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Problem finding u-joints for my half shafts 92 Vette

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Old May 20, 2014 | 07:22 AM
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Default Problem finding u-joints for my half shafts 92 Vette

For some reason I can't seem to find a vendor that sells Spicer u-joints for my 92 half shafts. Any help?
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Strick
For some reason I can't seem to find a vendor that sells Spicer u-joints for my 92 half shafts. Any help?
That is one of the more popular u-joints that Spicer sells 5-1350X for those that don't mind using the non-coated joints and 5-3615X for the coated joints. The newer coated are harder to find for sure. Try an older Spicer part number 5-800X and that is for the coated.

Look for someone that does drive-line work, balancing drive-shafts etc. A truck fleet wholesaler could help. I'd avoid the Internet purchases from the usual recommendations here or elsewhere.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 07:59 AM
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Well I found some MOOG (made in USA) u-joints. They are w/anti-galvanic coating.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Strick
Well I found some MOOG (made in USA) u-joints. They are w/anti-galvanic coating.
I thought most or all MOOG were fitted with fitting for lubrication. Are the ones you purchased "solid"? That information and part # if they're solid could be very useful to most all.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 12:42 PM
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Default U-Joints

According to RockAuto a 92 takes the MOOG/PRECISION Part # 231C for the half shafts and MOOG/PRECISION Part # 269 for the drive shaft (non-greasable Moogs).
The half shaft ones are coated while the drive shaft ones aren't. Both are non-greasable, $25 and $12 ea.

I used the same ones on the half shafts of my 86 a month or so. US made, non greasable and have lifetime warranty with a couple of conditions. I have no complaints on the ones I put in.

Half-shaft info at: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...611&cc=1041310
Driveshaft info at: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...687&cc=1041310

Hope that helps.

PS - Mine had Spicer solids in it when I purchased it. The needle bearings were pretty much gone in a couple of the crossshafts and others were full of rust.

If you are nervous as I was doing the halfshafts, take a look at the tool I made for the hydraulic press to remove them. Took alot of pressure off me knowing there was little chance of bending a yoke accidentally.

Last edited by hcbph; May 23, 2014 at 12:53 PM.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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I agree they are hard to find, but I found some at my local Inland Truck Parks dealership. They were in-stock.

I may have posted which part they had in another thread (coated/non-coated). I bought them last fall...probably Oct of 2013. Seems I might have read that buying coated isn't that big of a deal and/or factory joints are non-coated. (I'm at work, so I can't review my threads.)
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Old May 23, 2014 | 04:30 PM
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I got mine from dennys driveshaft service. The 1350's $20.00 each. and the 1310's $15.95 each. All 6 with shipping about $129.00. Got them in 3 days. Rklessdriver has used them as well.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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Another good source!
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Old May 23, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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I like your idea. That tool is great. I have screwed up a half shaft before, think I'll build one so I have it next time and won't get in a rush. Thanks.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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I bought the Precision ones at AutoZone so you can stand toe to toe with someone if you wish. Go ahead and get the non greasable U-joints. I dont think the strength issue comes into play for most of us here but the zerks are absolutely unreachable. As a bit of preventative maintenance go ahead and tighten your C beam bolts while the shaft is out.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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I found some Moog U-joints made in USA.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ANTI VENOM
I like your idea. That tool is great. I have screwed up a half shaft before, think I'll build one so I have it next time and won't get in a rush. Thanks.
Here's a short writeup I did on that tool along with a mod to the Gadgeman's jack adapter: http://www.corvetteforum.guru/module...=19747&forum=1

I looked at the Tigertool u-joint tool and it was good, expensive but good and hard to justify for doing 4 u-joints at that time. Being I already had a hydraulic press it ended up costing me about $10 to make it. A little thinking and a little designing and that's what developed.
Like you, I was worried about doing the aluminum half-shafts and fearing I might bend the yokes, this was my solution. It ended up working perfectly for me. Best $10 I've ever spent, because like you I screwed up the first driveshaft I did back in the 60's.

Last edited by hcbph; Jun 7, 2014 at 09:24 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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I had a hard time finding Spicer's for my'93. I went to a Fleet Pride parts chain as listed by Spicer on there website. I ordered the 5-3615X for the half shafts and strap kit 3-70-48X which is a metric kit so don't use them on the regular drive shaft. The driveshaft is 5-3615x and uses 2-70-18X strap kit which is S.A.E. bolts. These are the coated ones for aluminum drive shafts and the oem part that is why they are more expensive to. The ones were out of stock and would not be available unit July. I was able to track down another vender which had both.

Denny's Driveshaft in New York and they make driveshaft to for vehicles according to Denny whom I did talk to up to 2500 hp. You can order off there website: www.DennysDriveshaft.com

He only takes phone calls in early morning. I received excellent service, not sure if he is sponsor or not here on the forum.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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i just went thru this i promise these are good numbers Neapco 2-0617 bf, persion/ moog 231c. these are coated joints if you do not mind coated Neapco 2-0053.
You also might want to look at my post on ujoin half shaft i posted yesterday.I promise this will save you tons of time
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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I had a hard time finding anyone that has coated U-joints for our half shafts. Finally I found a pair on Rock Auto. They are AC Delco #45u0400. These I can get in a few days. All others were back ordered and my Vette is sitting up on jack stands. BTW, when I took the driver's side half shaft off and pressed out the outboard u-joint, it had no needle bearings and the cap was cracked. No wonder I had a clanking noise.
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