84 Coolant temp sensor replacement question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 521
Likes: 23
From: Lititz PA
84 Coolant temp sensor replacement question
Replacing a broken (literally, the end is broken off) coolant temp sensor on the passenger side of the block in a few days. I don't want to have to drain a significant amount of coolant out the engine, and want it to be as tidy of an install as possible, so just a few questions...
I have a fairly steep driveway leading from the street to my garage, and I could park the Vette horizontally in the driveway, so that the driver's side cylinders are down hill and the passenger side is uphill... Thinking this will help prevent most of the coolant leakage. What is the easiest way to drain some of the coolant, or should I even have to drain any, and if so, how much? Has anyone has changed one of these, and do I need to use any type of sealant or Teflon tape, or should it just screw in?
Thanks in advance for your replies!
I have a fairly steep driveway leading from the street to my garage, and I could park the Vette horizontally in the driveway, so that the driver's side cylinders are down hill and the passenger side is uphill... Thinking this will help prevent most of the coolant leakage. What is the easiest way to drain some of the coolant, or should I even have to drain any, and if so, how much? Has anyone has changed one of these, and do I need to use any type of sealant or Teflon tape, or should it just screw in?
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I don't think it matters how you orient the car. Coolant is going to gush out anyway. The main thing is to do it when the coolant is cold so it isn't under pressure. Keep the cap on the radiator so it makes a vacuum in the cooling system.
I would unscrew the old one and hold it in position to minimize the amount of coolant that leaks out and then quickly swap in the new one. You will lose a minimal amount of coolant that way.
I always use Aviation Permatex on anything that goes into coolant passages. I had a bad experience (stripped threads in a block) with teflon tape years ago and I never use it.
I would unscrew the old one and hold it in position to minimize the amount of coolant that leaks out and then quickly swap in the new one. You will lose a minimal amount of coolant that way.
I always use Aviation Permatex on anything that goes into coolant passages. I had a bad experience (stripped threads in a block) with teflon tape years ago and I never use it.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 328
Likes: 2
From: Mesa AZ
Your new coolant sensor should come with teflon tape already attached so all you have to do is replace the sensor and re-hook the wire. I just did mine (88 L-98) about a month ago. I don't know about Cliff's situation, but that's what worked for me. Gotta have small and nimble hands though. On mine there wasn't much room.
Tommy
Tommy
Racer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 372
Likes: 23
From: Harper Woods MI
On an '84 passenger side that is cooling fan temp switch. It's a button style sensor.
Best way is like Cliff Harris stated... switch them out quickly to avoid a large amount of coolant loss.
Good luck.
Best way is like Cliff Harris stated... switch them out quickly to avoid a large amount of coolant loss.
Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 341
Likes: 2
I did the one in the front of the intake manifold. I had everything ready within arms reach and then plugged the hole with my finger. Then quickly made the swap from finder to sensor. Lost very little coolant and did the job in about 1 minute, Car was cold of course.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 521
Likes: 23
From: Lititz PA
I decided to just do in the garage, and put a plastic painters drip cloth under the car to catch any coolant. Took about 30 minutes for the swap, start to finish. I used Teflon tape, no issues.
Made the 20 minute drive to work today, and even through red lights, etc., the car barely got over 200 degrees. I sat in the parking lot and let it idle when I got to work, and after a few minutes it hit 225, and like magic, the fans came on. Sweet sound!! Even better, the car ran PERFECTLY the entire drive. Since the sensor broke, it would randomly idle up and down, between 600 and 1200 rpms, and the check engine light would come on and off intermittently. I will know more after putting some miles on it, but it appears that all is well now.
Made the 20 minute drive to work today, and even through red lights, etc., the car barely got over 200 degrees. I sat in the parking lot and let it idle when I got to work, and after a few minutes it hit 225, and like magic, the fans came on. Sweet sound!! Even better, the car ran PERFECTLY the entire drive. Since the sensor broke, it would randomly idle up and down, between 600 and 1200 rpms, and the check engine light would come on and off intermittently. I will know more after putting some miles on it, but it appears that all is well now.
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