VATS Problem...maybe??
I’m wondering if this is the dreaded VATS issue that I was hoping would never happen to me.

I was driving for approx 20 minutes and then pulled over to stop and check out a house with a friend.
I’d only left the car for probably no longer than 2 minutes and then got back in, turned the key and got nothing.
The dash gauges were operating ok (and did not dim when I tried to start), I heard the fuel pump prime and then turned the key to the start position, would not crank.
I tried jiggling the key in the ignition barrel, thinking that maybe the resistance pellet wasn’t making correct contact, still no start.
I did notice that every time I turned the key to the start position the ‘security’ light was flashing, which made me suspect it’s possibly a VATS issue?
I tried a few times without any success, I think (if I recall correctly) you only get a few shots at trying to start before the ECM prevents any further attempts until you wait for 5 minutes before resetting and allowing further attempts?....correct me if I’m wrong here.
Then after approx 30 minutes had passed I tried again and it still wouldn’t crank, so I tried a few more times and on the last attempt I held the key continuously in the start position for a few seconds and suddenly the car started.
When I got home I turned it off and then tried a restart, it started straight away, so it looks like it could be an intermittent problem.
Any suggestions as to what’s possibly going on here, how do I start diagnosing this problem?
Do any codes get set if it is a VATS issue?
Thanks,
Ken D

The vats issue is way over rated. It gets a lot of blame but seldom is the root to the problem. Esp after 87 with the new switch GM installed and if the previous yrs had the switch recall done. (may have just been a TSB cannot remember) but for the most part the problem was solved
..Could be a solenoid on the starter,, "ask me how I know" , and any of the other things mentioned above... I don't know if the security light is tied to the vats directly , but when my vats was having problems from a failed GM dealership ignition cylinder replacement, my security light would come on and stay on until I turned the key to start. After I installed the vats bypass module, the security light would come on for 2 seconds , then go off like it's suppose to do when I turned the key to the "ON" position......WW
Last edited by WW7; Apr 28, 2014 at 07:43 AM.
I would say the condition of the key I was using today is good, the contact points of the pellet look well defined and barely worn, not rounded and polished like some 'high mileage' keys I've seen.
The car has only done 45k miles, so the key and ignition barrel haven't seen a lot of action.
I have a FSM, if I recall correctly there's a trouble shooting procedure in there for VATS, but I'm not even sure if I have a VATS issue?...I'd hate to waste time chasing the wrong problem.
I think I know where you're going with the second key question, I was also wondering (whilst I was stranded) if the new spare key with a clean sharp pellet would make any difference, again assuming this was the problem.
As it stands at the moment I don't have any confidence in the car that this problem won't happen again and I hate that, there's nothing worse than wondering if the car's going to randomly strand me whenever this problem reoccurs.

The vats issue is way over rated. It gets a lot of blame but seldom is the root to the problem. Esp after 87 with the new switch GM installed and if the previous yrs had the switch recall done. (may have just been a TSB cannot remember) but for the most part the problem was solvedOP - What is the production date of your car? Do you know if your key or any of your keys are original?
Is the key you had made last year the same length as the older key that you used yesterday? If it were an older original it would be shorter and a different thickness. The newer keys would work in the older cylinders.
**** The change occurred by TSB notes in '87 later than H5120579 build.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:16 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
), I never leave the key in the ignition, even if I'm within eyesight of the car.
OP - What is the production date of your car? Do you know if your key or any of your keys are original?
Is the key you had made last year the same length as the older key that you used yesterday?
The production date is 11/87, I guess that makes it an early build 88 model?
Compared the original older key to the new spare, both are same length, even the condition of the pellets is practically identical with only the slightest wear noticeable on the old key compared to the new one.
The production date is 11/87, I guess that makes it an early build 88 model?
Compared the original older key to the new spare, both are same length, even the condition of the pellets is practically identical with only the slightest wear noticeable on the old key compared to the new one.
There's lots to check and intermittent isn't going to make any of it easier.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:13 AM.

Being a newbie C4 owner it was the one issue I was hoping I wouldn't have to deal with.
You raised some good points there to check, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a VATS bypass fitted, I know the previous owner and any work done on the car was done by the dealer, I doubt the dealer would fit a VATS bypass?
At the time it happened, I moved the gear selector thru the range and back into park, also thinking that maybe it was a neutral safety switch, it didn't make any difference.
The question is, how do I get it to recreate the problem?
In both cases, it was a matter of letting it reset. I cleaned the key with denatured alcohol and all was good.
If the car now works, you likely have something wrong with the resistor on the key being read and passed along to the VATs sysem.
If it does not correct your issue, then you have something else going on.
If nothing else, it's a good diagnostic tool and being it's fully wired you just unplug the existing connector and plug this one in without any wiring cutting.
OP - What is the production date of your car? Do you know if your key or any of your keys are original?
Is the key you had made last year the same length as the older key that you used yesterday? If it were an older original it would be shorter and a different thickness. The newer keys would work in the older cylinders.
**** The change occurred by TSB notes in '87 later than H5120579 build.
In both cases, it was a matter of letting it reset. I cleaned the key with denatured alcohol and all was good.
a 96 is a whole different beast then a 88. By 96 the securty light was tied into the vats system
If the car now works, you likely have something wrong with the resistor on the key being read and passed along to the VATs sysem.
If it does not correct your issue, then you have something else going on.
If nothing else, it's a good diagnostic tool and being it's fully wired you just unplug the existing connector and plug this one in without any wiring cutting.

















