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Before I pulled my intake base I turned the crank till #1 was at TDC on compression stroke. This put the rotor pointing directly at #1 terminal for a solid reference. I loosened the dist and rotated it till the plastic feed through was in the center of the intake base. Then I marked the rotor position on the dist base, pulled the dist up a little and marked this position on the dist base for a reference when dropping it back in.
It was my first time to have the base out and apply sealer and such but went very well. Just come to the Forum if any questions as the job progresses. Oh, and a thread chasing set is good for cleaning the intake bolts and bolt holes so you get a good seal and accurate torque reading on installation.
speed density is fine as long as you don't change the cam, they are really picky with vac changes. i managed a best of 13.2&107 on my stock engine, cam, heads before it blew with bolt ons. you'll still shift about 5500rpm however, it will go to 5800 but you'll be faster 5200-5500, i was able to beat stock C5's left and right before i got into the engine, the only internal mod was roller rockers.
So I will be fine shifting around 5200-5500 RPM's with out modifying my computer? I also plan on adding a flowmaster Y-pipe and straight through mufflers and MAD front Y-pipe w/o precats. When do I need to start modifying the computer/putting in custom chips? Who should I go to? Get a TPIS custom made chip for like 575$ or something like that? With removing the base, I'll just have to put up a post when I get to that point, I'd jsust figured I'd ask while we were on the subject. I know about turning the crank so the #1 piston is fuly extended right? But removing the distributer is going to be the hard part. Thanks for the tips and help.
In believe the Ed Wright chips are used with success on the Forum.
Once you have it setup and the hold down removed, removing the dist is simple, just lift it up and out. Of course marking the plug wires at both ends aids in reassembly.
In believe the Ed Wright chips are used with success on the Forum.
Once you have it setup and the hold down removed, removing the dist is simple, just lift it up and out. Of course marking the plug wires at both ends aids in reassembly.
When do have to use one of these chips? After I siamese my intake? How much do they usually run and where can I get one? Im thinking about buying a TPIs or ACCEL base, and SLP runners and siamese/ port that all with in the next month. Hopefully I can see some low 13's maybe high 12's when I get my exhaust too come october?
Try the intake improvements with your stock chip and an AFPR tweak based on trap speed. You may only need a chip with a change to manifold vacuum as with a realy agressive cam.
Wait till after the exhaust is done to see if you realy need one. The exhaust will realy wake it up.
A set of 1.6RRs, new valve springs, Ti retainers and lose the oil shedders from atop your valve train will also give a nice boost without effecting manifold vacuum. This will raise your valve float point and effect a slightly more agressive cam which will compliment the intake and exhaust work.
If you lose any low end torque install a "slightly" higher RPM TC.
When you get those mods done raise your shift points into the mid 5,xxxrpm range to take advantage of the better breathing up top and stay in the lower (more torque) gears longer during the 1/4mi blast. I've picked up .3sec off my ET with just such tranny & TC work (plus a shift kit). So I'm expecting high 12s late this fall.
if you haven't done the mod to turn your fans on at 185deg & used a 160therm ed wright has a basic upgrade chip for like $150? maybe less that will allow that to happen & has a slightly more aggressive timing curve. there's not really any need to change the chip till you have a vac change {like a cam} i had a WIDE open exhaust, no cats + long tubes and the whole ported intake bit. stock chip, ran great :)
Ok thanks guys for the help on the speed density part. I guess I won't be needing a chip for while, I don't plan on changing my cam anytime soon, but hopefully the stock computer will work after all those mods.