96 Collectors edition, with LT1 and auto trans

What is the optimum shift point for the best 1/4 mile E.T.

What is the optimum shift point for the best 1/8 mile E.T.


The question are getting harder.

Thank you all for your input. Pr. Putz

 

For the fastest times when drag racing, it best to upshift when there is more horsepower - hence greater acceleration - in the next higher gear than in the current gear.

For me and the engines I assembled, that was usually about 5-8% above the horsepower peak but it depends just how fast the power drops off after it peaks. If your engine has a broad horsepower curve after the max horsepower RPM – like almost flat – then you could wind a little tighter after max power. If you have a “peaky” engine and the power drops off very rapidly after the RPM at which max power is achieved, then it's best to not wind so much past the point of max power.

Also, the closer the gear ratios, the less you have to wind beyond the power peak. For gear ratios that have a little more spread between them, you will have to rev a little more beyond the max power peak. It’s all about maximizing the area under the horsepower curve – from one gear to another.

For our cars that have max power at about 4500 rpm, I’d shift it at about 5000, not any more than that. After 5000, my stock motor doesn’t have much going for it – it’s all done! Ha!.

Just what I’d do -

 

With the 3.06 1st gear in the trans I'd be buzzing her higher past it's motor peak to make up for the major spread/drop of the 2nd's 1.63 because I'd want to recover more Quickly from the bog from the RPM Drop and keep it closer to it's motor's power-line when it's starting to buz up in 2nd. 2nd on those I think really pull hard
So I'd try for shifting at starting at 5500 rpm and hold 2nd as long as I could and then go for 5600 as long as fuel cut off is altered and check ur times after a kool off

 

cudamax - I agree - -

 

But here is a old article on a slightly modded TPI with stock 3.07's in the pig and a 2000 stall shifting just a bit lower and being faster.


How u lanuch is going to depend on ur coordination of reaction on the tree and the right rpm for ur combo and track conditions shown by ur 60 ft times and if u can do exactly the same thing at the same time with the tree and vary different rpm launches and Damn this is like the 3rd time I've used this photo of an article for different posts

 

It's called "maximize the area under the power curve".
You know the gear ratios and you know the power curve so a little math will show the best shift point for each gear change.

 

And is anyone, anyone at all Running down the track anymore with Extended front shocks that have had a hole drilled into them to drain all the oil out of them with the sway bar ends disconnected? for some from end lift. Makes a big difference on 60 ft times and u can launch a lot harder

 

I was running a 2,000rpm TC, with GY Eagles at 30psi & 2.59 gears and could pull low 1.8s, with stock suspension. But I had to "2-step" the launch to avoid lighting 'em up even on a tight track.

 

I have had best results in Drive, trying to short shift or rev higher gave me slower times to those in Drive?!?

Having a helmet on desensitizes and distances your senses too much from what is going on (with street exhaust), you can have a run from traffic lights on the street can listen and feel where to shift a lot better than on a 1/4 mile race track with a helmet on? Hence Drive works best for me.

I have some really good tires now that grip like glue for fantastic hook ups launching the vette like its been shot out of a canon.

 

If you want to raise the shift points pop the governor and shave a little metal from the two small weights, taking it slowly till you hit the points desired.

 

If the car is stock put it in (D)rive and let the PCM do the work.

Also, your 96 has an electronic controlled tranmission. You can change shift points by reprogramming the PCM.

 

90/10 drag shocks here.

 

Kool Real Kool Yee-Ha Did u have to work a long time on ur Bump-Sterr? Was it hard to get zero toe change throught its travel all the way up and all the way down?

 

Ya up in the 140's

 

96 vette Auto trans, how do you reprogram the shift point in the pcm???

 

^^^ You can send your PCM to a professional tuner, or do it yourself with LT1 Edit or Jet Dynamic Spectrum Tuner.

 

383vett - - Hey most impressive launch bud!

 

. Thanks, I've got a stock front suspension except for the shocks and sway bar delete.

thanks Jake

 

Kool Was wondering if u ever had to modify the front end for Zero toe change through out its travel because any time u lift the front wheels when you come back down ur wheels have to be completely straight or you'll hit the wall or go into the other lane. Used to have to do that on older mopars on an front end rack and raise it an inch at a time all the way up until the tires came off the rack and into the air and check/make it for no toe change. All to make sure it lands perfect and goes straight. Its a real pain in the *** and hard to do

 

Its nice to see someone's disconnecting sway bars and running the loose front shocks for lift It helps out a lot