So my vette is driving me mad with some current problems.

First and probably the most frustrating is when I take a hard turn and give her some gas..or try to get sideways the car loses all power.. its like all fuel or spark is just gone and then suddenly it kicks back on and goes.

Some datalogs are showing my opti may be going bad, Could that be causing this? it runs ok otherwise.. Sometimes on a warm start it misses at idle then i rev it a few times and it recovers and idles fine even with the ac on.

second, sometimes theres a clunk from the rear end, then all the brake lights (atlest 3) come the DIC.. I know one is ASR and i cant recall the others because im always driving when it happens and cant pay attention.

and last, my brakes are dragging! once the car gets hot they drag.. you can tell because when I push the clutch in on a incline the car doesnt roll at all.. and if I slowly creep to a stoplight with the clutch in the last few feet you can feel the car drag and then "erk" to a stop.

The last one I figured is going to be attributed to a bad master cylinder or needing to bleed the brakes, I did notice on the master cylinder there is the main vacuum line that goes to the intake and then a much smaller tube below it that has a vacuum cap on it.. im not sure if thats supposed to go somewhere or what, but if anyone has any simple things i could check that would be great. I almost wonder if the second and third are connected in some way, like a issue with the ABS system?

I replaced my coil wire today with a extra I had sitting.. the one on the car was like 8.25k ohm, replaced with a .5 one.. Noticed when I was doing the job this odd fellow was here.. I dont have anything like this on my lt1 Fbody, could someone enlighten me? the black relay looking thing.

 

While I cant help you with most of the quirks you have with the brakes, your loss of power issue in the corners is a common one. If you notice it probly happens when you are at half a tank or less. For some reason the fuel pump has difficulty picking up fuel when in this situation. AutoXers will put a small cut down quart bottle that resists gas under the pump/fuel pick up to form a sump that keeps enough fuel right at the place its needed. Do a little search for details here as there is a write up somewhere.

I will say your braking problems do all seem to be related. I dont have anti locks or ASR on my '85 but its seems something is not releasing (returning) fluid whether it is the master, caliper, rubber line, or the anti lock system, I cant say. Hopefully someone will point you in the right direction.

 

I've read of two issues that resulted in dragging brakes. The first was junk that got into the abs pump and stuck it. That person said they eventually had to disassemble the pump themselves to fix it as they couldn't find anyone to do it.
The other one has been noted more often: the brake lines to the calipers. Seems the hoses break down and plug up with junk. If it happens and you can open a bleeder plug and it releases it's likely one or the other, though I'd suspect the hoses first.

 

Loss of power. Of course if the ASR is activated, this is what the ASR does, it pulls timing and cuts fuel. You should feel a 'push back' on the gas pedal when it kicks in. If the ASR is not activated, you should see the "ASR OFF" light on the center stack. If it's doing with the ASR off, the fuel statement above is correct. But also check your oil pressure. The engine will shut off fuel at under 4lbs of oil pressure.

Before throwing a new opti at it, I would check, first the fuel pressure regulator. Then the ICM (ignition control module, especially if it feels like it's missing when hot)

Now the clunk in the rear end, that could be the pinion yoke, u-joints, or half shaft joints. Not sure if these can get bad enough to set off asr warnings or not. But definitely check them out.

I believe in the pic you are talking about that little connector? It plugs into the intake tube between the maf and the throttle body. Can't recall exactly what it measures at the moment.

 

I just went out with half a tank of gas and got it side ways, it still killed over about 3/4 way through the slide, iv never had this problem with my 84, do the newer ones have a different gas tank?

Oil pressure is solid, it does it with ASR off.

Also found when driving the clunk can be recreated at 50+ mph in 5th gear.. if i let off the gas for about 3 seconds then accelerate again, it clunks every time.. but the shifter doesnt seem to move up at all, but I can feel the clunk in the shifter.

Iv had the rear brakes off and they are lubed well and no apparent problems with the lines, Ill check the front setup tomorrow. Do all the LT1s have duel piston front brakes or do I have that brake package?

Thanks

 

That is an urban legend/myth and is NOT true.

Your engine will run just fine with the oil pressure switch unplugged (I've done it).

 

There are two brake hoses, one inside the other. If the inner hose leaks, brake fluid can fill up the space between the inner and outer hose and pinch the inner hose shut. When this happens the outer hose will bulge where the inner hose is leaking (at the bottom and near the shock mount):



Another thing that can cause the brakes to hang up is if the fluid is not changed for a long time. It turns to thick sludge like grease and that causes the pistons to not release. I had that happen to me on a 750 Honda motorcycle. I didn't change the brake fluid for about 15 years (never thought about it) and the front brake wouldn't release. I took the bleeder screw out and nothing came out. When I pumped the brake lever black sludge came out.

 

what year is your car and does it have a MAF ?
that connector hanging down is either the MAF connector or the Coolant temp sensor connector, either way if it is not hooked up you will have all sorts of "qwerks" happening with your engine !