tension pulley locked up
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 23
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tension pulley locked up
After running through an automatic car wash the belt tensioner pulley froze up and the serpentine belt broke. I didn't realize what happened until my temperature went up to 275. I immediately shut car down and cooled engine down. I put new belt and pulley on and car seems to run normally but I'm just worried about what might have happened internally
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Depends a lot on if you have aluminum or iron heads. 260* is generally considered red line but if you caught it quick enough hopefully everything will be fine. Keep an eye on the oil for water intrusion, rad for oil intrusion, watch temps for overly quick rise during acceleration and misfires that resemble an engine out of time. All these would indicate a bad head gasket or cracked head.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
seems to be OK
Been driving every day and she's running in the 185-210 range like she always did. No oil or coolant intrusion. Should I go ahead and change coolant and oil mobil1 synthetic? I think oil temp reached 235-240 range on the digital gauge. Car has aluminum heads. Completely stock. 168k runs great. Neverneedy any
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
seems to be OK
Been driving every day and she's running in the 185-210 range like she always did. No oil or coolant intrusion. Should I go ahead and change coolant and oil mobil1 synthetic? I think oil temp reached 235-240 range on the digital gauge. Car has aluminum heads. Completely stock. 168k runs great.
Always maintained. Up until boilover.
Always maintained. Up until boilover.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
I've seen my "built" motor go that high before....alum heads...same L98 you have, just bigger.
Scared the livin crap outta me !
Actually done it a couple times....no problems afterward.
When/if that does happen, I ALWAYS allow it to cool slowly.......never give it water. NEVER. Just walk away and let it cool slowly...by itself.
Rapid cooling is what causes cracks and at least warping.
Because it is impossible to cool the whole block & aluminum heads together at the same time. Something is slower and that causes enough stress to crack!
IF it needs coolant, WAIT until its near stone cold before adding ANYTHING. Temps that high create a very delicate situation and great caution MUST be exercised...or you risk hearing.....TINK ! only one....little TINK. That's what a crack sounds like as it happens.
If mine fries from a bad hose or whatever,...I just wait. usually takes an hour for my heart-beat to return to normal anyway...
Let it sit until its cool enough to work on, then start up to add water when its below the normal op temp of 180-190. This time of year my normal op temp (a/c in traffic, 95 degree day) jumps up to 225....but its stable there in the worst conditions. I still won't add coolant till its less than that. Lots less. Being in a hurry can easily cost $5000.
Re: oil and coolant change....
IIWM, no. Stick to the regular schedule. The oil will handle it, the coolant will too. I WOULD go thru the cooling system and see if the hoses and rad are in good condition and I would also pull the shroud to clean the leaves out to optimize the airflow and cooling effect. Be sure whatever caused this, is fixed so it can be forgotten.
Scared the livin crap outta me !
Actually done it a couple times....no problems afterward.
When/if that does happen, I ALWAYS allow it to cool slowly.......never give it water. NEVER. Just walk away and let it cool slowly...by itself.
Rapid cooling is what causes cracks and at least warping.
Because it is impossible to cool the whole block & aluminum heads together at the same time. Something is slower and that causes enough stress to crack!
IF it needs coolant, WAIT until its near stone cold before adding ANYTHING. Temps that high create a very delicate situation and great caution MUST be exercised...or you risk hearing.....TINK ! only one....little TINK. That's what a crack sounds like as it happens.
If mine fries from a bad hose or whatever,...I just wait. usually takes an hour for my heart-beat to return to normal anyway...
Let it sit until its cool enough to work on, then start up to add water when its below the normal op temp of 180-190. This time of year my normal op temp (a/c in traffic, 95 degree day) jumps up to 225....but its stable there in the worst conditions. I still won't add coolant till its less than that. Lots less. Being in a hurry can easily cost $5000.
Re: oil and coolant change....
IIWM, no. Stick to the regular schedule. The oil will handle it, the coolant will too. I WOULD go thru the cooling system and see if the hoses and rad are in good condition and I would also pull the shroud to clean the leaves out to optimize the airflow and cooling effect. Be sure whatever caused this, is fixed so it can be forgotten.
Last edited by leesvet; Jun 4, 2014 at 06:06 PM.
