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Hi Guys,
I hope someone has some advice... I have a 1991 stock L98. 78,000 miles. New injectors from FIC. New fuel filter. On the highway, 65+, stalled out. Waited 10 min, started right up, ran perfect. Drove another 80 miles, on the off ramp, stalled again, couldn't start it for 15 min, then ran perfect again.
I have advice for you. When the symptom occurs, what's missing; spark or fuel?
Until you narrow that much down (at least) we're WAG'ing, just like you. It could be a fuel pump...it could be a ICM...we can only guess at this point.
How does it run when it's actually running? Full rpm range and full power?
I've had a few issues with my 91 where it would die, run the next day, etc.
Once was the coil, once was the icm, once was the pick-up coil, once was a plug wire falling off, once was a distributor gear stripping (modded engine), etc.
Any trouble codes/ses light when it dies? When it goes to restart, will it crank but not fire? Like the guys above said...need to know if its fuel/spark. Get a fuel pressure gauge and start with that, it's the easiest to check.
How many miles on the car since you've owned it? Do you know the maintenance history?
I have advice for you. When the symptom occurs, what's missing; spark or fuel?
Until you narrow that much down (at least) we're WAG'ing, just like you. It could be a fuel pump...it could be a ICM...we can only guess at this point.
Thank you for your reply, not sure what is going on... Car runs great, but now has left me on the road twice. Let it rest 15 min, and runs fine again.
How does it run when it's actually running? Full rpm range and full power?
I've had a few issues with my 91 where it would die, run the next day, etc.
Once was the coil, once was the icm, once was the pick-up coil, once was a plug wire falling off, once was a distributor gear stripping (modded engine), etc.
Any trouble codes/ses light when it dies? When it goes to restart, will it crank but not fire? Like the guys above said...need to know if its fuel/spark. Get a fuel pressure gauge and start with that, it's the easiest to check.
How many miles on the car since you've owned it? Do you know the maintenance history?
Mike
I am the second owner. It is my hobby, so I treat it right. No codes. I put a fuel pressure gauge on, reading 40+ Distrib?
Thank you for your reply, not sure what is going on... Car runs great, but now has left me on the road twice. Let it rest 15 min, and runs fine again.
Vacuum??
Vacuum? I don't know. No one does. It's not likely that it's "vacuum", but you're totally missing the point that I made above. You have to do a little work here. If you want WAG's we can give you plenty of that, but what is that worth? Not much.
When the car dies, get out, put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and check for spark. What do you see? Help us, help you.
How does it run when it's actually running? Full rpm range and full power?
I've had a few issues with my 91 where it would die, run the next day, etc.
Once was the coil, once was the icm, once was the pick-up coil, once was a plug wire falling off, once was a distributor gear stripping (modded engine), etc.
Any trouble codes/ses light when it dies? When it goes to restart, will it crank but not fire? Like the guys above said...need to know if its fuel/spark. Get a fuel pressure gauge and start with that, it's the easiest to check.
How many miles on the car since you've owned it? Do you know the maintenance history?
Mike
Thanks! I am going to replace the distriutor, always thought that was a good idea anyway.. not sure that's the problem though..
[QUOTE=Tom400CFI;1587278828]Vacuum? I don't know. No one does. It's not likely that it's "vacuum", but you're totally missing the point that I made above. You have to do a little work here. If you want WAG's we can give you plenty of that, but what is that worth? Not much.
When the car dies, get out, put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and check for spark. What do you see? Help us, help you. [/QUOTE
Thank you Tom!
I am going to tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and see what happens when it dies. I also have the snap on tool which should show me codes.
Thank you for your reply. No codes. I have a Snapon scanner. Looks clean
check the ground connection from your battery to the frame. Corrosion and heat can cause too much resistance to allow enough current flow. After it cools the resistance decreases, allowing it to start.
when it is acting up is the best time to dianiose the problem. For the most part with what you are saying it is going to be 1 of 2 things fuel pump craping out or ign module craping out. If you have a fuel pressure gauge hook it up as soon as it dies and check fuel pressure to see what you have If you do not have a pressure gauge push in the shreader valve where you would hook a gauge to you should have a strong steady burst of fuel. If you have some one with you have them turn trhe key to on while you hold in the shrader valve again you should have a steady burst if fuel if not it is going to be the fuel pump. The other thing to check is the spark kinda hard to check on your own but you need to remove a plug wire off a plug and put a screw driver or something on the end and hold it about a 1/4 in or so away from the metel of the engine have some one crank the engine you should get a nice steady spark for the gap. Having a module fail while going down the road is rare they seem to die after you shut the engine off and then come back to start them the fuel pump can cramp out at any time and they do like to come back to life after they cool down. I would look real hard at the fuel pump
If you do like the guys above are telling you, it will save a bunch of money wasted throwing parts at the car, instead of diagnosing the real problem... .If you want us to "guess", my guess would be it's the IAC..These are affected by the heat when there going bad, and it sounds like your problem may be heat related since you have to wait awhile before the car will start again...But coils can also be affected by heat ,as can ECMs, and so can fuel pumps....WW
Right. I would like to fix it, not change parts that are not the problem. I am not as smart as you guys though, so I do what I can. I always appreciate the advice I get on this forum, I have learned a lot about my car, and I really enjoy driving it and working on it to make it reliable, after 22 years!
If you do like the guys above are telling you, it will save a bunch of money wasted throwing parts at the car, instead of diagnosing the real problem... .If you want us to "guess", my guess would be it's the IAC..These are affected by the heat when there going bad, and it sounds like your problem may be heat related since you have to wait awhile before the car will start again...But coils can also be affected by heat ,as can ECMs, and so can fuel pumps....WW
I had trouble with the IAC and put a new one in. I also removed the heat exchanger below the throttle body when I did this, as that is what the guys at TPIS recommended.
Thank you, I am going to look into heat related issues, but I cannot get the car to fail if it's up to max temp, fans on etc.. It only seems to stop after over an hour of driving.
when it is acting up is the best time to dianiose the problem. For the most part with what you are saying it is going to be 1 of 2 things fuel pump craping out or ign module craping out. If you have a fuel pressure gauge hook it up as soon as it dies and check fuel pressure to see what you have If you do not have a pressure gauge push in the shreader valve where you would hook a gauge to you should have a strong steady burst of fuel. If you have some one with you have them turn trhe key to on while you hold in the shrader valve again you should have a steady burst if fuel if not it is going to be the fuel pump. The other thing to check is the spark kinda hard to check on your own but you need to remove a plug wire off a plug and put a screw driver or something on the end and hold it about a 1/4 in or so away from the metel of the engine have some one crank the engine you should get a nice steady spark for the gap. Having a module fail while going down the road is rare they seem to die after you shut the engine off and then come back to start them the fuel pump can cramp out at any time and they do like to come back to life after they cool down. I would look real hard at the fuel pump
I pulled the fuel pump today to check the tank wiring, all looks fine. Fuel pressure is fine when the car is running fine, but haven't had the tester connected when the car fails. One weird thing is that the MPG average and instant display on the dash does not work anymore, since the original time the car stalled. Anybody think this is related? The fuel level indicator on the dash is still correct....
I had trouble with the IAC and put a new one in. I also removed the heat exchanger below the throttle body when I did this, as that is what the guys at TPIS recommended.
Thank you, I am going to look into heat related issues, but I cannot get the car to fail if it's up to max temp, fans on etc.. It only seems to stop after over an hour of driving.
I look forward to any advice you may have though!
After an hour of driving the car is up to maximum running temperture.
Just wanted to add.... The new ICMs come with a small tube of grease that "must" be spread on the bottom of the new module before installation , failure to use this grease can/will cause a failure of the IAC later on.....WW
Well, I changed out the fuel pump last weekend, and the car has been running well. Took it out for some long drives, no problems. It has been very cool here in MN though, so I will have to see how it does when the weather turns hot. So far so good though. Thanks to everyone for the help!