I took the rack and pinion off to get my frame powder coated and I noticed a very slight leak in the sleeve on the DS on the actuator under the bulk of the steering coupler comes in. I would not have noticed if I was not replacing the boots. It has been inactive for a while and before I put bolt it up I want to have a good feeling I will not have to bring it back out.
Thanks

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ica-kinda.html

 

Difficult to correctly interpret the area that you're referring to. Are you referring to the top towards the intermediate shaft OR ...

See if you can maybe pick the vicinity using the image this link should take you to:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...rimLevel=14233

Do you know what year rack you have?

 

These things are good for having "slight" leaks, or just "wet-spots". Its hard to say if that will EVER turn into a full blown leaking seal or if it will simply remain wet and collect dust...

Its the design of the power rod and cylinder. Round shaft with teeth cut into a square block. hard to seal nicely. The boots often stay wet inside.

I had mine on jacks yesterday, passenger side UP with the chassis leaning to the driver side. When I finished I saw the driver side boot had drained a couple tablespoons of fluid on the ground from leaning over.

If the leak gets worse of just bugs ya, add 1/2 bottle of LUCAS Rack & Pinion Conditioner and Sealer. This stuff works miracles and stops 99% of all leaks and it also fixes the Corvette "morning sickness" with the racks.
A $10 product that actually works and does what it claims. The downside of repair or rebuilding is that there is a good chance that it will come back with a similar leak or wet spot...or worse.

My attitude is simple....when/if the part is already OUT, then go ahead and fix it. If its not really leaking, just wet, then add LUCAS and have a nice day !
Replacement racks are not too costly...$200 to $300 for exchange. Its the install that's a PITA that CAN cost big time if you let an inexperienced shop do the work. As long as they drop the sway bar its not bad at all...'cept for the hoses... they couldn't have found a way to make the fittings any harder to get a wrench on....and end up with 1/4 turn at a time to tighten...lol

 

Mine would only leak if someone parked the car with the wheels turned to the left. I could park it with the wheels straight or turned right and it would loose no fluid. But if you parked it with them turned left it was empty in an hour.

It would also never loose any fluid while driving no matter which way i turned.

I ended up buying one from ecklers which was either new or reconditioned, I dont really remember. Anyways, i have had it for a good 6 months now with no issues and turning is easier than with the old worn out one.

Also just like leesvet said, only replace if you have to or if it is already really close to get to due to other repairs. I just happened to be pulling the engine 6 months ago and remembered it.

Also like he said try the lucas stop leak for power steering first. Really inexpensive compared to a repair and has a really good chance of working. I know friends who have used it and stopped pretty big leaks before.

 

thanks I put it back I think what I was seeing was fluid dripping from one of the plugged ports then dripping down.

 

It might be wise if it's still accessible to replace the o-rings at all of the fittings. The pressure is an 18mm Saginaw and the left and right turns are smaller Saginaw fittings, the return to the pump is 16mm Saginaw. The smaller left and right turn tubes to the spool valve area are different depending on the year of the rack.

 

thanks