Howdy Folks!!...

I searched for "Cold Start Injector" and drew a Goose egg on results. I have a 1988 Corvette... We replaced the injectors (among other things) for a "hard start when warm" and "rough idle when warm"... actually we replaced FRV, EGR, IAC, ECM and lastly the injectors. Before we button her up, we eyeballed the 9th inj. and wondered.... if this is bad, lets replace-rebuild it-delete it in that order. The 2 numbers I have are as follows: 17080402, and 17110860. If we can't find one, who rebuilds them? If that draws a zero.... How do you delete the darn thing?...

Thanks Folks
Fast Freddie

 

injectors rarely go bad, most likely, it just need a good cleaning and inlet filter. I would think Jon at FIC should be able to clean and service it for you. I have a NOS assembly, but not ready to part with it...

 

Hi Joe!!...
FIC said they couldn't rebuild it... I don't understand why. You would think that an injector is an injector.... obviously not...

Thank you for the "reply anyway...

Drive On!!...
Fast Freddie

 

few places rebuild car injectors places like fic who I trust fully and is a great guy test them run a cleaning aagent thru them and resale them. Seldom does the 9th injector cause a problem.

 

You can reprogram using 89 cold start values. After, you can remove it using one of many block off kits, or a 7/8" freeze plug fits, and an AN plug for back of rail.

 

that's odd - ??? if memory server me right, years ago, I had an injector outfit in Michigan clean and service the injectors on my old 85. paid for 8, and the 9th was a freebee. seems to me that after you separate it from the tube assembly, its just a plane old injector, with different inlet/outlet ports. - (for cleaning purposes) You would think that an injector is an injector....

http://chevythunder.com/cold_start_valve_parts.gif

 

Maybe it was Rich link

 

You should look at the cold start thermo switch on the front of the intake manifold. It has a connector that is the same as the fuel injector connectors:



Measure the switch with a DVM on the low ohms range (200 ohms). It should read closed (low resistance) when the coolant is cold and open (high resistance -- probably "OL" or "---", whatever your meter reads) when the coolant is hot.

The cold start system is only powered when the ignition is in the CRANK position, so it's hard to measure voltages. The thermo switch times out after 8 seconds and goes open. It also will be open if the coolant is over 95°F.

 

that's the place.

 

Well Fellas... I searched high n' low for the part, and it's not to be found... So after talking to a Corvette Specialist in Portland, he referred me to another outfit that can rebuild my injector. So that's th' plan... I called them and they said they could do it. So we'll see.
Thanks for all the "Replies"...

Fast Freddie

 

not to go OT, but I've been doing some on-line research on cleaning and servicing injectors. basically, there's really nothing to rebuild. on the basic multec, the service refers to a new inlet filter, and cleaning. if the coil resistance is in spec, a couple shots of cleaner thru the injector seems to be all that is needed. pop in a new filter, and you're off to the races. about the only variable at that point is the spray pattern.

I have my original multec's out of my 90, that i'm going to try and clean myself - I've never done this before, but looking at several youtube videos, this is something that can be done in a home shop. I bought an electrical connector, a push button switch, and a plug in wall transformer. i'm building a rig just to hold everything in place while I activate the injector coil, and spray the aerosol carb cleaner. I bought an on-line filter and o-ring kit for the multecs. doesn't look to be rocket science. here's a shot of what I have so far. i'm going to put something together to hold a catch bottle, and everything in place. looks like all that is needed is to activate the coil, a few shots of cleaner, and the same as a backflush. just playing around, on the one I tried, the spray pattern looks as good as any on-line pics. not sure carb cleaner is the best thing to use - still researching that. the new o-ring and filter kit was around $25. nothing ventured, nothing gained...

 

have you ohmed these injectors for resistance value? Most everyone I know that has these the coils go bad.

 

measured the resistance, and the average was right around 16 ohms across the board for all eight. the car seemed to be running fine before my injector swap - don't really think there was anything wrong with the originals. just did an upgrade to boschIII's while I had everything apart. I'm really doing this for the hell of it - just might learn something - BTW, my 90 only had 38K on the clock, and the injectors appeared to be the originals.