phat87

I'm about to replace my alternator. The main red wire off the back of the alternator is quite blackened from age and heat at the crimped connection.

My guess is if the terminal is ugly, probably the whole wire is ugly. What's involved in running a new red wire?

Any ideas.

Thanks

WVZR-1

That's a good idea and while doing it you might increase the wire gage by one. Make sure both ends are done with quality correct ring terminals crimped and soldered. Don't know the year but it likely goes to the battery jump block and it needs a fusible link there. OE wire is 8 metric (8-AWG) so I'd consider 6-AWG and the proper fusible link. Do the fusible link with a crimp and solder clip. See the FSM for an image of a crimp & solder clip. NAPA has correct fusible links and terminals you'd need. Heat-shrink everything.

HC96LT4

As stated, not a difficult upgrade.
Google "big 3" for more ideas

phat87

I've been poking around. Followed the wire along the top side of the valve cover then it falls off the edge of the earth down behind the engine. Can't see a GD thing.

I'm going to pull the left front wheel, lower fender and the battery. Maybe I'll be able to get in closer.

Cliff Harris

Be aware that there are fusible links in that wire at the "jump start" block end.

Just replacing it with a big honkin' wire might not be the best choice.

WVZR-1

You'll notice I mentioned proper fusible link when I mentioned the +1 for the wire.

OP - yes the fender will need to be removed

phat87

I just caught sight id several fusible link down under the "jump start box" I believe you kids called it.

It tried Lordco to get a F.L. but they seem to think it is a dealer item. I'll find one!

Thanks for the replies.

WVZR-1

You can make your own from bulk fusible link on a spool but NAPA I know does singular links and there are others that do for sure. You can even buy some with the ring terminal already attached.

I'm not familiar with LORDCO so I can't help there but it's NOT a dealer item.

If you're doing 6AWG instead of the 8AWG you want a 10GA FL, if you're doing 8AWG wire you want a 12GA FL. FL's are explained very well here and that may prepare you for more effective shopping:

http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml

I don't buy from White but their information is excellent. A Ford dealer might have links with rings already attached to them on the shelf. Ford went through links like crazy for some reason, I believe it might have had something to do with their older remote solenoid usage for starter motors.

jake corvette

I agree with WVZR - crimp then solder everything - then use heat shrink. Use the good heat shrink, some of the stuff they sell at discount stores is pretty light duty. Some heat shrink has a sealer on the inside - it works quite well in preventing moisture and other contaminants from getting in.

89onlyZ51

Skip the automotive stores and het wire/terminals/heat shrink from a marine store. A few bucks more, but the quality is way way better.

phat87

Thanks 89, that's a great idea.

qwiketz

[QUOTE=WVZR-1;1587432915] Don't know the year but it likely goes to the battery jump block and it needs a fusible link there. OE wire is 8 metric (8-AWG) so I'd consider 6-AWG and the proper fusible link. \QUOTE]

when you say jump block, do you mean that thing behind the battery that all of the power wires go to? It looks like a distribution block? If not, where is the jump block located?

I'm replacing my alternator today and might as well replace this wire as well.

Good info guys.

WVZR-1

Yes behind the battery and I believe it's usually referred to as JUMP START JUNCTION BLOCK in early FSM's. You've got the correct idea though and I believe it might be wise. Did you try to replace only the post that I believe you busted first or you're just doing the alternator?

qwiketz

I did not replace the post on the alternator. Actually one of my buddies has an extra off his car sitting in his garage that I'm driving over to pickup in a few minutes. He said it appears to be pretty new so I thought I'd give that a try since it sounds pretty easy to install. I will have to compare the pulley sizes however.

Thanks for the clarification. I'm going to hunt down that fusible link from the battery to that jump start block later today as well. I may replace the pos cable too but I need to see if it's available locally.