Whenever i go to my car and its not warmed up it doesn't start. it justs clicks until about 20 trys then it will usually turns over could this be the starter or the starter silenoid

 

Not to scare you, just to share my experience. Not that this is your issue but keep it in the back of your mind. Knowledge is key!

I had a similar issue turn the car over and it just clicked hard but did not start.
After several weeks of this and replacing the starter, I went to the shop. Turns out I had two blown head gaskets and water was leaking into the cylinders and when I would turn it over the motor would compress the water until it emptied out the cylinder. After several try's it would start and run fine.
I guess the tip off would have been that there was small amounts of steam coming out of the tail pipes.


[Modified by blk91, 11:43 AM 7/22/2002]

 

This sounds like the starter solenoid is on its way out (assuming its not the problem in previous post). Your LT1 has the lightweight Japanese starter in it. You'll have to go a Toyota (yes Toyota) dealership to get the parts for the solenoid. Here is a picture of the parts:



I would take the starter to the dealer to be sure they get the parts matched up correctly. The cover for the solenoid is a metal plate with 4 short screws holding it on and has the positive battery terminal and solenoid connector assy bolted to it.

The plunger can be reused. Just file down the outer ring so that the side that contacts the solenoid connections is flat. It should be good for another 70K miles or 5000 starts. Parts will cost about 20 bucks.

 

It takes a good electrical connection to your battery to supply the 100+ amps the starter motor draws. Measure the battery volts when attempting a crank. Actually put your voltmeter on the cable lugs, not on the battery terminal bolts and have someone attempt a crank. The voltage should not fall lower than 9.0 volts or you have a poor connection or a battery that is discharged, or at the end of its life. It is worthwhile to remove the battery cables and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and reconnect. Disconnect the ground first and reconnect the ground last.
If it still only clicks, then measure the volts at the starter from starter case to the large bolt on the starter, this will tell you that the electrical connection to the starter is good. If the voltage is below 9.0 volts, then I would suspect the large wire on the starter (poor connection) , or the ground connection from the battery to the frame and the connection from the negative battery terminal to the LH side of the rear of the heads. If you have all the connections good, then suspect the starter and remove it and have it tested at a parts store that does this.

 

Good point jfb. Follow his instructions on the cabling first.

 

Just went thru this same tthing on my 96. The starter got stuck engaged at one point also. It finally truned off on it's own. The Last Detailed has them brand new OEM not rebuilt units. Total cost delivered to my door was $185 plus S/H. Shipping cost me $11 bucks.
Also installed a heat shield blanket. Cost $30 bucks. Protects the starter from too much heat. The cat converter is way too close to the starter. Easy to putt on, it has velcro strips that hold the blanket on. I prefer this version to the one with the steel tie wraps. Easier to take of if needed. You can get these anywhere like Summit catalog or local parts store.

The starter is really easy to do. Dealership will cost you big $$$.
Disco the neg battery cable.
You'll need a 8mm socket for the small nut on the wire that runs to the starter. You'll need a 13mm or 14mm for the battery cable on the starter. 14mm for the two starter bolts. The one smaller bolt can be a pain to get to. If you need to you, can bend the cat converter shield in a little to give you some room for the socket. Use a pry bar for that.

If you install a blanket, make sure it is not covering the starters flat mounting area that contacts the block. I installed the blanket on the starter before bolting it up. Torq the bolts down to spec. If you tighten them to much , they are hard to get off if you ever need to take the starter back off. The bolts look like the are some kind of self torquing bolt.
:crazy:

 

I am having the same thing happen on my 95, Also the 'SYS' light is flashing slowly on the display left of the speedo, I am pretty sure it is just as someone mentioned above that the battery is at the end of it's life. I am going to replace mine ASAP and will let you know how it goes.

Don

 

Hard to believe if the battery was bad it would start after 20 tries like he says is happening to him. :confused:


[Modified by ConeKLR, 11:01 AM 7/23/2002]

 

The exact same thing was happening on my '93. Whacking the solenoid from underneath with a hammer usually got me past the "clicks." Well that worked for a couple weeks, until my solenoid decided to get stuck in the engaged position.
When that happens, your car is possessed by demons. At idle I could still hear the starter gears whiiiiiirring. Even more exciting, the starter kept cranking and cranking even with the key out of the ignition! I had to disconnect the battery in order to get it to stop. :eek:

So I've got a new starter on the way (don't wanna mess with rebuilding, it's $185 from the Last Detail) and I'm gonna try to get it started normally this weekend so I can drive down the road to Bigtoe's garage lift.