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Does anyone know what color the wiring is for the ignition switch and where it plugs into under the dash? My switch broke and I removed it but it did not have any wires close to it. It had two white wires that were stripped off at the top of the switch but I have know clue where it was attached, there were no loose wires inside the column. I need to replace it with a new one but have no idea where to plug the new one into.
Your old cylinder had no sign of wires being attached to it at all? Did the car run and drive right up until the cylinder (you called switch) failed? Have you replaced the cylinder and pulled the wires to the bottom of the column yet?
Your old cylinder had no sign of wires being attached to it at all? Did the car run and drive right up until the cylinder (you called switch) failed? Have you replaced the cylinder and pulled the wires to the bottom of the column yet?
If not DON'T YET"!
I looked under the dash but cant find the wires. It almost looks as if they bypassed the VATS system somehow. It was running good then all of the sudden nothing. No console lights at all other than the VATS security light. All the other electrical works fine. Just doesn't have any power to the switch. The cylinder had wires attached to it but not through the column. The wires were just stubs at the switch part.
I looked under the dash but cant find the wires. It almost looks as if they bypassed the VATS system somehow. It was running good then all of the sudden nothing. No console lights at all other than the VATS security light. All the other electrical works fine. Just doesn't have any power to the switch. The cylinder had wires attached to it but not through the column. The wires were just stubs at the switch part.
If the VATS was by-passed there would be no reason for you to have to use the more expensive VATS cylinder and then have keys made to match the mechanical cuts and also the resistance value of the old keys. You could use a base column cylinder that would generally come with two keys and is less than half of the price of what you've already bought. Did you already buy keys? Did you buy local?
What actually lead you to believe the cylinder was bad originally?
Did the car "crank"?
Have you tried the door key to turn off the SECURITY light? It might be wise to cycle it a couple times in each door lock cylinder.
If the VATS was by-passed there would be no reason for you to have to use the more expensive VATS cylinder and then have keys made to match the mechanical cuts and also the resistance value of the old keys. You could use a base column cylinder that would generally come with two keys and is less than half of the price of what you've already bought. Did you already buy keys? Did you buy local?
What actually lead you to believe the cylinder was bad originally?
Did the car "crank"?
Have you tried the door key to turn off the SECURITY light? It might be wise to cycle it a couple times in each door lock cylinder.
Car would not crank at all, no dash console lights or anything. Unhooked a bunch of stuff and re-hooked it up and put the cylinder back in just a minute ago and it started right up. What the ?. The people who had the car before me evidently have done some major @!# around with the wiring.
Car would not crank at all, no dash console lights or anything. Unhooked a bunch of stuff and re-hooked it up and put the cylinder back in just a minute ago and it started right up. What the ?. The people who had the car before me evidently have done some major @!# around with the wiring.
Evidently it looks like there is a little black relay that is connected to the black and yellow wires that are suppose to go to the VATS system I guess. I unhooked it to check and it wouldn't crank, hooked it back and it cranks but doesn't start now.
I let it sit for a minute and it started back up fine. Now I know what the problem is and how to fix it. Thanks for the input.
No console lights at all other than the VATS security light.
VATS does not connect to the SECURITY light. That didn't happen until around 1990. That light is turned on by the TDS (Theft Deterrent System) security system (the one that honks the horn) and it is disarmed by the door key.