ZF6 Reverse Shifter Lockout - Broken. Help
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Alexandria VA
ZF6 Reverse Shifter Lockout - Broken. Help
Item #25 in the picture above. Is it possible to just pull the whole shifter assy and remove it entirely so I can get reverse? Not worried about needing it locked out; in a race car that will never see sixth.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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You've actually broken the rod and not the lift ring or the set screw hasn't fallen out? I don't know that I've ever seen that failure. To remove the detent from the shifter operation on an early transmission gets involved. I might have an early shifter. I'd need to look.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 19,691
Likes: 322
From: Alexandria VA
You've actually broken the rod and not the lift ring or the set screw hasn't fallen out? I don't know that I've ever seen that failure. To remove the detent from the shifter operation on an early transmission gets involved. I might have an early shifter. I'd need to look.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
In your case (LeMons racer) I believe you could just remove the block
#27 in your image and the compression spring #30 and you would have a "crash-thru" for reverse. I have a shifter here without the rod and the block and spring were very easy to remove. The spring sits in a very shallow recess on the block, and the rod floats in a small bored hole on the top of the block. With the rod out I believe you should have no trouble. That I believe would accomplish what's accomplished with the Hurst/B&M when used with the early cars.
The actual detent is in the trans but .....................
Take a small pocket screwdriver or knife blade and while pushing down with a welding rod or whatever then just insert the blade into the compression spring and remove the block.
Good luck!
#27 in your image and the compression spring #30 and you would have a "crash-thru" for reverse. I have a shifter here without the rod and the block and spring were very easy to remove. The spring sits in a very shallow recess on the block, and the rod floats in a small bored hole on the top of the block. With the rod out I believe you should have no trouble. That I believe would accomplish what's accomplished with the Hurst/B&M when used with the early cars.
The actual detent is in the trans but .....................
Take a small pocket screwdriver or knife blade and while pushing down with a welding rod or whatever then just insert the blade into the compression spring and remove the block.
Good luck!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jul 28, 2014 at 12:21 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
I edited my post but it didn't seem to stick so here:
The screw which you don't see in your image in that block locks the rod in the block. Perhaps that screw has just backed off and you could reinstall the rod and move on. If the bottom of your rod has a clean smaller diameter on the bottom I'd guess that's what's happened! Back out the screw and try to reinstall the rod before removing the block if you wanted.
The screw which you don't see in your image in that block locks the rod in the block. Perhaps that screw has just backed off and you could reinstall the rod and move on. If the bottom of your rod has a clean smaller diameter on the bottom I'd guess that's what's happened! Back out the screw and try to reinstall the rod before removing the block if you wanted.
Thanks WV! it sheared where it goes into the block :/
