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Testing FX3 Actuators

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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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Default Testing FX3 Actuators

'92 coupe w/ FX3 - The prior owner installed non-adjustable AC Delco shocks when the Bilsteins wore out. When I purchased the car he gave me the old actuators and shocks. I'm interested in purchasing new Bilsteins and restoring the FX3 back to stock, but I would like to make sure the actuators work before I start spending money.

So, is there a way to test the actuators off the car to make sure they are functioning correctly?
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by woodyupstate
'92 coupe w/ FX3 - The prior owner installed non-adjustable AC Delco shocks when the Bilsteins wore out. When I purchased the car he gave me the old actuators and shocks. I'm interested in purchasing new Bilsteins and restoring the FX3 back to stock, but I would like to make sure the actuators work before I start spending money.

So, is there a way to test the actuators off the car to make sure they are functioning correctly?
Are all of the connectors and harness ends on the car intact and preserved/protected from the elements? If yes and you can confirm power at the connector ends using the FSM to confirm values I believe you should be able to connect the actuators and observe function on car with no shocks attached. I've never done it but I'd think so. I'd think the car part requires testing before you actually go any further.

The FSM diagnostics should I think answer most questions.

Most posts I've ever seen mention "NO BENCH TEST" - the actuators are controlled by an electronic module so evaluations need to be done "ON CAR"!

Do you have a FSM?

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 18, 2014 at 09:56 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:55 AM
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The pigtails were silconed to protect them from the elements, etc.

The prior owner removed the bulb in the diagnostic center when he removed the Bilsteins.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by woodyupstate
The pigtails were silconed to protect them from the elements, etc.

The prior owner removed the bulb in the diagnostic center when he removed the Bilsteins.
Well you know the DIC bulb needs put back to do anything so that would likely be step 1. I edited my first post and asked if you had FSM. Do you? Read that section a couple times and see what your take is on the diagnostics but I do believe "NO BENCH TEST" without likely special equipment. I'd think they could be ruined in attempts without proper equipment/tools.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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I do have a FSM. I was hoping to determine off-car if the actuators worked. No actuators, then everything would be back-burnered until next year.

No bench test would imply the following routine, which is what I was hoping to avoid:

1. Groan.
2. Reinstall DIC bulb.
3. Remove silicone from pigtails and clean.
4. Install actuators and test for function.
5. If no function, remove DIC bulb.
6. If function and no light, proceed.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Default On car test only

Originally Posted by woodyupstate
'92 coupe w/ FX3 - The prior owner installed non-adjustable AC Delco shocks when the Bilsteins wore out. When I purchased the car he gave me the old actuators and shocks. I'm interested in purchasing new Bilsteins and restoring the FX3 back to stock, but I would like to make sure the actuators work before I start spending money.

So, is there a way to test the actuators off the car to make sure they are functioning correctly?
Here is a video of what I did to restore my fx3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2TlSvRHyzc

You will need to clean up at least one of your siliconed up electrical connectors and try the actuators one at a time. I see no need to replace the bulb in the driver info center to test actuators. Verify that your control module is still in the car and connected too

Steve
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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Steve,

Thanks for your suggestion of checking all actuators with one pigtail. Makes sense. And, for the video.

Woody
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 04:41 PM
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Interesting video, one would have thought with the switch disconnected that possibly the actuators wouldn't cycle at "key-on". Interesting. Checking one actuator at a time is a very good idea also. I would guess though that you couldn't confirm whether good or bad until at least one passed the test. If none checked at the single location you would need to either move to another position and check again or get more seriously involved with the system diagnostics. A very good short-cut indeed it seems.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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Default WVZR-1 has a good point

Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Interesting video, one would have thought with the switch disconnected that possibly the actuators wouldn't cycle at "key-on". Interesting. Checking one actuator at a time is a very good idea also. I would guess though that you couldn't confirm whether good or bad until at least one passed the test. If none checked at the single location you would need to either move to another position and check again or get more seriously involved with the system diagnostics. A very good short-cut indeed it seems.

You are right with the idea of seeing at least one of the actuators work. There is no guarantee that the wiring is good or that the module is working. Good point!

steve
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by flyboyslc1
Here is a video of what I did to restore my fx3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2TlSvRHyzc

You will need to clean up at least one of your siliconed up electrical connectors and try the actuators one at a time. I see no need to replace the bulb in the driver info center to test actuators. Verify that your control module is still in the car and connected too

Steve
How do you know if the shock valving and the actuator are "in sync"? I had my shocks rebuilt and need to re-install them.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:32 PM
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Default re-install in any position at all

Originally Posted by ANTI VENOM
How do you know if the shock valving and the actuator are "in sync"? I had my shocks rebuilt and need to re-install them.
Hi there,

Reinstall your shocks in any position at all. It does not make any difference. Once you start the car up, or just turn the key to "on" the FX-3 system cycles the actuators back and forth, and the control module measures their stop position and then sets them all to the same initial position. I would suppose this is done digitally, but one way or another the module learns where all the shocks are at and sets them to where they need to be. The module synchs it all up.

That is why when you visually check the actuators off the shock, you will see them move first one direction and then the other direction. If memory works for this old man, i want to say that the max travel is 160 degrees, but i may be wrong on this.

steve
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