As stated in another thread, I just bought a '95. It's been sitting all winter and the battery was beyond dead. Every once in a while when I go to start it, I just get a click, like the solenoid is kicking in but nothing else. The second time I try, it starts. Once in a while when it's turning over, it will begin to spin great, then crank very slowly, then pop to life again. It starts well so this all happens in a matter of a couple seconds.... just enough to make me paranoid about the starter. Last night I stopped to get gas and when I went to start it, it acted like the battery was 3/4 dead, then popped to life. In the old days I would describe it as the timing being way too far advanced or it had one serious cam in it. I'm considering just biting the bullet and getting a new one and be done with it rather than worry. I watched a youtube video and it indicated the exhaust must be dropped. He also suggested replacing the O2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor while I'm in there because they're hidden by the starter. It has 134K and who knows if they've ever been replaced. Sound like good advice? I tried looking up the O2 sensor online and it lists upstream, downstream, left and right... I'm confused. Which one is behind the starter?

This forum is wonderful for tech advice but what would you guys recommend for a repair manual?

 

You have one (identical ) each side ; only '96 has 4

Nothing is behind the starter ,the knock sensor is in the block in front of the starter ; you don't have a crankshaft sensor

 

Only one worth owning is the GM Factory Service Manual (FSM ) four year ; covers everything you will ever need

Often available in the C4 For sale section

see
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...ce-manual.html

 

Just do the FSM that is mentioned and if you've issues address them maybe one issue at a time. A '95 does have multiple O2 sensors (3) but there would under normal operation not be a "just maintenance" replacement recommendations.

An intermittent start can be the results of a few possible issues but some of those involve knowing if it's an M6 or an A4 and the diagnostics can sometimes be debated.

I'd say the most important thing for you to address is the condition of the electrical system. Have a "load test" done on your battery. It's quite important to have a battery at optimum charge for a good "load test".

How many days does your car need to sit before you have a dead battery?

How recent is the battery? Brand? It's a bit of a nuisance to remove the battery in a C4 but you'll need to learn sooner or later, so I'd suggest if it's a recent mainstream battery brand maybe remove it and take it to a local vendor to have it appropriately charged and load tested. Don't just give it a quick charge and assume it's ready to be checked.

If the starter is the original GM/OE I believe I'd consider the repair of "IT" vs. the purchase of an "off the shelf" reman starter.

 

If the battery and cables are good.

A very common problem with the Nippondenso starter is the copper
disc mounted on the solenoid plunger and the two copper lugs it
makes contact with to transfer 12 volts to the starter motor pit.
This causes high resistance and poor transfer of the 12 volts from the battery to the start motor.

The starter motor is a 1.4kw offset drive, gear reduction type starter
(OSGR).

Shop around for the best repair kit price.
Here are two videos showing the problem.

Link for the parts.



http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html

 

About that battery, you didn't say if you replaced it with new, or recharged it. If you recharged it, do you know how old the battery is?

 

No idea about the battery. It appears "recent" for whatever that's worth. All I know for sure is that it was dead enough to not run the dome light and they put a boost on it to start it. I've driven it some, maybe 60-70 miles tops.

Come to think of it, I had a '92 Camry that did the exact same thing with the starter. I also read about the disc. I believe that had a Nippondenso starter. When it would take afit like that, I just kept turning the key and eventually it would spark to life. Sometimes on the 2nd try, sometimes on the 19th. It was on it's last legs with 233K and I just lived with the issue for a year or so before a rod bearing went south.

I would like to be proactive and get the kit beforehand, and also any exhaust gaskets that may need to be replaced in the process. The video I watched had him drop it right at the manifold (of course) and also at the flanges in front of the rear axle. I have no issue going inside a starter, I'm more leery of dropping the exhaust.

 

There is no need to drop the exhaust. The starter is held on by two bolts, and that's it. It drops right out from there. It's a really easy job. I replaced mine in the parking lot at work. It actually took me longer to raise and support the car than it did to replace the starter.

I asked about the battery because older batteries tend to not fully recharge, especially after being completely drained. I would have a load test done on it, even if it reads charged, once a load hits it, it may be a different story. It takes alot of juice to turn the flywheel/flexplate to start the motor, and alot of your symptoms sound like an old battery as well.

 

I don't have to drop the exhaust? That's about the best news you could tell me. Is it okay to use run of the mill car ramps or is that not a good idea? I know some of my questions may seem overly basic but I'm used to working on my '57 Bel Air so there's a bit of a paradigm shift.

 

Ramps should be fine. I prefer jack stands because I can raise it a little higher and they don't take as much ground space, but ramps will work.