Fuel tank sending units
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
Fuel tank sending units
Does anyone know if you can buy just the "resistor" part of the sending unit. Should be 0-90 ohm like a million before it. I'm looking for the insulator with the wire wrapped around it. Can't find one.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,395
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http://tristarrradiator.com/index.html
I haven't looked recently any further than just this fellow. I've spoken to people that have used his services and all were happy so I didn't look any further. I might do it again though.
Try using "wiper" or "rheostat" in your searches - that should help.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 5, 2014 at 01:45 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Not a chance, IMHO
There is no point when the whole assy is only $175 (sometime less) new.
even IF you could replace one, then you have a calibration problem. Just because the float arm will read ZERO at one end of the scale does not mean that is where the fuel level will be and the tank is not symmetrical, so the level equivalency changes each inch of fuel...
I've replaced many senders in C4s and its unbelievably easy to totally mess up the gauge...brand new cars will read accurately to the last mile/gallon. Pull that sender and bump it once....never see that accuracy again.
There is no point when the whole assy is only $175 (sometime less) new.
even IF you could replace one, then you have a calibration problem. Just because the float arm will read ZERO at one end of the scale does not mean that is where the fuel level will be and the tank is not symmetrical, so the level equivalency changes each inch of fuel...
I've replaced many senders in C4s and its unbelievably easy to totally mess up the gauge...brand new cars will read accurately to the last mile/gallon. Pull that sender and bump it once....never see that accuracy again.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,395
Likes: 2,741
Not a chance, IMHO
There is no point when the whole assy is only $175 (sometime less) new.
even IF you could replace one, then you have a calibration problem. Just because the float arm will read ZERO at one end of the scale does not mean that is where the fuel level will be and the tank is not symmetrical, so the level equivalency changes each inch of fuel...
I've replaced many senders in C4s and its unbelievably easy to totally mess up the gauge...brand new cars will read accurately to the last mile/gallon. Pull that sender and bump it once....never see that accuracy again.
There is no point when the whole assy is only $175 (sometime less) new.
even IF you could replace one, then you have a calibration problem. Just because the float arm will read ZERO at one end of the scale does not mean that is where the fuel level will be and the tank is not symmetrical, so the level equivalency changes each inch of fuel...
I've replaced many senders in C4s and its unbelievably easy to totally mess up the gauge...brand new cars will read accurately to the last mile/gallon. Pull that sender and bump it once....never see that accuracy again.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
Thank you WVZR-1. I'll check into it.
Lee? I'm not sure what you are doing, but in this case, you just pull the insulator with the wire wrapped around it, out and replace it. Nothing will move. NOTHING...
Now, in all honesty, the unit I'm referring to is NOT on my vette. It is a GM however. I thought they were all very similar with the 0-90 ohm. This unit is out of an 89 Chev BBC truck. I have another unit that works, but the reading is all over the place.
Lee? I'm not sure what you are doing, but in this case, you just pull the insulator with the wire wrapped around it, out and replace it. Nothing will move. NOTHING...
Now, in all honesty, the unit I'm referring to is NOT on my vette. It is a GM however. I thought they were all very similar with the 0-90 ohm. This unit is out of an 89 Chev BBC truck. I have another unit that works, but the reading is all over the place.
Last edited by ANTI VENOM; Jun 5, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,395
Likes: 2,741
Thank you WVZR-1. I'll check into it.
Lee? I'm not sure what you are doing, but in this case, you just pull the insulator with the wire wrapped around it, out and replace it. Nothing will move. NOTHING...
Now, in all honesty, the unit I'm referring to is NOT on my vette. It is a GM however. I thought they were all very similar with the 0-90 ohm. This unit is out of an 89 Chev BBC truck. I have another unit that works, but the reading is all over the place.
Lee? I'm not sure what you are doing, but in this case, you just pull the insulator with the wire wrapped around it, out and replace it. Nothing will move. NOTHING...
Now, in all honesty, the unit I'm referring to is NOT on my vette. It is a GM however. I thought they were all very similar with the 0-90 ohm. This unit is out of an 89 Chev BBC truck. I have another unit that works, but the reading is all over the place.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The same 0-90 ohm fuel level sending unit element was used in MANY GM cars for MANY years. I have been searching for a source for these guys for a long time without success. The fancy stainless steel sending units you can buy now have a new sending unit, so obviously the manufacturers are getting them from somewhere.
Newer cars have a completely different modular sending unit element, which you CAN buy, but they don't fit our cars.
Newer cars have a completely different modular sending unit element, which you CAN buy, but they don't fit our cars.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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A correct tank unit (less pump) can be done for likely less than $70 for your truck. Might make a slight difference for right or left side but it's not outrageous by today's standards. I believe you want to shop Spectra by brand. Years ago all of the Spectra product was Canadian construction and I used a good bit of their product. Today I'm sure the sourcing has changed.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
This may be true,
but HOW can you replace an integral part of that assembly without somehow altering the accuracy of the sender as an assembly?
Now for example, mine shows empty when there is actually a cpl gal remaining. That's a replacement assembly too. Its just been handled several times and each time the gauge reads a little different than before...
I've done this repair/replacement and every time the gauge was nowhere nearly as dead-nuts, spot on precise as it WAS..........
To me, (not totally OCD either
) the accurate fuel level was the point of the repair, if that was disturbed, that negated the repair process. 
I realize that, in theory at least, that as long as the float arm is not bent, damaged or tweaked that the sender should end up with the same ranging as it did before....but it don't !
I dunno....I've got a couple sender assys that I might revisit and gather some boneyard parts and TRY to do this and discover what can be done to assure an accurate gauge post repair.