C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Trouble Codes, and Running Poorly

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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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Default Trouble Codes, and Running Poorly

Hey, I've got an 88, Auto, stock

I seem to have a few issues, mainly with the way the car runs.
It seems to be showing codes:
Code #21: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High.
Code #32: EGR System Failure.
Code #34: Mass Air Flow Sensor Low.

On to the behavior. It starts and drives fine. Idle sits at around 600-800 in neutral. In terms of driving, it accelerates at a normal pace at light throttle, but at WOT, it's like I'm driving a moped. There's seriously no power.

I thought it might be a timing issue, so I got my timing light and checked my timing. The timing line is jumpy. It's not stable and jumps around a bit.

Spark plugs are fine, wires are fine, distributor cap and rotor are new. I'm really not sure what to check into. I don't want to blindly replace parts.

Any advice?
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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I think the answers are in your codes esp the esp code 34 and 21. I would work on the codes and go from there. I do not have a way of scaning the diag tree for the code repairs so if you do not speak up and someone on here may be able to do that for you. I would not go any futher till I got this information
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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I also meant to mention that I attempted to re-set the idle, but the car won't run with the IAC valve unhooked.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Azriel
I also meant to mention that I attempted to re-set the idle, but the car won't run with the IAC valve unhooked.
Does not surprise me dig into thouse codes you know that they are a known problem and that is where you should alwas start.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 01:50 AM
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You can eliminate the MAF by unplugging it. The engine will run just fine with it unplugged.

I suggest resetting the error codes to make sure you're really looking at a problem. Unplug this connector for a second or so:

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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, and the only one that remained was code #32, EGR failure. What's a good way of testing this without just replacing parts?
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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I thought it might be a timing issue, so I got my timing light and checked my timing. The timing line is jumpy. It's not stable and jumps around a bit.
Just thought I'd ask, did you unplug the EST wire?
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
Just thought I'd ask, did you unplug the EST wire?
I...no. No I didn't. Wow.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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I've done that a couple times haha always messes with my mind at first

Edit: I forgot to mention that the problem you mentioned with wot sounds like the tps. I had the exact same problem. Completely bogged at wot. Set my tps and it was fine after that.

Last edited by Christian95; Jun 27, 2014 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
I've done that a couple times haha always messes with my mind at first

Edit: I forgot to mention that the problem you mentioned with wot sounds like the tps. I had the exact same problem. Completely bogged at wot. Set my tps and it was fine after that.
And one of the vacuum lines to my EGR is cracked. So, that seems to solve all my problems! Is there a place to buy the EGR vacuum lines or am I pretty much on my own for a DIY solution?
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