Well, my title says it all. Had a lot of work done to the vette about a year and a half ago(AFR Heads, Cam, ported intake, larger injectors, headers, dyno-tuned, etc). Got it back and all was well. Well, about a year ago, I went to crank the car and it didn't wanna crank. It would try to crank but wouldn't turn over. When it finally cranked, it spit and sputtered and cleared out. Didn't think anything about it. Well, about 8 miles down the road sitting at a light, it started spitting and sputtering and wound up cutting out and stalling and threw several codes. It wouldn't crank back up. Took it to the shop that did the work. They checked the codes, cleared them out and said everything was fine. They couldn't get it to replicate the problem, everything on the computer looked good and they said they saw nothing wrong. Once again, all was well after that. Only driven it 4 times this year. Went to drive her today, had trouble cranking. Once cranked, spit and sputtered and stalled out. Cranked it back up, check engine light came on and it stalled out again. I was able to limp it home and pulled the following codes:
P0100-Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit
P0101-Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance
P0102-Mass of Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low
P0103-Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High
P0601-Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P1351-Manufacturer Control
P1361-Manufacturer Control
P1371-Manufacturer Control

Anyone got any ideas or experience in this dilemma? I don't understand it the way it comes and goes. I thought maybe Opti was starting to go out but its a brand new Delco Opti that was installed with a new electric water pump and timing chain since everything was being replaced, went ahead and did that too. Im lost...

 

The code P0601 can cause stalling.
The code indicates failing memory in the Power Train Control Module (PCM).
This could be causing the other DTC's.

One thing you can try is disconnect the battery and reseat the connectors at the PCM and
Ignition Control Module. Look for bent pins or pins pushed out of the connector. Start the car and while the engine is running, move the wires around at the ICM and PCM. Bang on the cover and see if you can reproduce the stalling.

If you decide to purchase a PCM have it reprogrammed by your tuner since you are not running a stock tune.

You may also need to transfer the knock module if the replacement unit doesn't have one.
Remove the small cover on the bottom of the PCM and unplug the module.

Here's one that is reasonably priced and no exchange needed.

You could have yours repaired but the problem is intermittent so they may not find the problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-1996-LT1-5-7L-Engine-Computer-ECM-PCM-16214399-Programmed-to-your-VIN-/221452314417?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338f962731&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the reply. When I get home this afternoon, I'll disconnect the battery and check to make sure all the wires are seated(im hoping its just a bad connection). Then if they were all secure, I'll unplug them and check to make sure the pins arent bent. The dilemma I'm gonna have is that the tuner who did the tuning is no longer in business. He sold the business and therefore, he's not going to be able to do it. So at this point, not really sure how all the re-flashing, etc works. I think each PCM is specifically dedicated to each individual VIN #. And I know a lot of tuning went into this car, with the disabling of O2 sensors, egr, etc. Not sure if the tune can be transferred to the new PCM from the old PCM?

 

If you decide to replace the PCM, the program file can be downloaded from your original PCM and saved on a PC. You need the cable and software program to do it. Tunercat.com used to sell a software kit but sold the rights to Jet performance. I looked at the web-site which describes the DST 14005 kit. This kit works for a 96 Corvette. Below are some links. The price is round $340.00 on Amazon. Plus it appears you would need the cabling to attach it to a serial or usb port.

Another option if you buy the PCM on E-bay, you could ask them if you send them your original PCM could they flash that program into the one you're buying. In their ad they do say they will flash a stock program before they ship the PCM to the customer.

It's a simple process. The software reads the EEprom and stores the file to a PC. Then you upload your modified program into the new PCM. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. You could also ask them to save your tune to a CD for future use.

Or you could contact any local tuner and explain your situation. If they have the proper software it should be no problem to have the replacement PCM reprogrammed to the software on your current PCM.

You could also post your problem in the Scan and Tune forum and see if anyone can help a Corvette Brother out.

Also don't forget about transferring the knock module if the replacement PCM doesn't have one.

The first link below describes the program.

The other link below is the kit sold on Amazon.

http://tunertools.com/jet!!!-dynamic...uning-kit.html

 

Thanks for all the help and sorry for the delay in getting back to ya. Spent yesterday and today working on the car doing some odds and ins. I decided last night to clear out all the codes and unplug all four plugs. I did disconnect the battery first. I removed the PCM and checked for bent prongs. All was good. Checked the wires and all of those appeared good and didn't appear to be in a bind. I took an air compressor and blew out all four plug holes in case dust had gotten in there(even tho it looked clean) and blew out all four plugs themselves. While I was at it, I painted the tray that holds the PCM and did some cleaning up while that and the battery was out...figured it was the best time to do it.

I did notice that one of the two cruise control diaphragm hoses was dry rotted and cracked. Not that I use the CC, but it looked pretty bad, so I ran to AutoZone and got a new piece of hosing and an on/off switch for the battery(since I never drive the car). Probably a stupid question, but I'm assuming by chance that the CC hose I replaced wouldn't have had anything to do with it potentially causing a vacuum leak would it? It was dry rotted and broke around where it plugs onto the control itself.

This morning, I plugged everything back up, double checked the connections, and while I was at it, went ahead and checked the connections on the MAF sensor, and everything was tight and snug. Fired the car up, check engine codes were gone, and I let it run about 15 minutes. I didn't take it down the road b/c I really didn't have time but it idled perfectly fine with no hesitations. I did tap on the PCM with my hand while it was running and jerked on the wires and kinda jiggled the 4 connecters that go into the PCM and no hesitations, or sputtering. Now, obviously I didn't take a hammer to it or play tug-o-war with the wiring, lol. So...not sure if its gonna be one of those every 6 month kinda things that mess up when it wants to or whether it was something as simple as a piece of dust?

I appreciate the help and hope I don't have to go the new PCM route. I'm assuming that the PCM has to be specific for a 96? Thanks for all the help thus far...

 

Cross your fingers and time will tell.

It appears GM 16214399 PCM was used in 96-97 LT1 and LT4 vehicles.
Corvettes, Camaros, Firebirds and possibly in 5.7l Buick Roadmasters and Chevy Impalas.

Your problem is if the PCM is failing it may get to a point where the tuning program can't be accessed.

At the cruise control servo, one vacuum hose goes inside the car and is attached to a switch on the brake pedal and clutch pedal if you have a manual trans. When you press on the pedal, it lets the vacuum out of the cruise control servo which turns the cruise control off. The other hose goes to a vacuum T. One end goes to a black plastic vacuum reservoir on the driver side and in front of the driver side front wheel well housing. The other end goes to the vacuum source which is a check valve located under the passenger side engine fuel rail cover. The check valve sometimes crumbles along with the vacuum hose. At the check valve one of the vacuum hoses goes to the intake manifold. The check valve has twp outputs. One for the cruise control and the other line is used by the HVAC to operate some vacuum operated actuators to control the direction of the air flow.

If a leak develops in that circuit most people discover the cruise control doesn't work and the air comes out of the wrong vents. No one has mentioned a high idle or drive ability problems.

 

Got em crossed and thanks!