Install Intake and Heads with Engine on Stand?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 12
Install Intake and Heads with Engine on Stand?
Just wanted to be clear on the engine assembly timeline, ZZ4 short block is on its way.
I took the engine out with the heads, exhaust, and intake all on. I was able to loosen/remove the top two bell housing bolts from above after I lowered the engine a bit (with motor mounts off).
I was planning on putting the heads, intake, and exhaust with the ZZ4 on the engine stand and then hoisting it in the engine bay. Is this OK - or would installing them after hoisting the engine in be the right way? Seems like if I installed after, the bell-housing bolts will be easier to get to.
It would be so nice to install everything on while on the engine stand.
I still may able to reach from above either way, I'm not sure how everyone torques them with a 3 foot extension from below?
By the way, as the image shows, you can use the 1-ton hoist safely on the 1/2 ton setting. Just had to remove the wheel, wheel well, and the battery holder.
1989 stock, Cal Smog certified, coup, 104k, auto, rebuilding with a ZZ4 short block
I took the engine out with the heads, exhaust, and intake all on. I was able to loosen/remove the top two bell housing bolts from above after I lowered the engine a bit (with motor mounts off).
I was planning on putting the heads, intake, and exhaust with the ZZ4 on the engine stand and then hoisting it in the engine bay. Is this OK - or would installing them after hoisting the engine in be the right way? Seems like if I installed after, the bell-housing bolts will be easier to get to.
It would be so nice to install everything on while on the engine stand.
I still may able to reach from above either way, I'm not sure how everyone torques them with a 3 foot extension from below?
By the way, as the image shows, you can use the 1-ton hoist safely on the 1/2 ton setting. Just had to remove the wheel, wheel well, and the battery holder.
1989 stock, Cal Smog certified, coup, 104k, auto, rebuilding with a ZZ4 short block
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
I would leave the distributor out but aside form that I doubt it would make a difference. I think when I did mine I left the intake off, but I can't remember. The bolts for the trans SUCK to reach.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Hesperia California
I assembled the motor completely on the engine stand for my 89. I left the miniram, headers and distributor off. Adjusted roller rockers, put new water pump, pan etc. on. Once the engine was on the hoist, I put bellhousing on. Made life a lot easier. Motor set right in.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Sears/Craftsman has a nice wrench that makes this job much easier. It has an open end on one end, and a socket with a swivel on the other end. Lets you get at these bell housing bolts with a crazy angle! Worth every penny!! 9/16" if I remember right.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
I assembled the heads water pump harmonic ballancer engine mounts etc on the engine stand, leave the TPI inlet manifold runners of as they will interfere with the chain while lifting the engine you do not want to dent the runners.
The gearbox bell housing bolts are easy to fit with a few long socket extensions and flexible join, It is way easier to work on the engine checking the timing and fitting the distributor when on an engine stand.
Not to mention setting the valve lash.
The gearbox bell housing bolts are easy to fit with a few long socket extensions and flexible join, It is way easier to work on the engine checking the timing and fitting the distributor when on an engine stand.
Not to mention setting the valve lash.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 12
All good suggestions... I think the best for me would be to do heads/intake/valve lash/water pump/timing/balancer on stand, leave off the dizzy and intake runners. It is so pleasant to work on the engine on stand.
Also leaving the mounts off till the bell housing gets connected so I'll have some wiggle room. I know the mounts and bell housing will be lotsa fun.
I do have a universal 9/16" 1/4" drive socket and up top 4 feet of extensions so I'll figure a way. This may be the time to have the friends come over and help.
I did take the engine out as shown with the oil pan and pump off (since I was originally just doing a pump/screen replacement 'till I saw the bent piston) - hope I can raise it high enough going in with the 1/2 ton setting. Hate to ask
... but would anyone go with the 1/4 ton setting for more lift, I know the head/intake/block is probably around 575 lbs? This is a new harbor freight hoist with leveler.
I'd guess most just torque with 'feel' for those bolts that either have a long extension or funny angles of attack?
Also leaving the mounts off till the bell housing gets connected so I'll have some wiggle room. I know the mounts and bell housing will be lotsa fun.
I do have a universal 9/16" 1/4" drive socket and up top 4 feet of extensions so I'll figure a way. This may be the time to have the friends come over and help.
I did take the engine out as shown with the oil pan and pump off (since I was originally just doing a pump/screen replacement 'till I saw the bent piston) - hope I can raise it high enough going in with the 1/2 ton setting. Hate to ask
... but would anyone go with the 1/4 ton setting for more lift, I know the head/intake/block is probably around 575 lbs? This is a new harbor freight hoist with leveler.I'd guess most just torque with 'feel' for those bolts that either have a long extension or funny angles of attack?
