Defroster rear window connector / cable missing.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 76
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From: Thunder Bay Ontario
Defroster rear window connector / cable missing.
The cable is completely missing off one side of rear window. I've been searching the internet for a while and have been unable to locate the cable. Where can I get one of these and best way to attach it back.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
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From: Anaheim CA
The wires and connectors are the same on both sides. One thing to watch for is that there are several connectors that look the same but use slightly different width spade lugs. If the connector is too narrow it won't fit on the lug. This guy might solve your problem:
You might be able to find something similar at an auto parts store.
The wire needs to be soldered to the braid that runs along the edge of the hatch glass. There is a lot of thermal mass there, so you need a soldering iron that is at least 100 watts.
You might be able to find something similar at an auto parts store.
The wire needs to be soldered to the braid that runs along the edge of the hatch glass. There is a lot of thermal mass there, so you need a soldering iron that is at least 100 watts.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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The replacement procedure is covered in the FSM 10-2-? - you need silver content rosin core solder. You need to measure the width of the blade connector on the strut, if it's .250 it's a Packard 56 (the more likely I believe), if it's .3118 its a Packard 59, and you want to make sure that the wire is at least 12 AWG (accepted replacement for 3 metric) if it's for the ground side (LH strut I believe). If it's for the power side (RH strut I believe) you need to use 10 AWG (replacement for 5 metric wire). You can get the terminal only at any GM dealer or auto parts store, the correct plastic shell also. I'd buy terminal and connector separate if it were for the power side.
You may have better install success if you select a new location for the soldered connection rather than attempt the repair of the old. That's mentioned in later GM TSB's. It's also suggested to use only required heat.
OP - if you don't have a FSM post back for more info!
You may have better install success if you select a new location for the soldered connection rather than attempt the repair of the old. That's mentioned in later GM TSB's. It's also suggested to use only required heat.
OP - if you don't have a FSM post back for more info!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 18, 2014 at 06:39 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 377
Likes: 10
From: Chicago IL
I had a broken cable/wire many years ago. I used a spare piece of heavier gauge braided wire from my wire scrap collection. I had no luck soldering upside down to the hatch, so I used conductive epoxy. I covered my fresh epoxy with a piece of tape, shut the hatch, tested for continuity, let it set up for a day, removed the tape & it's been working fine ever since.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I measured the defroster current for somebody a while back. It takes about 25 amps, so the larger the wire gauge the better.
