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In retaliation of some C5's I have to deal with, I went back to the 150 shot for now.
I don't have the dyno sheet yet, put I believe it pulled 400rwhp, It runs like an animal.
I now remember why I pulled it down to 100 in the first place, it feels too fast. I will be spraying less than I did with the 100 shot. I hope I can keep the engine together long enough to install the heads/cam and now LT Headers.
That's what he is claiming! And 430 with a 100 shot.
Not to flame, but I have NEVER seen a LT-1 dyno those kind of numbers without getting into the motor. Do you have something else that is not listed in your signature? It would almost be unbelievable for a LS-1 or LT-4 to dyno those numbers with those mods.
That's what he is claiming! And 430 with a 100 shot.
Not to flame, but I have NEVER seen a LT-1 dyno those kind of numbers without getting into the motor. Do you have something else that is not listed in your signature? It would almost be unbelievable for a LS-1 or LT-4 to dyno those numbers with those mods.
What's in my sig are the things I have done. No clue what was done before. If anything. The dyno guy said the same things as you are saying. He had seen some 300's, but not any 330's. All I could say was "I dunno" I have never looked around to see if anything had been done by the previous owner. I just took the #'s for what they were and went on my way. The car was only dyno'ed on the one occasion, and that was th NOS install. I guess I can just take what the tuner says, or, dyno it somewhere else.
The easiest way to tell if you have an aftermarket cam is to listen to the idle. Does your car have a lope to it when it idles? Have you compared to another stock vette before? With your mods the car should idle just like a stocker. The for sure way is to pull out the actual cam.
The easiest way to tell if you have head work is to first look for CNC engraved logo in front of the heads, but that is only if your heads were CNC ported. You still have to pull off a few parts to do this. Or you could pull off the intake manifold and look or feel to see if the intake ports have been altered. That is the way I would probably do it to make sure. Because a lot of shops or individuals hand port the heads with a grinder.
Either way, Some work has to be done. My quess is that you have head work done, with a stock cam. The head will not change the idle characteristics of the car, but it will make it scream when you jump on it.
:bb I'm here on 95AquaC4's behalf to let you guys know that he was off with his numbers. It seems that when his car was dynoed, he was told that it had the 100 shot, .061 jet in, when he really had the 150 shot, .067 jet in. So his numbers are off a it. Looks as if he would have about 280 RWHP on the motor, and around 380 RWHP with the 100 shot. The numbers he shows in his signature are from the 150 shot. I'm hoping I got this all right, we talked about it on the Nextel, and I hope I got all he said. Just here to set it straight per his request. Later! :seeya
Yes, thanks for representing. Turns out I am spraying the 150 shot not the 100 :eek: . This has never been questioned before, so thanks to zelement for actually questioning the #'s. Good thing I never went with a bigger jet huh? Anyway, after mis-reading everything on my dyno sheet the rwhp without the juice is 280.2. Sound a bit better? Dissapointing on my end, but I rather know that now before I went any bigger on the nitrous jet. Anyway thanks again for questioning the numbers,(I finally got off my **** and researched it) and thaks to 93TorchRedC4 for helping me to set it all straight!! whew!!
No problem! Too bad you don't have heads and cam, I was hoping you did. Good thing you didn't go up in jetting also, that would have been bad. I see you are using a dry shot, and it's making a tremendous amount of power. How does it feel in SOTP?