Shocks on 1991 Corvette
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: NJ
Shocks on 1991 Corvette
New to the Vette world, since this is my 1st, I ordered new shocks since it has original shocks and they are 23yrs old. Was wondering if I will be able to replace fronts with out raising the car? Since I have never worked on a corvette before I am a little hesitant about jacking it up, and would rather not jack each corner as I work. I have noticed a few post saying front shock replacement can be done without jacking or wheel removal?
On the rear can I place floor jack under differential to raise both sides then us jack stands in factory jacking locations to access shocks?
Thanks for any advise!
On the rear can I place floor jack under differential to raise both sides then us jack stands in factory jacking locations to access shocks?
Thanks for any advise!
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New to the Vette world, since this is my 1st, I ordered new shocks since it has original shocks and they are 23yrs old. Was wondering if I will be able to replace fronts with out raising the car? Since I have never worked on a corvette before I am a little hesitant about jacking it up, and would rather not jack each corner as I work. I have noticed a few post saying front shock replacement can be done without jacking or wheel removal?
On the rear can I place floor jack under differential to raise both sides then us jack stands in factory jacking locations to access shocks?
Thanks for any advise!
On the rear can I place floor jack under differential to raise both sides then us jack stands in factory jacking locations to access shocks?
Thanks for any advise!
For the rears, you need to pull the wheels. The top of the shock bolts into a plate, which in turn bolts to the frame rail.
Which shocks did you order?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 230
Likes: 7
From: NJ
Thanks for all the help!
I bought this car 3 weeks ago, love driving the vette! but I think I will sell it to get a newer one, probable 1997+. Never owned one and always wanted one. So I got a deal on this '91. Also it allows me to do work on them so it gives me something to do that I always enjoyed. Its a 1991 base Vette with 88k mi that was painted last year, has new goodyear f1's, working ac, no rips in seats, nothing missing and all is working. Has 2 tops and original owners manual As well as dealer brochure for 1991 for the Vette. Paid 7800
I plan to clean it up, do all the maintenance that has been neglected for so many years, then hopefully sell at a price to come close to a break even point, then buy a 1997+ and start over again. Not doing this to make $$ but more of a hobby.
With that said the I bought a 4 KYB's from shock warehouse for like 130. I am assuming this will be better than the leaky 23 yr old Blisten's that are on there. Car is a daily driver now for the summer. Don't want to break the bank just wanted to update the ride quality. Next is pads & calipers so I can bleed the brakes since the current brake fluid is a nasty brown.
I bought this car 3 weeks ago, love driving the vette! but I think I will sell it to get a newer one, probable 1997+. Never owned one and always wanted one. So I got a deal on this '91. Also it allows me to do work on them so it gives me something to do that I always enjoyed. Its a 1991 base Vette with 88k mi that was painted last year, has new goodyear f1's, working ac, no rips in seats, nothing missing and all is working. Has 2 tops and original owners manual As well as dealer brochure for 1991 for the Vette. Paid 7800
I plan to clean it up, do all the maintenance that has been neglected for so many years, then hopefully sell at a price to come close to a break even point, then buy a 1997+ and start over again. Not doing this to make $$ but more of a hobby.
With that said the I bought a 4 KYB's from shock warehouse for like 130. I am assuming this will be better than the leaky 23 yr old Blisten's that are on there. Car is a daily driver now for the summer. Don't want to break the bank just wanted to update the ride quality. Next is pads & calipers so I can bleed the brakes since the current brake fluid is a nasty brown.
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Read up on the C5s here on the Forum before you buy one. I believe they have a "how to buy" in the stickies.
Can't remember where I read this but was told that the 2001 and up are better quality with fewer issues. The article also said not to be afraid of higher mileage C5s as long as the car has a good service history.
I hope you don't get burned on selling the 91 as you might have paid in the upper range for yours.
Good luck!
Can't remember where I read this but was told that the 2001 and up are better quality with fewer issues. The article also said not to be afraid of higher mileage C5s as long as the car has a good service history.
I hope you don't get burned on selling the 91 as you might have paid in the upper range for yours.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: NJ
Thanks for the advise, today I decided to try to remove the front shocks just to be sure I am able to when the new ones arrive. Right side ok, no prob. left side trouble getting the top nut to break free. also kinda stripped the top of the shock where you hold with adjustable wrench while you turn the top shock nut. So I was wondering, when the new shocks arrive, can I just use a cut the top shock stud where the nut is located? I would try to cut below the nut but if that's not possible I guess I could just saw thru the nut too?! What is the process of removing this nut on the front shocks if it just wont move?
Thanks for reading and thanks for any advise!
Thanks for reading and thanks for any advise!
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I always used the correct size wrench on the top (don't care for the adjustable wrench), but if it strips as many do I would try a pair of vice grips on it. As a last resort you can cut it but its some hard steel.
Good luck
Good luck
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: NJ
Thanks, but what is the correct size wrench for the nub on the top of the front shock. To be clear this is the little nub on the very top it is used to prevent the shock piston rod from turning as you turn the top shock nut that compresses the bushing and hold it in place. Was afraid to use vice grips since that may make it worse?!
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From: MICHIGAN
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From: Ypsilanti, MI
Thanks for the advise, today I decided to try to remove the front shocks just to be sure I am able to when the new ones arrive. Right side ok, no prob. left side trouble getting the top nut to break free. also kinda stripped the top of the shock where you hold with adjustable wrench while you turn the top shock nut. So I was wondering, when the new shocks arrive, can I just use a cut the top shock stud where the nut is located? I would try to cut below the nut but if that's not possible I guess I could just saw thru the nut too?! What is the process of removing this nut on the front shocks if it just wont move?
Thanks for reading and thanks for any advise!
Thanks for reading and thanks for any advise!
