I have the transmission out of the car for an engine swap and want to upgrade the tranny. I’m on a very tight budget so my question is. Can enough parts from a rebuild kit be put in without having to purchase specialty tools or fabricate them? Would it be worth the cost of the kit to put as many parts in as possible? If so how much time will I need to spend on it? Should I just change the filter and oil and run it?
We have a shop called Master Rebuilders in St Paul, MN that advertises a rebuild for $500 on Craig’s list but there is no history that I have found on them to say they are reliable.

The patient: 1989 700R4
History: NONE
Rebuilt: Unknown
Miles: Could be as much as 175,000
Systems: Seems to still shift okay

 

I would think that you should have maybe a couple serious conversations with "locals" and base your decision on maybe those conversations. Not that you're interested in a "performance build" but maybe a conversation with a local speed shop and see who might be a recommended builder in the area. A "bench build" can sometimes be very inexpensive, you need to be concerned with the parts to be used and NOT maybe concerned with all of the "super" builds. Starting with the original core is a plus because then you know for starters that you've got the Corvette components.

DIY - I believe only you can decide or determine if it's a practical project.

Do you know that it's the original? The converter code tag would help identify it and you might be able to determine the transmission code from this pad:



Since you posted your "location" maybe someone can point you towards someone that could help.

 

I highly recommend you get a professional to rebuild your transmission, i have a lot of technical knowlege and was a mechanic myself and i leave auto transmissions alone.

You need a clean room to start with, precise measuring equipment and an in depth knowlege of transmissions. The shop manual will have a lot of information but leave it alone is all i can say.

You can easilly get into trouble and have to pay more to get it done properly.

 

I rebuilt a 1989 700r4 in my garage while I was unemployed and had lots of time and little money. See my thread on this:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...and-tools.html

My transmission failed about a year after I rebuilt it. I took it to a pro because I have taken the previous trans and this trans out 4 times (bad torque converter and other problems unrelated to the rebuild) and I just couldn't do it one more time. He told me the hub of the input drum was cracked. I believe it was cracked when I rebuilt it (my buddy was running this trans behind a 383 with MAJOR horsepower) but I didn't know what to look for and missed it. That is one good reason to take it to a pro -- they do this every day and know what to look for. They charged me $950 for the rebuild. That was the total price, which included a new input drum, new frictions and the seal kit.

If you do decide to have a pro do it I suggest calling TransGo tech support and asking them who they recommend in your area. TransGo does not have online or email tech support. You have to call them. They'll refer you to a rebuilder who knows what a performance trans rebuild looks like rather than the average trans rebuilder who does minivan transmissions every day.

If you do decide to rebuild it yourself, I highly recommend that you buy a transmission pressure gauge and monitor the pressure when you fire it up for the first time. I had missed the snap ring groove on the pump pressure regulator and had very low pressure, which I saw before I ever drove it (which would have wiped out the frictions). I also ran it through the gears with the rear tires off the ground. You can get a really reasonable pressure gauge from Bowtie Overdrives:

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata....php?ITEMID=53

 

A been there did that and the thoughts afterwards are certainly sometimes the "game changer" for someone anticipating a major DIY project. The suggestion to call TransGo is good also but just because someone uses their parts isn't indicative that it's to be considered a "go to" BUT I doubt they would refer you to someone that seems to have what they feel are "parts problems".

OP - you should be able to research the project enough so that you could ask intelligent questions and gauge your own thought on the builder from those responses.

 

Cliff
Have looked at the link and what a fantastic write up.
Instruction sheets never point out tips and tricks, just assembly order. If you had have known how critical the snap ring positioning was with step by step pictures, it would have saved you a lot of trouble on start up.

You have saved a people from the same pitfalls by posting your experiences.

We all know how well hair soaks up fluids, i remember limited slip differential oil on my (then long) hair. used a heap of OMO laundry powder dishwashing liquid shampoo and the smell stayed with me for a long time.

I got out of that trade and re skilled, trained to be a refrigeration mechanic. Clean work more money and freedom, on the road a lot with a fully serviced company vehicle. It just doesn't get any better that that

 

I thought the snap ring was in the correct position. What happens is that you are pushing in a stack of parts, including the pressure relief valve and some springs. You push on the stackup and the PR valve hangs up on a land and it won't go in any farther so you think you're done. The snap ring holds everything in place until the pressure hits and pushes it all back out. I have seen a bunch of posts where the poster found his stackup in the pan when he took it off, so this is a very common problem.

 

Yes great write up Cliff, I read it when you posted it a few weeks ago.

I was able to research Master Builders (the $500 rebuild) and only found one positive post out of about twenty so I won’t be using them anytime soon.

After watching many videos and reading posts I’m confident in my abilities enough to tackle the job myself. Naturally any tips and tricks from those who have already done it would be greatly appreciated.

Is Trans-Go the preferred choice for a rebuild kit and I assume I should put a shift kit in as well?

 

You might check this place out. Joe https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/home.php

 

I'd like to suggest this company, http://www.monstertransmission.com/. I had a little better luck than Cliff when I rebuilt my own trans but I had to make 2 or 3 tools myself that were just too pricy to buy for a one time project. When I went with a stronger engine I decided to get a new trans too. I bought Monster's version that will handle 500 horsepower and I really like the way it performs, nothing like my own rebuild. Their customer service is second to none also. They have asked me to do a video testimonial of their transmission and I plan on doing it soon. I would never do that if I was unhappy. You also get a free extended warranty if you buy a converter too.

 

As far as Trans-Go, they will tell you that if you can't handle the job, don't buy their product. They will give you NO help if you get stuck. However, I did buy and they make an excellent product.

 

I have pretty much removed every bolt and fastener on my C4 and have been in the transmission a number of times, but I stop if the project involves anything more than removing the valvebody. In my mind, that's what a competent professional is paid to do. Anyone can read a cookbook on how to fill a tooth or prep a tooth for a crown, but would you want someone who has never done the procedures before to do it for cheap? Or would you rather pay a professional like me to do the work so I can buy more car parts? Also, my greatest fear with an auto transmission rebuild is spending hours on the project, bolting it in and having it not shift right. At least if a pro did the job, you could have him fix it. If it's your project, you would have to pay a guy to recheck and redo your work, probably costing more than if you just broght the tranny to the pro in the first place. I'm not saying not to tackle the job. I'm just saying, in Clint Eastwood's words, "a mans got to know his limitations".

 

Willie I should have come to you this morning when I had oral surgery. Last broken/decayed wisdom had to come out and had to be put under for this one, expensive 15 minute nap. There went the transmission budget insurance wouldn't cover the anesthesia.

Going to pull the transmission out from under the car tomorrow and check to see if it the converter code tag is there/readable and also see if there is a rebuild tag on it so I know what I’m working with.

 

MY 1st,
I just pulled my 700R4 out last year in my 88 with 130,000 miles and took it to a local specialty rebuild shop that was recommended by my mechanic friend. Total cost was $1500 that included new slightly higher stall speed torque converter and multiple upgrades to the next generation E series plus a shift kit without killing my gas mileage. My 700R4 had a front pump leak and a rear shaft leak but worked fine otherwise. With a front pump leak, the trans fluid would drip onto the exhaust pipe and smoke. I just got tired of it, dropped it my self
(along with my mechanic friend) and had it rebuilt. Filled it with synthetic fluid. Drives like a new one and will take a good downshift that makes a mockery of my C6 A6.

 

I have built a few of the 700R4's and the last one I did (2013) I had a very difficult time finding "hard parts" for it. Especially a new reverse input drum. One ACDelco endplay shim washer took over 4 months to get here. The kit is only part of the equation. Every one I rebuilt had damaged or worn out "hard Parts" that don't come in any kit. I'm not trying to discourage anyone, just sayin'... some of the parts are discontinued and very hard to find.

 

Next time be a man and have it done without anesthesia. You may cry, but at least you would have transmission money.

 

Once the screaming, intense pain goes away it feels so good to have money in your pocket.

 

LOL, been there did that. (NEVER, NEVER, NEVER AGAIN) The older you get the more pain inflected. Anesthesia is the only way to go. Feel nothing, get home, have some soup, crack a beer and all is good.

More on the project latter. Yep going to tackle it myself, headed to the garage in a bit.

 

I'd take the time to attempt the ID of the one you're removing. It will make a difference. Check I guess first for the large cast V in the case on the bell-housing area of it and then the information that I posted in this thread a few ago. You mentioned the possibilities of many, many miles so maybe someone has been there with an off the shelf replacement.

 

WHAT FUN!! I'm a machinist.I assembled my L98 and have done many a Harley 4 speed.For an automotive automatic though I use the local rebuilder.For $2000 I attended a very detailed disassemblie of my 700/r4 and got to see all the new parts going in.A new HARDENED basket and upgraded(wider) bearings.Upon startup the rebuilder will come onsite/w trans fluid and pressure gage to do initial setup.

Make good friends/w a reputable builder
[img][/img]