There are very simple test procedures to tell you real quick IF the ign switch is at fault or a key.

IF you install the resistor inline at the column plug and you insert your key and TEST the cable from the ign switch, it SHOULD show the resistance that the "bypass' resistor does...in other words, you test the ign switch with the key installed by testing at the plug-in on the column...
The test WILL show a good key and switch. That is a not so common failure.

next, IIWM I would bypass the starter enable relay. See what happens. There are a couple ways that can be done.;

Next,. you can BUY a new VATS module on FleaBay for $100 iirc....all you need is your code. brand new NOS module.

OR

You can buy a module bypass that replaces the VATS Module. $15 on FleaBay.

Thing is, 99% of the time if the starter is NOT working, its NOT the module.

You also have a starter & solenoid.
Don't blow it off....LOTS of guys (myself included) have blamed VATS for the exact same symptoms, wait to start, random no cranking...gotta be VATS. Nope.

The starter solenoid will corrode and collect dirt to the point it cannot make contact. It can even burn the contacts so its not making contact. Next time this happens, get under and TAP the solenoid with something and see if it suddenly cranks up...chances are it will.

For whatever reason, the C4 starter does this. Replace with a good mini-starter or Nippon Denso.

If you want the VATS module bypass let me know and I'll find the fleabay link. I've posted it here a doz times...a search might bring it up. Its $15 and it WORKS perfectly. You have no theft protection, but you can drive until you decide what you want to do as a permanent repair. The downside is that you still have to unearth the module and its very un-fun. The forced entry module is identical to the VATS module except a different color. One is black the other grey. The VATS module is buried deeper also..

 

If you are talkingabout a 87 the security light has nothing to do with Vatts. they are unrelated and a security light on can not premit a 1897 from starting..

 

You guys have obliviously done your homework and I have read a threads until my eyes are crossed and was looking for a little more info. I have my Mom and Dad's C4 that only has 10k miles on it and having VATS problems with it. I'm desperately trying to avoid cutting any wires or harnesses in the car as the car is completely stock and unmolested and has been garage kept and babied since day one. We are trying to get some of the bugs out of it and start enjoying it again but this is holding us up.

We have tested and isolated the problem to the VATS module it's self. The keys are good and not worn, we get the same resistance at the module as at the key. The wires are not dry rotted or falling apart or anything.

My question is this, can I order one of these used VATS modules off of EBAY and it work with out matching the resistance or is this a matched piece as well?

Thanks in advance for you time.

 

If the car is 1986 through 1993 I can reprogram it and remove VATS from the programming. There's also a starter enable relay that can be bypassed by reading here:

www.vatssucks.com

 

It's an 89.

I'm guessing that is a EPROM reprogramed and that would bypass the system entirely so I wouldn't have any issues in the future and wouldn't have to cut any wires at all. I am very interested in that.

With the reprogram, could I just leave all the equipment and wires in place?

You wouldn't happen to offer a just a chip with a program on it so I could keep this factory chip intact would you?

 

Or I could just get an aftermarket performance chip and do it to that I guess correct?

 

This car CRANKS but DOES NOT RUN or doesn't crank either? What exactly does the car do OR doesn't do?

Depending on your response the repair/diagnostics can change dramatically. It's good you mentioned the year as - '89 is different than some earlier years.

 

Yes, I have memcals. VATS is 2 part in that the VATS module authorizes the injectors to pulse and the starter enable relay to send power to the starter. I can only program out the injector portion. The link I posted can provide you with the information on how to ground the starter enable relay should it cause a problem. My website is linked in my username. I gotta go shovel snow.