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Hello, I have a 1985 Corvette non Z51 that I use for street/strip drag racing and occasionally like to have some fun around the turns. I was told that 5* of positive caster will do very well on the C4s. I was just wondering if there is a better caster angle? I don't want to touch toe or camber because my tires don't last long as it is and I need them for traction too.
Any input on this?
Thanks!
Last edited by DanielRicany; May 19, 2014 at 08:59 PM.
Set your caster to provide the feed back that you prefer. Less caster aids "turn in" but hurts straight line stability, more caster improves tracking/centering, but makes the car "feel" like it is reluctant to dive into a corner. There isn't a "magical number" that "works best". Personal preference.
For my perception of your use, I'd recommend that you align it to stock specs.
How do the front tires help you when you "Need them for traction too"?
Last edited by Tom400CFI; May 19, 2014 at 11:04 PM.
I think the factory spec for your '85 is 3 deg. caster (as it is for my '84). My steering felt a little vague, and I wanted more self-centering. Later 'vettes are spec'd at 5 deg. so decided to try the same. I was surprised at the improvement for such a small change! All of the components in my front end were in good shape, so that's the only change I made. Overall handling is still awsome!
Vette Brakes has some alignment values for the C4 for street, autocross and track use. A good starting place will be the specs for "Advanced Street".
Get a reputable shop to set the car up with the Advanced Street settings and then you can go from there. Note that there is no rear wheel caster setting. And it does not really do any good to try setting a caster value. Setting camber and toe are part of the alignment process and all 3 values need to be set and checked. Same for toe and camber at the rear.
Also, it wold be a good idea to have new (or newer) shocks, and the sway bars should have bushings in good condition prior to an alignment.
You should also check the condition of the various suspension components; ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack and the bushings should all be in decent condition to get an accurate alignment. If any of these pieces are worn out, an alignment now would be a waste of money. A good alignment shop will tell you if any pieces need to be replaces.
Vette Brakes has some alignment values for the C4 for street, autocross and track use. A good starting place will be the specs for "Advanced Street".
Get a reputable shop to set the car up with the Advanced Street settings and then you can go from there. Note that there is no rear wheel caster setting. And it does not really do any good to try setting a caster value. Setting camber and toe are part of the alignment process and all 3 values need to be set and checked. Same for toe and camber at the rear.
Also, it wold be a good idea to have new (or newer) shocks, and the sway bars should have bushings in good condition prior to an alignment.
You should also check the condition of the various suspension components; ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack and the bushings should all be in decent condition to get an accurate alignment. If any of these pieces are worn out, an alignment now would be a waste of money. A good alignment shop will tell you if any pieces need to be replaces.
Daniel, first thing first. Get you motor right before you worry about going fast through corners.
Understanding you have many more stars in your ID box than I, it must be said there are many cars that handle well and out perform cars with more hp under the hood. If a car can brake, handle and turn better than the same car with more hp, it will turn faster lap times on an auto-X track because it will be able to put the power available to good use.
I don't think that 383 was implying that more hp will make the car faster on a road course (something the OP doesn't even partake in)
Rather, I think 383 was saying that the OP needs to prioritize his issues; he's got another thread going on where he believes he has an engine problem. I think 383 is saying, "get that sorted before worrying about other, less important items.
I don't think that 383 was implying that more hp will make the car faster on a road course (something the OP doesn't even partake in)
Rather, I think 383 was saying that the OP needs to prioritize his issues; he's got another thread going on where he believes he has an engine problem. I think 383 is saying, "get that sorted before worrying about other, less important items.
I don't think that 383 was implying that more hp will make the car faster on a road course (something the OP doesn't even partake in)
Rather, I think 383 was saying that the OP needs to prioritize his issues; he's got another thread going on where he believes he has an engine problem. I think 383 is saying, "get that sorted before worrying about other, less important items.
I don't think that 383 was implying that more hp will make the car faster on a road course (something the OP doesn't even partake in)
Rather, I think 383 was saying that the OP needs to prioritize his issues; he's got another thread going on where he believes he has an engine problem. I think 383 is saying, "get that sorted before worrying about other, less important items.
I'd agree.
Oh boy........
Daniel.
Fill us in on your other issues......the last thread you had we discussed "what is holding your car back" , this and that...........all the way to tuning issues.......then you discuss you had $10K into a car that was not "fast."
I think the factory spec for your '85 is 3 deg. caster (as it is for my '84). My steering felt a little vague, and I wanted more self-centering. Later 'vettes are spec'd at 5 deg. so decided to try the same. I was surprised at the improvement for such a small change! All of the components in my front end were in good shape, so that's the only change I made. Overall handling is still awsome!
Yes more positive caster helps the self centering and wander on uneven roads.
DANIEL
Keep the camber as factory unless you are going to spend the majority of the time on the race track, yes 1 or 2 degrees negative camber really helps on a track but the tire wear and the wheel being pulled with uneven roads is something you have to consider.
I am only running a fraction or negative camber and i have no trouble going around bends, get some nice sticky tires and big brakes first
Do some track work and see how well the C4 can handle, the only thing i do not like is the too direct steering rack
At first if you start to slide you will always over correct and slide of the track it gets worse the more you try to correct it, UNTIL you learn to "limit the amount of oposite lock" It takes time but when you have the hang of it you can do some realy good power slides out of a corner.
But hey everyone knows the fastest was around a course is by not sliding around, that is where sticky tires and great adjustable shock absorbers come in.
Last edited by gerardvg; May 20, 2014 at 09:52 PM.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by gerardvg
But hey everyone knows the fastest was around a course is by not sliding around, that is where sticky tires and great adjustable shock absorbers come in.
Finally!!!
Someone that understands the value of shocks, tires,
and rear suspensions
Last edited by JrRifleCoach; May 20, 2014 at 10:34 PM.