l98 injector probs
i have an 89 l98 with injector problems,i think i have one going down.
so i thought i would replace all of them.
any pointers as to what are the best ones to get without to much messing around with programming ect. .
your feed back would be much appreciated.
thanks stu.
http://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com/
Jon's phone number should be on that site.
FIC is the way to go..They also have a number of videos on the site showing how to check injectors , and install injectors.It's not a hard job, just takes a while to do....Here is a video forum member Calderone made on changing injectors...
Here are the instructions for doing an injector change..This is the quickest method I have found and it's the method I use...WW
Here is what I did to install new injectors:
1. Remove one battery connection and relieve the pressure in the fuel system by pressing the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Note you are releasing gasoline that can cause odor and fire!!!
2. Remove the wire cables to the butterfly valve on the throttle body, remove the cables from the bracket on the side of the plenum and lay aside the cables.
3. While on that side, remove the vacuum line on the rear and bottom of the plenum. Use a flare wrench so that you do not "booger up" the 5/8 nut.
4. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (driver side) and note what length bolt goes where.
5. Go to the other side of the engine and disconnect the IAC, TPS and MAF connections.
6. Remove the flexible hose from the air filter to the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the two water lines to the TB and consider a TB doing a bypass! This project will “clean up a very busy” area of the motor and will cost you less than $5 for a professional looking job!
8. Disconnect the various vacuum lines on that side of the plenum, as there are 4 to 5 as I recall. Note there is one vacuum line under the plenum (front, left hand side) and this one is easy to miss!
9. Remove the throttle body and place on a secure surface.
10. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (passenger side) and note any difference in length of screws.
11. At this point make sure all runner bolts (both sides) are removed and all connections to plenum are disconnected. Using a rubber or soft face hammer, slightly tap "upwards" under the plenum and the plenum will “just” come loose from the runners. (Do not loosen or remove the lower runner bolts.) Lift up and remove the plenum. Place this on a secure surface. If you drop it, you will cry real tears!!!
12. Remove the two fuel lines (right front side of engine) that go to and from the fuel rail assembly. Use a flare wrench for this removal.
13. Remove the two steel fuel lines (crossways to engine top) in front and rear of the fuel rail assembly. Note that a small Torx screw secures a bracket (that holds that end of the line) on each fuel rail. The rear line (and brackets) is a little difficult due to close space, but is easy to remove. Here you will have to use the ¼ Torx bit placed in the closed end of the ¼ inch combination wrench to remove the Torx screws. See the note on “special” tools at the beginning of this note!
14. Remove the EGR valve and the two bolts are in close quarters. I used a 7/16 inch combination wrench (use open end of wrench and place wrench in a vertical position) on the EGR hex bolts with a screwdriver in the closed end as a lever, useful for this “tight area”.
15. The passenger side injector rail assembly is easiest to remove. While standing on one side of the car (this is made easier by removing the two front wheels), grab the front of the rail with one hand and the back of the rail with the other hand. Rock the rail assembly side to side while gently pulling upwards. Be careful as the rail assembly will suddenly turn loose and you can damage the runner and some of your tender skin!! After the four injectors break loose, rotate the top of the fuel rail assembly toward the center of the engine and raise it upwards. That injector rail assembly will come out as one piece.
16. The other rail is removed the same way but required a special twist to get it out. Just work with it, have a cold beer and you can get it out.
17. Assembly is just the opposite sequence.
Do yourself a favor and use NEW "O" rings on the fuel rail lines and injectors, as they are cheap compared to another teardown! Hint: lubricate all the "O" rings with light oil for ease of re-assembly.
Last edited by WW7; Jul 22, 2014 at 06:06 AM.













