection. I am getting a code 72.
Last edited by Pradaomygada; Apr 26, 2014 at 11:36 PM.