ForceFedC4

1985 L98, Vortech Supercharged. To sum it up, I pressure washed the engine in preparation to remove the intake to polish all the TPI parts. After I washed it, and started the engine, I had a bad vacuum leak I could not find. Idle was high (2,200 rpms) could hear sound coming from top rear of engine, (brake booster is bad, but when plugged, the high idle, and hissing were still present.) So I replaced all the gaskets, vacuum lines sensors etc along with cleaning up the top of the engine. I didn't mark the distributor but I also didn't let it rotate when I removed it. I installed it exactly as it came out, and tightened it down where it was before I did any of this. Plugged in all sensors and wires, and the car has good fuel and oil pressure, but won't start only cranks. Any ideas would be helpful, could the timing be that far off from just removing the distributor that the car can't start? This was my first time doing this job, so sorry for the new guy type question. I searched, but people seem to have all sorts of issues. Here is a picture of what I was up to (work in progress, only getting started.)

Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

BOOT77

Do you know for sure you got spark? Double check you dist wires had a buddy replace his coil and module all because he forgot one.

blackozvet

do you still have a 9th injector in that setup ?

playsdixie

you do know that when you pull the distributor it turns a bit and you have to turn it back {the key in the bottom of the shaft} before re inserting....if you do have spark, i'd make sure the distributor is lined up with tdc... nice looking setup.....good luck...

ForceFedC4

I will have to get somebody to crank it while I check tonight, I have a clear distributor cap so I should be able to see the spark but I will check it at the ends of the wires also if it's getting that far.

I double checked the 2 plugs going to the distributor, and my wires to and from the MSD box (this car is MSD box, to MSD blaster coil, to adapter on top of HEI style cap. Makes things difficult, but it all looks to be connected at least.

ForceFedC4

Thank you, yes I turned it back like 1/4 turn, and when I reinserted it, it took a little wiggling but the key inside the bottom of the distributor shaft lined up with the slot inside the engine and then it seated all the way down.

I read that it could be 180 degrees off, but I guess the only way to know that is tonight if I have spark and the car won't fire, the timing would have to be off right?

BOOT77

You still need to reset the base timing with a timing light. Make sure you unhook the brown wire and disconnect battery after you set it. I forget what it's called, I'll let some1 else fill in that info.

ANTI VENOM

I'm assuming that you have NO SPARK. If you did it would be popping or farting or something. Even if it is 180 out you will get something. The only other option is no fuel. Spark seems more probable at this point due to the wash job.

playsdixie

I don't remember turning it back 1/4 turn but even if it was off, it would fire once and a while....

DanielRicany

If you have spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, then it has to be timing. Unless you touched something else.

ForceFedC4

still running 9th injector, although I used a different injector I had here .. hopefully it works.

The car doesn't even attempt to fire, no misfires, nothing so it does seem that I'm not getting spark like most of you have mentioned.

I ordered a timing light to set it once I started running, and indeed I found that single brown wire with black stripe near the brake booster. I saved a link for the timing procedure and have an OK understanding of how that will go.

I will report back tonight if there is spark

Oh, and the car ran and drove after washing the engine, just high idle .. no misfires that I could tell. I was "careful" not to spray electrical components, or air filters etc.

ForceFedC4

Alright, I have air, I have fuel 40+ psi, and I see there is spark (clear distributor cap) and tested the plug wire ends against the block, there is definitely spark. The firing order is wired correctly as far as I can tell, 18436572 starting with the forward most post, on the drivers side going clockwise, and nothing is unplugged.

I have aftermarket fuel injectors, with a new harness on there, color coded. I forget the colors for each cylinder though, I reinstalled them based on photos of the engine before I took it apart.

If I got those mixed up it wouldn't start I'm guessing? Doesn't even try to start just cranks all day,watching sparks go around in the distributor with no response from the engine.

blackozvet

If you have changed your injectors and harness, then that might be the problem ?

if your sure your timing is in the ballpark then spray some Aerostart or simliar into the plenum and see if it fires up, thats an easy way to tell if its a fuel/injector problem.

DanielRicany

Do you have fuel injector pulse?

ForceFedC4

Double checked the colors of the wires, all of the injectors are plugged in correctly, how do I check for injector pulse?

I will go spin the crank to line up the TDC mark and see if the rotor in the distributor is pointing to #1 cylinder to double check also.

cudamax

Disconnect the hat on the throttle body and give it a shot or 2 of anything laying around Carb/brake clean I agree Say its Fuel. It should at least pop/buck something when ur off a tooth

DanielRicany

You need a noid light or LED bulb. Connect the noid light to the injector connector, or stick the wires of the LED bulb into each pin inside the injector connector.

ForceFedC4

Alright, I found 2 problems, ready to laugh? I will admit them, because I'm new to V8 engines and this is kinda funny.

1.) The methanol injection was turned up to 100% spray with ignition on (i must have bumped the dial) and I am currently running 100% water in the tank. The car was trying to start while drinking a ton of water. I pulled the intake elbow off the throttle body to spray starting fluid in, and a cup full of water poured out.

So.. I changed the oil and turned off the methanol pump.

2.) Next, I sprayed the starting fluid in, and started it.. pumped the gas a couple times as it sputtered, and it started again and stayed running. I walk around to the front, and notice coolant pouring all over the place. I thought, oh crap must not have tightened the thermostat bolts enough? .. No.. actually I forgot to tighten the clamp on the outlet from the idle air control valve so coolant was pouring down the front of the engine. Fixed that with a screw driver

OK, so I got it running, I still hear this tremendous vacuum leak type sound from the TPI some place, and this is an entirely new TPI setup, from a different car.

I broke the wire off the EGR valve by accident, Could this be causing a high idle or whooshing sound around that general area?

I shut the car off, and it starts only with starting fluid, so I'm guessing the timing is off enough that it doesn't want to start on it's own, but once fired up it stays running at like 1600 rpms and rising a little. I didn't want to run it very long before I change the oil again.

Sorry if I'm confusing at all, thank you all for the help so far I really appreciate it.

New timing light arrived also, do I set base timing with advance (brown wire by brake booster) unplugged? Or just advanced timing with it unplugged?

ForceFedC4

Thank you for the LED tip, that is a good one!

ForceFedC4

andd im pretty sure i have my vacuum lines wrong. The EGR vacuum line goes where? the diagrams i see on the internet are vague at best? Also, the vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator goes where?