1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 787
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1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips?
I started this last weekend, but gave up as it looked more complicated than I thought. I have the 1995 Service Manual, and did not see anything there.
The passenger side (plugs and wires) looks OK, but not the driver's side.
It looks as though I'll have to remove the ASR box to gain access to the plugs. It also looks like I'll have to remove the altenator and AC to gain access to the wire attachment to the Optispark.
Please tell me it's not as complicated as I perceive it!
Thanks,
Joey
The passenger side (plugs and wires) looks OK, but not the driver's side.
It looks as though I'll have to remove the ASR box to gain access to the plugs. It also looks like I'll have to remove the altenator and AC to gain access to the wire attachment to the Optispark.
Please tell me it's not as complicated as I perceive it!
Thanks,
Joey
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 1
From: Pinellas Florida Misfit
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: 1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips? (cOvette)
Not going to lie to you.. it's as difficult as you see it, it takes some time, esp your 1st trip through.
On the passenger side, the wires are simple, the rear 2 plugs can be a bear. Make sure you have various size extensions and a swivel.. a spark plug socket with a hex head on it is good to have also. Some like to take the inner fender wells out to gain access.
On the driver side... the ASR unit comes off with 3 bolts and just flips out of the way... easy enough to get off. The plugs arent bad, but again, various size extensions will help out here.
The wires on the driver size are ran under the power steering pump bracket, then up under the alternator. Some folks on here say you can get them from under the car without removing anything, but unless the car is on a lift, I don't see how. I ended up taking the alternator and idler tensioner off... and loosening the bolts on the PS pump bracket. (didn't touch the AC) Once they are out of the way it's a free shot at the opti. Wasn't bad.. just takes time.
[Modified by Springer's 95, 12:21 PM 7/22/2002]
On the passenger side, the wires are simple, the rear 2 plugs can be a bear. Make sure you have various size extensions and a swivel.. a spark plug socket with a hex head on it is good to have also. Some like to take the inner fender wells out to gain access.
On the driver side... the ASR unit comes off with 3 bolts and just flips out of the way... easy enough to get off. The plugs arent bad, but again, various size extensions will help out here.
The wires on the driver size are ran under the power steering pump bracket, then up under the alternator. Some folks on here say you can get them from under the car without removing anything, but unless the car is on a lift, I don't see how. I ended up taking the alternator and idler tensioner off... and loosening the bolts on the PS pump bracket. (didn't touch the AC) Once they are out of the way it's a free shot at the opti. Wasn't bad.. just takes time.
[Modified by Springer's 95, 12:21 PM 7/22/2002]
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 72
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From: Baltimore MD
Re: 1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips? (Springer's 95)
I just did this myself. The funny thing is - it's exactly the opposite of what you think. The passenger side is the real bear and the driver's side isn't too bad once you flip the ASR out of the way. I recommend starting with the passenger side. That way you'll be pleasantly surprised when you get around to the other.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,524
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From: Pinellas Florida Misfit
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: 1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips? (TealBlueEyes)
Nope... I know what I typed is what I did. I had the entire driver side and 1,3,5 plugs out on the passenger side quicker then I got 7 out by itself. You may of had an easier time on it then others, but search the forums, you'll see quite a few posts asking out to get the rear plugs out... typically it's the right rear.
Now on the driver side, the plug wires are much more difficult then passenger side wires... with the passenger side wires, you don't need to remove a thing to get them.
Now on the driver side, the plug wires are much more difficult then passenger side wires... with the passenger side wires, you don't need to remove a thing to get them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Re: 1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips? (cOvette)
No doubt about it, the first time through is the worst! You can get to the drivers side wires from underneath the car - you just need to get the car very high (preferrably on a lift). If you can get the car high on jackstands or a lift of some sort, look on the drivers side of the oil pan and you'll see all of the wires going into the opti. Start at the bottom wire and take your time - it'll eventually get done. The biggest PITA plugs for me were #7 & #8 (naturally). I almost stripped these plugs getting them out and I'm positive that the previous owner of the car never changed them. Now you know why the local dealer charges $300.00 to do this job. Also, be careful when working with the plastic wire looms - they get brittle and can break easily. Good luck! :)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 792
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From: San Jose CA
Re: 1995 LT1 Spark Plug Change. Tips? (TealBlueEyes)
Just did mine myself this past weekend. I agree that the driver side was easier once you removed all that was mentioned above. The BEST thing was removing the tire and A-arm splash gaurd and right inner wheel well.
Just take your time and if you can remove someting to gain better access, do it.
One the driver side I was under the car while my brother reached in from the top, he did the top two from the top and I did the bottom two from the bottom, worked out really easy to do it this way.
Just take your time and if you can remove someting to gain better access, do it.
One the driver side I was under the car while my brother reached in from the top, he did the top two from the top and I did the bottom two from the bottom, worked out really easy to do it this way.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: Raynham Massachusetts
In addition to the above tips, especially removing the access panels in the wheel wells and a swivel head ratchet, I found using the "superman" approach was also key to getting #6 and 8 (passenger side) plugs swapped out was essential. The superman (also learned here on a different post) is laying across the engine which allows you to reach down with both hands and thread the plugs in. Just my two cents.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
Getting the plugs out was no big deal. Getting the new ones started was a royal PITA. I read a tip here to cut off one of the straight boots and use it to help guide the plug in ( sort of like a flexible extension). Worked like a charm.
No matter what you remove you are going to use words you didn't know were in your vocabulary when you start changing driver's side wires. Make sure you hear 2 distinct clicks when you push each wire onto the optispark. Be careful not to pull either vent line off the bottom of the optispark. When you pull a wire out, carefully observe the routing. They disappear in this black hole and come out somewhere near the optispark.
Good luck.
No matter what you remove you are going to use words you didn't know were in your vocabulary when you start changing driver's side wires. Make sure you hear 2 distinct clicks when you push each wire onto the optispark. Be careful not to pull either vent line off the bottom of the optispark. When you pull a wire out, carefully observe the routing. They disappear in this black hole and come out somewhere near the optispark.
Good luck.
Last edited by csthews; Mar 3, 2016 at 12:08 AM.
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Race Director
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Loosen the power steering pump and move it forward to get the wire in the hell hole. Pull the inter wheel covers. And get a $20 stanley ratchet that the handle twists to turn for the back pass side. Do one wire at a time and pay attention to the looms.
Damn just noticed Fan66 just answered a thread from 2002. He is done it by now.
Welcome to the forum Fan66 please stop that. LMAO
Damn just noticed Fan66 just answered a thread from 2002. He is done it by now.
Welcome to the forum Fan66 please stop that. LMAO
Last edited by antfarmer2; Mar 3, 2016 at 11:00 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 59
From: Trieste Italy
Once you have done it, you will see ii is simply, to remove access panels is required, and i have find that an easy job workin with hand palm facing up-legs squat down
At least for 6-8-7-5 spark plug.
Wires never done
At least for 6-8-7-5 spark plug.
Wires never done
Last edited by Christi@n; Mar 3, 2016 at 03:41 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: Raynham Massachusetts
Loosen the power steering pump and move it forward to get the wire in the hell hole. Pull the inter wheel covers. And get a $20 stanley ratchet that the handle twists to turn for the back pass side. Do one wire at a time and pay attention to the looms.
Damn just noticed Fan66 just answered a thread from 2002. He is done it by now.
Welcome to the forum Fan66 please stop that. LMAO
Damn just noticed Fan66 just answered a thread from 2002. He is done it by now.
Welcome to the forum Fan66 please stop that. LMAO
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Sorry about that antfarmer2. 😩 I thought adding a quick comment to an older post wouldn't spur any action. Yes, I hope by now the original poster finished his plug swap. On a better note, just purchased a 95 convertible as a birthday gift from my wife. Looking forward to all the great advice available on this site. Thanks and sorry to get off topic.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,649
Likes: 863
First off - Welcome to the Forum...
Changing Spark Plugs on LT1/LT4 motors just ain't fun - but in my own opinion - the plug wires are worse. So - buy good long life (read double platinum or Iridium plugs), so you don't have to do the job again anytime soon.
I've had "decent" luck getting #8 (and sometimes #6) plug(s) from below the car - make sure you have a spark plug socket that has a hex on the back end of it - so it can be turned by either a ratchet or a wrench.
As for plug wires - the hard part of the job is doing the driver side - where the wires run to the optispark. The last time I did the job - I pulled the serp. belt tensioner assembly - but that is a PITA to reinstall - as you're working blind trying to get the dowel pin to fit back in the hole, and getting the mounting bolt lined up right. If you were to pull the water pump - the job would be easy - but that brings a host of it's own problems. Plan on about 6 - 8 hours to do plugs and wires the first time - and don't be afraid to walk away for a few minutes when you run into problems. BTW - installing the 8.5mm MSD wires make the job even harder - ask me how I know this....
Changing Spark Plugs on LT1/LT4 motors just ain't fun - but in my own opinion - the plug wires are worse. So - buy good long life (read double platinum or Iridium plugs), so you don't have to do the job again anytime soon.
I've had "decent" luck getting #8 (and sometimes #6) plug(s) from below the car - make sure you have a spark plug socket that has a hex on the back end of it - so it can be turned by either a ratchet or a wrench.
As for plug wires - the hard part of the job is doing the driver side - where the wires run to the optispark. The last time I did the job - I pulled the serp. belt tensioner assembly - but that is a PITA to reinstall - as you're working blind trying to get the dowel pin to fit back in the hole, and getting the mounting bolt lined up right. If you were to pull the water pump - the job would be easy - but that brings a host of it's own problems. Plan on about 6 - 8 hours to do plugs and wires the first time - and don't be afraid to walk away for a few minutes when you run into problems. BTW - installing the 8.5mm MSD wires make the job even harder - ask me how I know this....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
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From: St. Charles MO
Okay, since this topic was already resurrected from the dead, I have a question. My 96 LT4 has Hooker long-tube headers. I was able to change all but one plug without too much trouble. The #7 plug (driver's side rear plug closest to firewall) is easy to see and touch, but the header primary routes right over the end of the plug. There is room to get the wire boot on and off but not to get any kind of socket onto it. And I don't think a box wrench will reach into the well deeply enough to get onto the hex. Any hints?
What I really need is a wrench that has a shallow socket-like end that isn't closed on the back side. I guess I could cut the back off of a 5/8" socket and have someone weld it to a 5/8" box wrench for a custom tool if I have to. Maybe such a tool already exists, but I don't even know what to call it?
What I really need is a wrench that has a shallow socket-like end that isn't closed on the back side. I guess I could cut the back off of a 5/8" socket and have someone weld it to a 5/8" box wrench for a custom tool if I have to. Maybe such a tool already exists, but I don't even know what to call it?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 59
From: Trieste Italy
Okay, since this topic was already resurrected from the dead, I have a question. My 96 LT4 has Hooker long-tube headers. I was able to change all but one plug without too much trouble. The #7 plug (driver's side rear plug closest to firewall) is easy to see and touch, but the header primary routes right over the end of the plug. There is room to get the wire boot on and off but not to get any kind of socket onto it. And I don't think a box wrench will reach into the well deeply enough to get onto the hex. Any hints?
What I really need is a wrench that has a shallow socket-like end that isn't closed on the back side. I guess I could cut the back off of a 5/8" socket and have someone weld it to a 5/8" box wrench for a custom tool if I have to. Maybe such a tool already exists, but I don't even know what to call it?
What I really need is a wrench that has a shallow socket-like end that isn't closed on the back side. I guess I could cut the back off of a 5/8" socket and have someone weld it to a 5/8" box wrench for a custom tool if I have to. Maybe such a tool already exists, but I don't even know what to call it?
