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wire alternator with only one wire?

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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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Default wire alternator with only one wire?

Had some trouble at the track today but made it to the end of the weekend. Alt wasnt charging and figured out I didnt have power to the blue wire. When I looked at the diagram though I was confused with the redundancy....

The alt has 4 wires. Two are large gauge red wires that go to fusable links at the power junction. Why not use one wire? The blue wire is also 12v why not combine all 3? I know if the bat gets disconnected the alt will still run the car with that setup but when would this ever be a danger/needed redundancy? Last wire is just the dash display so unecessary in reality.

So is there any problem with combining all them to just one wire?
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rithsleeper
Had some trouble at the track today but made it to the end of the weekend. Alt wasnt charging and figured out I didnt have power to the blue wire. When I looked at the diagram though I was confused with the redundancy....

The alt has 4 wires. Two are large gauge red wires that go to fusable links at the power junction. Why not use one wire? The blue wire is also 12v why not combine all 3? I know if the bat gets disconnected the alt will still run the car with that setup but when would this ever be a danger/needed redundancy? Last wire is just the dash display so unecessary in reality.

So is there any problem with combining all them to just one wire?
You don't mention anywhere the year of the car or the model of the alternator you've got installed. There are different wire configurations for nearly all alternators and some internals require specific wiring schemes.

In nearly all instances to convert a multi wire to a single wire would require the replacement of a voltage regulator with the "one wire feature". There are such things. Nearly all CS series delco-trons can be accomplished in this fashion.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 17, 2014 at 08:03 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 07:04 AM
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Its a 1989. Im more not understanding the redundancy. When the alt isnt hooked up I was running the car normally until I realized the bat volts were down to 11.9 and I had trouble starting it. Once I just bridged the 12v from ignition to the 12v fusable link the voltage jumped to 13.5v. However the bat still didnt charge correctly because the car got hard to start later in the day. I put a trickle charger on and was fine. I have my battery mounted in the tub behind the passenger seat so im wondering if that might have something to do with it.

I connected the fusable links to the same side terminal on my emergency cutoff switch as my starter motor. Then the other side to my battery. Wondering if I should rewire something.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rithsleeper
Its a 1989. Im more not understanding the redundancy. When the alt isnt hooked up I was running the car normally until I realized the bat volts were down to 11.9 and I had trouble starting it. Once I just bridged the 12v from ignition to the 12v fusable link the voltage jumped to 13.5v. However the bat still didnt charge correctly because the car got hard to start later in the day. I put a trickle charger on and was fine. I have my battery mounted in the tub behind the passenger seat so im wondering if that might have something to do with it.

I connected the fusable links to the same side terminal on my emergency cutoff switch as my starter motor. Then the other side to my battery. Wondering if I should rewire something.
I'd say your wiring is likely suspect. What gauge is your current charging wire? In a remote location it often needs to be OR it's suggested to use maybe 8 and a larger fusible link.

I would start here and there's a good bit to read. I did remote solenoids way before their kits became popular for motor homes and older BBC.

http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

MAD may NOT even still be around but the reads are good.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 18, 2014 at 07:47 AM.
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