84 passenger door doesnt close right
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 30
From: Granite City Illinois
84 passenger door doesnt close right
The passenger door on my 84 doesnt close right as easily as the drivers side.
From outside I push on it from below the center so theres a slight upward push, and keep my hand on it all the way through.
From inside it takes a hard pull and slam. Otherwise the ajar light stays on or will come back on.
From outside I can see where the trim doesnt line up if its not shut right.
When you open it from outside you do feel a sslight `slip` but havent seen any dropping.
Where do I start with this? Is it adjustable? Maybe just the striker?
From outside I push on it from below the center so theres a slight upward push, and keep my hand on it all the way through.
From inside it takes a hard pull and slam. Otherwise the ajar light stays on or will come back on.
From outside I can see where the trim doesnt line up if its not shut right.
When you open it from outside you do feel a sslight `slip` but havent seen any dropping.
Where do I start with this? Is it adjustable? Maybe just the striker?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Sounds like the pins in the hinges are shot. Could also be loose hinges so check the bolts.
Also check the door lock mechanism to make sure it didn't come loose and slip. Same with the striker bolt.
Also check the door lock mechanism to make sure it didn't come loose and slip. Same with the striker bolt.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I have had this situation (have to slam the door or it won't close all the way) on my driver's door since my car was new. I took it to the dealer when it was under warranty and asked them to fix it. They didn't.
I have been looking at this recently because it really bugs me. From what I could tell, the "stud" on the B pillar is not adjustable. I loosened it but it didn't move, so that's out. I loosened the bolts on the latch mechanism and that also appears to be non-adjustable. I noticed that the opening in the latch mechanism is worn at the top of the opening (it's hitting the stud) and also that the belt line strip on the door is lower than the strip on the front of the rear wheel well. From this I have concluded that my door is sagging and needs to be adjusted at the hinges.
If I grab the open door and try to wiggle it up and down it does not move, so I assume that the pins in the hinges are not worn (there is a thread on the Forum on replacing the pins). I think the only way to fix this (for me, anyway) is to loosen the hinge bolts and move the hinges. Haven't gotten any farther than that with it.
I have been looking at this recently because it really bugs me. From what I could tell, the "stud" on the B pillar is not adjustable. I loosened it but it didn't move, so that's out. I loosened the bolts on the latch mechanism and that also appears to be non-adjustable. I noticed that the opening in the latch mechanism is worn at the top of the opening (it's hitting the stud) and also that the belt line strip on the door is lower than the strip on the front of the rear wheel well. From this I have concluded that my door is sagging and needs to be adjusted at the hinges.
If I grab the open door and try to wiggle it up and down it does not move, so I assume that the pins in the hinges are not worn (there is a thread on the Forum on replacing the pins). I think the only way to fix this (for me, anyway) is to loosen the hinge bolts and move the hinges. Haven't gotten any farther than that with it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 30
From: Granite City Illinois
I couldnt feel or see any wiggle and you know it should be multiplied by the length of the door.
On my old car I could see it and feel it and had to lift up on the door to close it. To adjust the hinges on it the fender has to come off.I changed the hinges and got it pretty close but it has to have the fender come off to get it right.
I was hoping it wouldnt be that serious with this one
On yours is the belt line lower when its closed or when its open?
On my old car I could see it and feel it and had to lift up on the door to close it. To adjust the hinges on it the fender has to come off.I changed the hinges and got it pretty close but it has to have the fender come off to get it right.
I was hoping it wouldnt be that serious with this one
On yours is the belt line lower when its closed or when its open?
Last edited by ToniJ1960; May 4, 2014 at 05:21 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
If the door is sagging and the trim is not lining up, it's either bad hinges, or the bolts on the hinge are loose...You can get rebuilt hinges a few places online.... If it's just out of alignment the best was to adjust it is to use a floorjack and a piice of wood under the door.. Open the door about 8", place the floorjack with a wood block under the end of the door to hold the door in place, loosen the bolts enough so the door can move , then use the jack to move the door up a small amount, tighten a few bolts to secure the door, then lower the jack to check the door for proper alignment...You may have to do this a few times to get it perfect...You may also want to use a rag between the block of wood and the bottom of the door so you don't scratch anything.....
.. Also , I adjusted the door on my 89 without removing the fender.......WW
.. Also , I adjusted the door on my 89 without removing the fender.......WW
Last edited by WW7; May 4, 2014 at 08:52 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 11,889
Likes: 8
From: Whitefish Falls Ontario
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I would imagine that if you put a straight edge on the door and moved it to the point where it contacts the pin you will see a gap of 1/16" or more between the straight edge and the trim on the rear fender.. Follow WW7's suggestion to fix..
