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Ok, the TPIS headers go in from the bottom, I'm trying to put on the one of the passanger side, how do I get it around the dipstick??? Can I take the dipstick off somehow or what. I know somebody out there has got the answer. Thanks
The dipstick does pull out, but first you need to unbolt one bolt that holds it in place. then pull it out. Make sure all the header bolt holes are large enough for the bolts to fit through. Mine had to be drilled out due to the coating made the holes smaller. Also check that the bolts with nut flanges will go through the holes at a 90 degree angle, and not cocked. I had to increase the dimples on several of the tubes to get the bolts to line up straight. You dont want to cross thread into alum heads. Look the headers over very carefully for the dimples from the factory. Then take a large socket (3/4) and bang it on its side on the dimple for more clearance. Keep all wires ty wraped or DEI asbestos wrapped, away from headers. I tried real hard and still melted one plug wire and one starter wire. Things/wires move once car is in motion.
ok where is this bolt that holds the dipstick holder in place? There's the one on the header wich is off, it there another. I looked around and couldn't see on at all. Don't forget we're talking about an lt1 now.
You will have to pull the dipstick. The only thing holding the dip stick tube in is the bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold. Since you already have this unbolted you may have to tap the tube out by tapping on the bracket or on the bulb part of the dip stick tube were it goes into the engine block with a screw driver.
Just twist and yank up wiggle back and forth it'll come out. Don't have your face over it though wouldn't want to shove it in your eye or up your nose! :eek:
Sorry, I can't post anything I've got nowhere on the internet to store them. The biggest hint I could give right now is be prepared to jack the car WAY up. 25" of clearance is a long way. I had to go to Home Depot and buy some cement landscaping blocks and I've got two of those stacked up and then the jackstands on top of those. My biggest problem was unbolting the dual Cats on the LT1 which you shouldn't have on your 88. But I've heard the L98 heads create a need to fix some stuff. Good luck.
advice #2 Figure out if you want to keep your EGR system before you start messing around with stuff. TPIS says that you need a different EGR tube but I don't see how. But I'm just going to get rid of mine all togther. You can plug the holes with GM part # 00445096. I looked all around town and this is the only thing with the right threading.
Yes, the hole on top of each of the headers for the EGR system to plug into. That part number is basically a bolt that will screw in there instead blocking up the hole. It's pretty :cool: that GM made a part to fit that :yesnod:
A word of warning!!! I had to modify your cat back to get them to fit. The drivers side comes up and overlaps with the header about 4 inches. I did go to a muffler shop and had them make me two custom pieces to go in there after I cut back the drivers side and it cost me $20 for those.
mn_vette, how much did the headers cost ya? And what would you rate the installation difficulty as? I dont know if I should try to install myself or have someone do it for me?
mn_vette, how much did the headers cost ya? And what would you rate the installation difficulty as? I dont know if I should try to install myself or have someone do it for me?
Headers: $700
EGR block off plates: $24
Custom exhaust peices: $20
Cinder blocks(solid) for under jackstands: $15
Dremel cutting blades: $12
EGR block off bolts: $6
The chance to hear your car run with open headers: priceless :D
The install wasn't too bad. unbolt the headers, unbolting the cats was a pain, but I had to cut off support brackets to get the longtubes in there so I felt kind of dumb unbolting them, just cut off the brackets. Then drop the exhaust and repeat the process, nothing too dificult that you can't do without a ratchet and a dremel.