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Today I pulled the bad starter out of my '96 Collector Edition. It's a rebuilt installed by the PO. This rebuilt starter has worked fine for the year I've owned the car...until it just quit the other day. I have a new starter on order but before I install the new one I have to ask...do all late C4 starter installations have shims? There were no shims with this old starter? Everything I've read about installing starters on an LT1 engine mentions shims.
Shimming of the starter is a one time requirement at the replacement of the starter. There are several tutorials of the proper way to determine if it's required or not. Time to read! Your ordered starter may include instructions, maybe even shims.
I might have considered checking the one you took off even though it was a reman. There's little to fail in a 'denso style starter.
There's some after-market starters that require shimming in two directions.
If you have no shims and you use a stock starter again , chances are you will not need them on the replacement..But you need to check... Do a search on Youtube, there are lots of tutorials on how to check gaps to see if it needs shimming...One thing to remember is, if the gap is wrong , you can damage your Flywheel / flexplate....WW
If you have no shims and you use a stock starter again , chances are you will not need them on the replacement..But you need to check... Do a search on Youtube, there are lots of tutorials on how to check gaps to see if it needs shimming...One thing to remember is, if the gap is wrong , you can damage your Flywheel / flexplate....WW
Thanks for the helpful reply. You're right, there is a lot of good information on Youtube about how to correctly measure to see if shims are needed. I'm glad now that I posted the question. I didn't think of Youtube and my Service Manual was very vague.
My 95 Vette does NOT have shims, but I'm not sure if the starter is original. However the FSM talks as if it should be there. So far it hasn't caused any problems for me.
Most never check the clearance between the ring gear and starter gear, some get away with it others are not so lucky and break the starter casting. I use a paper clip the thickness of a paper clip is what you need to make sure the starter gear "tip" does not jam up hard to the recces of the ring gear .
I usually do this when a new starter is bolted for the first time, i pull the starter gear out manually and let it mesh into the ring gear on the flywheel or flex plate. I make sure i can fit a paper clip wire thickness between the tip of the starter gear and recces of the ring gear.
You can eventually break a starter housing if there is insufficient clearance.
One of the Youtube videos I watched recommended that you pull the starter gear out and put some white paint on it prior to installing the new starter. Then install the unit and test start it a few tines. After that, remove it again and inspect the paint. The paint will be removed on the exact area of contact of the gears. Then shim as indicated, re-install and torque the mounting bolts to 35 lb ft. I think I may try this just to be sure.
One of the Youtube videos I watched recommended that you pull the starter gear out and put some white paint on it prior to installing the new starter. Then install the unit and test start it a few tines. After that, remove it again and inspect the paint. The paint will be removed on the exact area of contact of the gears. Then shim as indicated, re-install and torque the mounting bolts to 35 lb ft. I think I may try this just to be sure.
Most of the instructions I have read say to use the same procedure as mentioned above by gerardvg...Use a metel paper clip to gauge the distance between the engauged drive gear and the flexplate/flywheel gear, this gives you about .040" clearence which is perfect..I have used this procedure with all starters I have replaced and never had a problem....Why mess with success, no need to pull out the paint.........WW
I'm a bit rigid, I'd rather get a new OEM part than a remanufactured one. The new starter I ordered is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Depending on cost, I'm thinking of taking the old remanufactured one to have re-built again to keep as a spare part.
I crawled under the car again this morning and saw that it's easier to get access to the flywheel/starter gears than I originally thought. The paper clip method of gauging the clearance is the way to go.