When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First, dies the 1984 corvette have the VATS system, I have been told both it does, and does not. My key does NOT have the chip in or on it.
Second, sometimes, the car will not crank, or even click when the key is turned to the start position. It has always happened after the car has been driven and is normal operating temp. The volts draw down, lights dim, etc...
but the car will not turn over. I can wait 15 to 20 minutes and it will usually turn over and start. I have cleaned the battery terminals, and the terminals on the starter, and tightened.
1984 had no VATS but it did have a Theft Deterrent System. If the theft box picked up any abnormal behaviour from the door locks or other sensors, it would cause the Starter Interrupt Relay to open the battery path to the starter solenoid. No solenoid operation=no starter operation.
Page/schematic 8A-86 1984 FSM Electrical Manual.
This was posted in another thread........is there a way to bypass the starter interrupt relay?
1984 had no VATS but it did have a Theft Deterrent System. If the theft box picked up any abnormal behaviour from the door locks or other sensors, it would cause the Starter Interrupt Relay to open the battery path to the starter solenoid. No solenoid operation=no starter operation.
Page/schematic 8A-86 1984 FSM Electrical Manual.
This was posted in another thread........is there a way to bypass the starter interrupt relay?
You should be able to short the A to D terminals on the relay to bypass the interupt circuit since the connection is normally closed.
Yes. First we need to identify the problem. Since you have to chip in your key, you don't have VATS.
Since your problem comes and goes, I would jack the car, attach a wire to the small/ignition switch wire on the starts solenoid, and run it to a safe (won't melt or short), easily accessible place. Then, carry a DVOM or a test light; when the symptom occurs, test for power at that wire. If you have power there, you know the entire ignition circuit, switch, P/N safety switch etc is all functioning. The problem is the starter motor, solenoid, or possibly large wire to the starter motor.
If no power there, then work your way backward; start at the PN/safety switch as its then back to the ignition switch.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jul 18, 2014 at 09:17 PM.
Tom, here's the schematic from the 84 electrical supplement.. If you check for power at the crank fuse, it will tell you if you need to get under the car to the starter or not..